Sofirn SP36, impressions of a sample

Dunno off hand, possibility. Small voltage results is significant results for amps.

ahh i see. okay i think its better to just remove the pcb. it should be much better. also . just to make sure. SP36 has all the protection needed right? the low voltage . overcharge (type c) etc? thanks for answering my nooby questions hehe

Of course low voltage protection (LVP), but I never heard of overcharge (type c) in a flashlight - wut is that?

Ohh, you mean for the charging circuitry - I know nothing about it. Even though I wrote the firmware, I've had 0 involvement in this product, 0 contact with Sofirn about it.

I ordered a SP36 from the Ali store, like everyone else, paid $52.95 with a small discount (forgot from where), and am waiting like forever for a tracking update - last update from Dec 5th.

Wrong choices of words haha. Basically when it’s full it’ll stop charging. It should be implemented . Dumb me for asking haha. Btw just searched for 30q pin top etc and nada… No results in my country’s shops . Oh also. There used to be pin top 10A protected GA here. Idk where it’s gone. Now sellers just sell the flat top ones. I was thinking if they still sell em. I can just remove the PCB and I’ll get unprotected button top. But yeah no go. I don’t want to go to the solder route because I’m not good at it and I don’t know if the added resistance is worth it. Anyways thanks for answering :slight_smile:

Wait what? I bought it a week ago (I think) it’s been shipped and the tracking changed to departed country of origin. So it should be on the way here.

my SP36 is arriving soon. What 30Qs do I need to buy: button top or flat top?

Thanks in advance.

button top :smiley:

Oh, you’re gonna like it!

Thank you!

My Sofirn is coming very soon haha. It has arrived at my country’s post. But it will probably take some time since it’s near the new year… btw I bought myself some VTC6 haha. No button top. So I just bought myself some 5mm X 2mm neodymium n35 class magnets. I hope its gonna work just fine. I guess I’m gonna store my Pana B’s as spares . If I need more runtime maybe idk. Also any ideas to secure my magnets? I’ve heard people glueing the sides to help secure it in place. Also another question. The magnet shouldn’t add that much resistance eh? Thanks !!

No experience with that. I've solder blob'ing many flat tops and they all work. Magnets and glue? Maybe, magnets should add some resistance but not sure how much effect. Solder blobs add very little resistance, better than button tops.

Ah I see. I hope it’s still gonna be better than the Pana B’s :stuck_out_tongue: … I guess these should power the flashlight to the max hahaha :stuck_out_tongue:

Wouldn’t glue act as a barrier between the magnet and the positive end of the battery? The twisting motion might shear them off though and nobody wants loose metal pieces inside a high powered flashlight.

no it wont. because im putting the magnet first, then i glue around the magnet. just to make it stay in place. it should be fine i think…

Before gluing magnets, you should try without it. My VTC6 are working fine in a BLF Q8.

yes i will try em first without magnets. thank you :slight_smile:

Eh hey guys. Just read things on the internet and I just found out that VTC6 has 80° temperature cut off. I’m kinda confused tho. I’ve searched everywhere but can’t find anything. So how does it work? Like when it’s 80° it’s just gonna cut the power? Then when it’s below 80, will it connect again? Sorry guys for discussing batteries here. It’s just I can’t find anything about it hahaha. Thanks !

Also I have a thought of what glue I will use around the magnets to secure it. It’s : www.uhu.com/en/products/all-purpose-adhesives/detail/uhu-alleskleber-superstrong-safe-1.html?cHash=e0aa4229a79843ce9979d204894e9eda&step=689

It says on the page that it can handle up to 100°C which should be enough . And it says it can bond to metal.

Wow, as a new user of Li-ion cells you should probably slow down. Removing protection circuits from cells without quite a bit of prior knowledge is a really good way to get hurt.

Magnets on top of cells are not a good idea, again a very easy uninformed way to run into problems. These cells, if shorted out, can weld steel… this is the very reason for the protection circuit to begin with. Learn more about these cells by reading here on the forum, there is a lot of available information without having to ask a million questions in a thread designed for a particular flashlight.

And keep a check on the cells, this is why I personally do NOT use built in chargers… I have seen quality married cells fail in a name brand light, literally one out of four died… had I caught it before it was dead , just very low, and tried to run Turbo or charge in-light… things could have gotten ugly. So always check that the cells are still within close enough limits before charging, even if that means removing the cells before every charge to check with a multimeter. Too cautious is merely a small waste of time, not cautious enough could be a waste of life… learn the difference.

Yeah I see. But yeah I quite understand how Li-on batteries work. But yeah I know how much amperage it can give and what can happen when it’s shorted haha. And the magnet . I thought it might move and short things. That’s why I was thinking of glueing outside of the magnet if that makes sense. Just to keep it in place