Can hardly wait
It will use a different firmware than the usual low-med-high-turbo-SOS common in most Wuben flashlights?
Right. I have designed a new UI for this light, trying to make it as easy and pleasant to use as possible:
- Click on, click off
- #1 requirement for any flashlight is to get it on or off quickly and effortlessly
- Click on/off works instantly, no matter how fast you turn the light on or off - no risk for accidental strobe or other "double-click features"
- Suitable also for signaling!
- Click W to change mode
- 4 modes in the main cycle -> find the correct mode quickly
- Need 2 modes up? Just click twice - no risk for accidental strobe or other annoyances!
- The whole UI is based on click and press actions (and nothing else!) => no difficult double/triple/quad clicks!
- Empirical studies show that especially older people have problems with double clicks
- No risk for accidental double clicks that may turn the light on strobe or simply blind you!
- Shortcuts to lowest mode and turbo mode
- A typical situation is that you quickly need one of these modes without knowing which mode was last used
- Momentary turbo (from off or any mode)
- Imagine walking with the light on 250lm mode, you hear something, press W-button for a momentary turbo to see what's there, and finally release button to get back to 250lm mode and continue your walk.. :)
- Hidden Strobe, Beacons & SOS
- In case you happen to need them..
UI diagram: (Modes are not final. Anything can still change. No promises, no lies!)
Thanks for the update!
Here’s a link to the bigger version of the UI diagram.
I know it’s early still, but any idea how much current is pulled on each mode?
Say I’m on Med1 and want to cycle back to Low, would I be able to do that without flashing the higher modes at all if button presses are fast enough? Or would it require full power cycle?
Being able to drop to a lower output so quickly is one of my favorite things about my Zebralights and the new Anduril FW.
Also any word of the emitters and any choices there? LH351D was exciting before we found out most of the bins available are very green-ish. 
Med1 to Low is either:
- three quick clicks (light flashes on each level, so you may need to cover the business end while doing so)
or
- click off, long press on, click mode change (doesn’t go through all modes, but is a bit more complex)
Emitters will be LH351D, but judging by the samples they are not too green. They are typical 3535, so emitter swap is easy if needed.
the UI looks great. I love two button UI. However, was anything done to make the buttons easier to locate in the dark. The TO46R buttons were extremely difficult to find in the dark.
Tip of the day: Turn the clip to the opposite side of the switches. Greatly helps to find the switches.
This works especially well with the deep carry clip of TO50R.
That’s not too bad at all for the UI, pretty similar to most tail-switch lights really and the interface sounds pretty easy to figure out once a user gets used to having two side-switches.
Screwed bezel, not press fit I take it then? I never owned the 46R.
I bought 5 TO46R, 1 TO10R, and 2 TO40R. I bought them to swap out the LEDs. They were all screwed bezel. If it’s press fit, I won’t buy a single one.
I’ll second that. I learned my lesson on the Fireflies PL47. Not buying another light with pressed in bezle or switch ring.
I thought I remembered at least the 46R being modded quite a bit, hope that trend continues with the 50.
This is actually the one huge complaint I have with Zebralights. I don’t even want to talk about what I had to do to get mine to stay in after the bezel ring failed - its embarrassing. Of course I like everything else on the damn light too much to bother sending it away for 5+ weeks to get repaired so nobody to blame but myself.
The bezel is screw-in. I wouldn’t allow a press fit in any of my lights. 
+2; there are too many 21700s on the way to waste money going backwards to charge them.
I’ll also ask for battery fitment parameters/tolerances here whether I’m the only enthusiast left on the planet running protected cells or not.
‘Someday’ :zipper_mouth_face: …forum members will take back charge of their own marketplaces and demand only the latest technologies or well thought out/accommodating designs. In the meantime, I suppose that never-before-witnessed control elsewhere has saved my spending of late.
Sincere best of luck with the light nonetheless.
Interested. If it has a TRUE Moonlight (1 lumen or less) and if it has a illuminated power button. The pocket clip alignment world to find the switches but in some cases it still moves. An illuminated power switch will solve this. Or an Olight S1R/S2R Baton II style unmovable clip. And what about Luminus SST-20 emitters for better optical performance?
I wish it jaf illuminated switch ot at least a white power switch. I always remove the pocket clips on my flashlights because I dont use them and they add bulk to the flashlight.
My 46R started having intermittent operating issues after a month of usage. Light would suddenly shutoff after a few minutes even on low mode (used it as night light for my toddler boys). Sometimes wouldn’t turn on when switched on, then all of a sudden, boom, a blast of light…. the 10R on the other hand has worked perfectly since receiving it. They were both purchased during the group buy with the NW emitters. It was odd that the 46R head was glued on to the tube and the tail cap was removable for battery changes, whereas the 10R had it’s tail cap glued and the head removable for battery removable/changes.
Maybe I got the one lemon 46R… I’ll have to figure out how to pull it apart to check the circuit as I don’t think its worth the cost to send it in for a replacement/repair. It’s currently used as a single cell charger. Hopefully the 50R don’t have issues (or any issues with the 46R will have been addressed).
No issues with any of mine fortunately. Have you tried cleaning the contacts with alcohol? Also try another battery.
Sorry to hear that you have problems with the 46R :zipper_mouth_face: So far mine are working fine (10R and 46R, this one bought in the NW groupbuy).
The “glued” parts are common, for what I’ve seen. Only some of the first 46R came with head unglued. With a rubber strap wrench and some force the head will eventually come out. I guess all the TO10R have the tail glued, though.
I believe - the - will address those eventual issues (if they exist) before they leave the factory 