I put one in an Eagle Eye X6 and then cut out a donut shaped piece of DC Fix to go on the lens. It gets rid of the hole in the beam but it’s still a bit of a messy shape. The tint across the whole beam is fine though it’s just the shape that bothers me.
DC Fix over the entire lens obviously fixes all of this but in my opinion kills too much throw to make this host appealing. Dont use SMO anything for this LED. Even smooth TIRs are not acceptable typically.
I have it in a Eagle Eye X7 with DC Fix too.
A little too cold, but its a nice beam and throw without donut hole.
With fresh blue Liitokala batteries I get 2800 lumen at the start.
Did you use DC Fix across the entire lens or just the outside?
C8 OP reflector should give smooth beam:
I bought these,but still didn't try them.
Do you happen to have an e-switch version of the LD-4 driver?
No.
…but you’re still planning on one, right? :laughing:
In 2019 I will have more free time for drivers development.
That’s good to hear. I hope to see an e-switch version of an already established design like the LD-4.
Seconded, different diameters would be a plus also (22mm especially.)
Ah yes that would be so great! 
+1 on both 
+2 but I expressed this several pages ago as well
Neven, you would probably sell a lot of e-switch versions if you had them.
Then people can finally put decent drivers in their e-switch lights, like Astrolux S42 and 43 and the Emisars.
I’ll second that. I have an Emisar S42 that could use a good driver.
Me too. (i think you mean Astrolux)
And my Convoy / Sofirn C8 triple host is waiting for something like this too.
I also have a Skilhunt H03 with a driver that behaves like it will die soon…
As always, thank you for your fast delivery and good packaging.
But a word of caution for everyone buying a luxeon MZ: This LED does not like solvents / cleaning.
I managed to turn mine into a beautiful blue by trying to clean the flux from soldering: https://i.imgur.com/rszOsls.jpg
Also, are there tips and tricks how to solder the MosDTP + LD-4B driver in a host with an integrated shelf like the Convoy M1?
I had huge problems soldering the MCPCB inside the head and even when I managed to solder everything, the solderjoints at + and - were to big and were shorting to the reflector.
My approach was a small piece of wire which lifted the MCPCB enough so it was possible to limit heat transfer to the head.
Would another aproach like soldering the MCPCB first, inserting it and then soldering everything to the driver be a better idea?
What did you use for removing the flux?
It should withstand alcohol.
As for soldering very thermally conductive LED boards, you just need a powerful soldering iron, which can heat up a small area really fast.
That means a pointed solder tip is not what you want.
A chisel bit is much better.
When it’s really difficult i get my 100 Watt iron with a big chisel bit out.
Then the solder pads of the LED board have no other choice but to get hot. 
First tin both parts you want to solder, of course.
Add some flux grease too.
It was this “Leiterplattenreiniger” from a german company: Kontakt Chemie KONTAKT LR 84009-AA Leiterplattenreiniger 200 ml kaufen
The brush probably also did it’s part…
Until now, my 75W Hakko 888D did a good job. But I didn’t increase the temperature.
I’m using a BC-Style Tip
Did that. Tinned the pad and then added extra flux.
But back to my last question: Which one would you suggest:
a) Solder wires to driver; insert into head; cut to length, strip and tin; add thermal paste; insert MCPCB into head with a spacer; solder wires to MCPCB
b) Solder wires to MCPCB; add thermal paste; insert into head; cut to length, strip and tin; solder wires to driver, insert driver and wire-slack into the head and fix
Or something different?
