Is there a way to turn off the blue aux LEDs? It doesn’t look like it’s covered in the basic UI diagram but I understand there are lots of ‘varsity’ features buried in there. Thanks!
Is there a way to turn off the blue aux LEDs? It doesn’t look like it’s covered in the basic UI diagram but I understand there are lots of ‘varsity’ features buried in there. Thanks!
Depends on when it was made.
Try 7 clicks from off. It might work, or it might not. Depends on how it was wired internally.
I noticed the ROT66 is no longer available in 219B. Is it officially discontinued? If so, it looks like the E07 is the final 219B light from Fireflies.
I noticed the ROT66 is no longer available in 219B. Is it officially discontinued? If so, it looks like the E07 is the final 219B light from Fireflies.
…if so, lack of the famous emitter being used by FF in a compact EDC triple, or traditional single with reflector, will be lamentable.
Any tips on accessing the potentiometer for the aux LEDs? Do I unscrew the bezel or does the board come out the back? I tried to unscrew the bezel and it was TIGHT, didn’t get anywhere (including using a strap wrench). I ordered the unglued version so I was anticipating that it would be easier to take off. Thanks in advance.
Glad I got the ROT66 version with no auxiliary leds. Seems like they have just complicated things.
Well that all depends. I got the ROT 66 without, and just got the PL47 with, and I much prefer the with. Once you understand the basic control it's simple. The brightness though is a personal pref, so without access you either live with the brightness it came with, or turn it OFF (7 clicks to blink, then 7 clicks again to OFF).
Glad I got the ROT66 version with no auxiliary leds. Seems like they have just complicated things.
Well that all depends. I got the ROT 66 without, and just got the PL47 with, and I much prefer the with. Once you understand the basic control it’s simple. The brightness though is a personal pref, so without access you either live with the brightness it came with, or turn it OFF (7 clicks to blink, then 7 clicks again to OFF).
Would just rather not have them. Serves no purpose for me personally. Although, I have an E07 coming, so I won’t have a choice..
Glad I got the ROT66 version with no auxiliary leds. Seems like they have just complicated things.
Well that all depends. I got the ROT 66 without, and just got the PL47 with, and I much prefer the with. Once you understand the basic control it’s simple. The brightness though is a personal pref, so without access you either live with the brightness it came with, or turn it OFF (7 clicks to blink, then 7 clicks again to OFF).
Would just rather not have them. Serves no purpose for me personally. Although, I have an E07 coming, so I won’t have a choice..
You can turn them off with 7 clicks.
I don’t get why anyone buys a ROT66, PL47, E07, D4S, if not for the AUXLEDs and lit switches. Are there not better choices if you are anti-glow anything?
Glad I got the ROT66 version with no auxiliary leds. Seems like they have just complicated things.
Well that all depends. I got the ROT 66 without, and just got the PL47 with, and I much prefer the with. Once you understand the basic control it’s simple. The brightness though is a personal pref, so without access you either live with the brightness it came with, or turn it OFF (7 clicks to blink, then 7 clicks again to OFF).
Would just rather not have them. Serves no purpose for me personally. Although, I have an E07 coming, so I won’t have a choice..
You can turn them off with 7 clicks.
I don’t get why anyone buys a ROT66, PL47, E07, D4S, if not for the AUXLEDs and lit switches. Are there not better choices if you are anti-glow anything?
Because the original ROT66 219b didn’t come with aux leds. Bought it to use as a flashlight, not a conversation piece. And a wonderful flashlight it is.
Glad I got the ROT66 version with no auxiliary leds. Seems like they have just complicated things.
Well that all depends. I got the ROT 66 without, and just got the PL47 with, and I much prefer the with. Once you understand the basic control it’s simple. The brightness though is a personal pref, so without access you either live with the brightness it came with, or turn it OFF (7 clicks to blink, then 7 clicks again to OFF).
Would just rather not have them. Serves no purpose for me personally. Although, I have an E07 coming, so I won’t have a choice..
You can turn them off with 7 clicks.
I don’t get why anyone buys a ROT66, PL47, E07, D4S, if not for the AUXLEDs and lit switches. Are there not better choices if you are anti-glow anything?
Because the original ROT66 219b didn’t come with aux leds. Bought it to use as a flashlight, not a conversation piece. And a wonderful flashlight it is.
I know they didn’t for a brief, initial minute, but they all do now. I find a good deal of practicality in them as well, it’s good they can be turned off for you people that do not.
It's the bling factor... No literally it blings... What else would you call it?
My PL47 aux leds don't seem so bright in room light, but in the dark, it's a significant glow - last night seemed a little too bright for the nightstand pointing towards me.
I just received my xpl hi ROT66 and I have noticed that when I put it on Turbo there is flickering it also doesn’t seem as bright as I thought it would be. I do not have it in muggle mode since I learned about that with my PL47. Has anyone had this happen to their Light and if so is there anything I can do to fix it? That means am I doing something wrong or is there a fix? All help is appreciated.
I just received my xpl hi ROT66 and I have noticed that when I put it on Turbo there is flickering it also doesn’t seem as bright as I thought it would be. I do not have it in muggle mode since I learned about that with my PL47. Has anyone had this happen to their Light and if so is there anything I can do to fix it? That means am I doing something wrong or is there a fix? All help is appreciated.
It should not flicker. On turbo it should be full power. Does it flicker on slightly less than full power or only on turbo?
What batteries do you have in it? Are they unprotected?
Make sure the carrier screws are tight.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Using flat top 30q from fireflies and yes when I ramp up to the max lower mode it flickers a little then too
Hmmm, sounds tricky. It could be a fault in the driver, but I would check all the usual things first. Loosen and retightened the driver retaining ring – if possible. (Is it glued?) Clean the battery tube ends and where it contacts the retaining ring. Clean the spring contacts. Try flipping the battery tube around. Tighten the battery tube first, then tighten the rear cap 2nd. Clean your carrier springs and contacts. Make sure your carrier screws are snug and not loose.
I think that’s about all the average person can do. If it still flickers the problem might with the driver.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Thanks JasonWW. Followed your advice still a little flickering on top ramp level and turbo. I am going to swap out batteries and try that when I get home from work. Doing my own crude light comparison my XPL Hi cool version does not appear as bright as my Sofirn Q8 although the ROT66 is rated at twice the lumen output.
I found the screws were a bit loose in my ROT66 carrier, and the driver retaining ring was a bit loose as well. The way the carrier works is tightening down the end cap forces the ground ring on the carrier to make contact to the driver retaining ring, so the driver spring must compress a fair amount. Not sure how much you can do, but you can do a one cell test without the carrier using just one cell and a decent wires. Take off the battery tube, press down on the cell on the driver spring, then hold the wire to the neg. end of the cell to the driver retaining ring, and if you got good contact, see if you still have the problem.
Thank you for the help Newlumen and Tom E. I will follow your recommendations once I am home from work. I still love the look and feel of the ROT66 and my PL47 and when the E07 arrives next week sometime I am sure I will love that one too. Like the Emisar lights, these lights are unique and great looking lights. They also do amazing things in such compact designs.
so I recieved my ROT66 SST20 6500K, everything is perfect, the packaging, the driver, the UI and the leds, however I noticed mine has 2 problems.
01. the screws in the battery carrier keep getting lose on its own when screwing off and on the tail cap! (I permanently fixed this problem by applying super glue to all the screws and poles)
02. When screwing the tail cap on or off, the battery carrier will rub on the driver ring causing metal dust to come out, I tried fixing this problem by sanding down smooth on both the driver ring and the battery carrier but once i tighten or losen the tail cap the driver ring and carrier scratch and metal dust comes out all over again.
I had issues with my ROT66 and some of my fellow BLF members were quick to offer assistance . Unfortunately there is an issue with the driver itself. That being said Jack from Fireflies quickly has handled the issue and that kind of customer service is rare nowadays especially considering how busy he must be getting all the orders out. Thanks Jack. Can’t wait to see what your company comes out with next ,Great Job.
I had issues with my ROT66 and some of my fellow BLF members were quick to offer assistance . Unfortunately there is an issue with the driver itself. That being said Jack from Fireflies quickly has handled the issue and that kind of customer service is rare nowadays especially considering how busy he must be getting all the orders out. Thanks Jack. Can’t wait to see what your company comes out with next ,Great Job.
Nothing is wrong with my driver, works flawlessly, only problem i have is carrier and driver ring scratching together with metal dust coming out
I had issues with my ROT66 and some of my fellow BLF members were quick to offer assistance . Unfortunately there is an issue with the driver itself. That being said Jack from Fireflies quickly has handled the issue and that kind of customer service is rare nowadays especially considering how busy he must be getting all the orders out. Thanks Jack. Can’t wait to see what your company comes out with next ,Great Job.
Nothing is wrong with my driver, works flawlessly, only problem i have is carrier and driver ring scratching together with metal dust coming out
so someone slipped off during assembly and you got a deep scratch in it and now the carrier bites into it?
so someone slipped off during assembly and you got a deep scratch in it and now the carrier bites into it?
sounds like a job for some sand paper
I don’t think there was any mention of a scratch.
Post 836, he already tried sanding it smooth.
Maybe some dielectric grease would prevent grinding?
After sanding both driver ring and carrier, I rub my fingers on the surfaces and its as smooth as a baby’s bottom, then just after a couple screwing off and on the tail cap, the surfaces on both driver ring and carrier is rough again, i don’t understand why…
Is there a way to turn off the blue aux LEDs? It doesn’t look like it’s covered in the basic UI diagram but I understand there are lots of ‘varsity’ features buried in there. Thanks!
Depends on when it was made.
Try 7 clicks from off. It might work, or it might not. Depends on how it was wired internally.
(or, in lockout mode, try 3 clicks)
I noticed the ROT66 is no longer available in 219B. Is it officially discontinued? If so, it looks like the E07 is the final 219B light from Fireflies.
…if so, lack of the famous emitter being used by FF in a compact EDC triple, or traditional single with reflector, will be lamentable.
Any tips on accessing the potentiometer for the aux LEDs? Do I unscrew the bezel or does the board come out the back? I tried to unscrew the bezel and it was TIGHT, didn’t get anywhere (including using a strap wrench). I ordered the unglued version so I was anticipating that it would be easier to take off. Thanks in advance.
Glad I got the ROT66 version with no auxiliary leds. Seems like they have just complicated things.
Well that all depends. I got the ROT 66 without, and just got the PL47 with, and I much prefer the with. Once you understand the basic control it's simple. The brightness though is a personal pref, so without access you either live with the brightness it came with, or turn it OFF (7 clicks to blink, then 7 clicks again to OFF).
Gotta take the bezel off to access that. If it’s stuck, heat might help.
Would just rather not have them. Serves no purpose for me personally. Although, I have an E07 coming, so I won’t have a choice..
You can turn them off with 7 clicks.
I don’t get why anyone buys a ROT66, PL47, E07, D4S, if not for the AUX LEDs and lit switches. Are there not better choices if you are anti-glow anything?
Nokoff..still Made in China 山寨主義
Because the original ROT66 219b didn’t come with aux leds. Bought it to use as a flashlight, not a conversation piece. And a wonderful flashlight it is.
I know they didn’t for a brief, initial minute, but they all do now. I find a good deal of practicality in them as well, it’s good they can be turned off for you people that do not.
Nokoff..still Made in China 山寨主義
It's the bling factor... No literally it blings... What else would you call it?
My PL47 aux leds don't seem so bright in room light, but in the dark, it's a significant glow - last night seemed a little too bright for the nightstand pointing towards me.
I just received my xpl hi ROT66 and I have noticed that when I put it on Turbo there is flickering it also doesn’t seem as bright as I thought it would be. I do not have it in muggle mode since I learned about that with my PL47. Has anyone had this happen to their Light and if so is there anything I can do to fix it? That means am I doing something wrong or is there a fix? All help is appreciated.
I have XP-L Hi ROT66 and don’t notice flickering and seems as expected lumens on turbo. Using Samsung 30Qs.
I like aux LEDs but tried Toykeeper suggestions above and can’t turn em off.
You also have an Anduril version?
Like TK said, you might have one that is not controlled by the mcu. I’m guessing some were wired to the MCU and some where not.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
It should not flicker. On turbo it should be full power. Does it flicker on slightly less than full power or only on turbo?
What batteries do you have in it? Are they unprotected?
Make sure the carrier screws are tight.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Using flat top 30q from fireflies and yes when I ramp up to the max lower mode it flickers a little then too
Hmmm, sounds tricky. It could be a fault in the driver, but I would check all the usual things first. Loosen and retightened the driver retaining ring – if possible. (Is it glued?) Clean the battery tube ends and where it contacts the retaining ring. Clean the spring contacts. Try flipping the battery tube around. Tighten the battery tube first, then tighten the rear cap 2nd. Clean your carrier springs and contacts. Make sure your carrier screws are snug and not loose.
I think that’s about all the average person can do. If it still flickers the problem might with the driver.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Thanks JasonWW. Followed your advice still a little flickering on top ramp level and turbo. I am going to swap out batteries and try that when I get home from work. Doing my own crude light comparison my XPL Hi cool version does not appear as bright as my Sofirn Q8 although the ROT66 is rated at twice the lumen output.
Rot66 xpl hi measured 7050 lumen with my Texas ace lumen tube. ( using Sony vtc5a).
If you are not getting 6500-7000 , then something is wrong with your light..
I would clean the carrier, and all the connection just to make sure..
I found the screws were a bit loose in my ROT66 carrier, and the driver retaining ring was a bit loose as well. The way the carrier works is tightening down the end cap forces the ground ring on the carrier to make contact to the driver retaining ring, so the driver spring must compress a fair amount. Not sure how much you can do, but you can do a one cell test without the carrier using just one cell and a decent wires. Take off the battery tube, press down on the cell on the driver spring, then hold the wire to the neg. end of the cell to the driver retaining ring, and if you got good contact, see if you still have the problem.
Thank you for the help Newlumen and Tom E. I will follow your recommendations once I am home from work. I still love the look and feel of the ROT66 and my PL47 and when the E07 arrives next week sometime I am sure I will love that one too. Like the Emisar lights, these lights are unique and great looking lights. They also do amazing things in such compact designs.
so I recieved my ROT66 SST20 6500K, everything is perfect, the packaging, the driver, the UI and the leds, however I noticed mine has 2 problems.
01. the screws in the battery carrier keep getting lose on its own when screwing off and on the tail cap! (I permanently fixed this problem by applying super glue to all the screws and poles)
02. When screwing the tail cap on or off, the battery carrier will rub on the driver ring causing metal dust to come out, I tried fixing this problem by sanding down smooth on both the driver ring and the battery carrier but once i tighten or losen the tail cap the driver ring and carrier scratch and metal dust comes out all over again.
Does anyone else have this experience?
I had issues with my ROT66 and some of my fellow BLF members were quick to offer assistance . Unfortunately there is an issue with the driver itself. That being said Jack from Fireflies quickly has handled the issue and that kind of customer service is rare nowadays especially considering how busy he must be getting all the orders out. Thanks Jack. Can’t wait to see what your company comes out with next ,Great Job.
Nothing is wrong with my driver, works flawlessly, only problem i have is carrier and driver ring scratching together with metal dust coming out
so someone slipped off during assembly and you got a deep scratch in it and now the carrier bites into it?
sounds like a job for some sand paper
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
I don’t think there was any mention of a scratch.
Post 836, he already tried sanding it smooth.
Maybe some dielectric grease would prevent grinding?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
After sanding both driver ring and carrier, I rub my fingers on the surfaces and its as smooth as a baby’s bottom, then just after a couple screwing off and on the tail cap, the surfaces on both driver ring and carrier is rough again, i don’t understand why…
Pages