Test/review of Led driver 17mm 3A LiIon Fasttech 4594600

Barkuti, in other threads you said high mode might be bumped up via the jumper - is this the case? Did you try, and if it works - how is it?

Better try this:

All modes are independently adjustable.

Heatsink the driver well.

Cheers :-)

How do I set the Mod I plan to change? By On/off the power source and leaving the driver memorized the mode?

And does the Simon ´s method works on new drivers from Fasttech?

^
You need to chose mode that you want to change. And tap, tap, tap or hoooold.
Yes, its works.

Yeah, definitely !
Thanks!
I didn’t think it would work with the new version.

This seems to be normal.
Mine do this too, even with stock settings.

So, can the current of the high mode be adjusted to values higher than 3 Amperes? Or is 3 Amperes the maximum?

3A is max



3A is probably the maximum by design, to avoid onboard stuff burning out. But cooling can be improved, so time to stack additional sense resistors atop the stock R010. Each R050 will allow extra +600mA, so up to 4.8A with 3x additional R050 sense resistors. I advice to install some tiny copper heatsink over the AON7520 MOSFET in such a case.

Cheers ^:)

P.S.: tried to use de simple post editor, Jerommel, but couldn't. The advanced one is WYSIWYG.

I guess i should have tried before, using the advanced post editor makes all the code invisible, so problem solved. :THUMBS-UP:

But i ordered some sub Ohm resistors to slap on top of the R010.

R020 on top should get me 4.5 Amperes. R030 should get me 4 Amperes.

Waiting for them to arrive...

Where to get cheeeap low value sense resistors? I have a few R050s, R200s and others scavenged from drivers, power bank boards, etc.

They weren’t super cheap.

Found them on Ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1206-Metal-Alloy-SMD-SMT-Chip-Resistors-1-1W-0-001R-0-005R-0-008R-To-0-03R-Ohm/263868106346

Oh! Well, had to find some better deals:

Of course 10 pieces is probably all you may need, but just in case. The 68mΩ resistor can be nice for certain regulated drivers like the H1-A, H2-C, LD-29, etc.

Cheers

P.S.: Gonna build something with LD-25 plus white flat KW CSLNM1.TG maybe, Jerommel?

Yeah, waiting for those parts to make a B158(B) with the White Flat 1mm²
I also put a LD25 and a Flat White 1mm² in a Solarstorm SC01, but the optic i used doesn’t work out too well with this LED…
I have another optic to try out in it (cheap Led Lenser like TIR) which seems to do a better job.
It’s a stock LD25 because even the WindyFire 14500 sags a lot (too much to my liking) above 3 Amperes.
(I put the driver in there up side down and stuck a small Omten on the empty side of the board.)
Not sure yet what i’m gonna do with the 3rd White Flat 1mm² i got.

Your linked resistors are 0.25 Watt, mine are 1 Watt (according to the listing).
0.25 Watt is probably enough, but i felt better about getting 1 Watt.

Curios whether anyone with the same OP driver from Fasttech allows setting of output current as indicated in the video?

I decided to give the driver a try but the copy I have does not respond to taps or hold adjustments at all.

The L-M-H modes (and double-click strobe) all work as indicated. The current readings for mine are 0.09A, 0.91A and 1.7A (the lower High probably due battery being used). Regardless, I can’t get any adjustment activity when comnecting the set pad (tiny pad with hole in middle) to ground ring.

I wonder if the one from FT is different from the ones direct from Simon/Convoy even though they look similar on the outside?

For me, the same problem, they can not be set. I ordered 2 pieces from Fasttech a month ago. I’ll order one from Convoy and then test it.

pc_light and deus1ex, my last two LD-25s from FastTech were ordered on November 15th and shipped Nov 24th. I used one of those for a custom 219B build and the current output adjustment worked fine.

pc_light, only 1,7A? Your current path was sub-optimal.

Please be aware that physical connections to the driver with alligator clamps and such have a lot of resistance, you'll need to raise the input voltage more than you may believe for it to behave, namely when adjusting high mode. Two alligator clips plus cable and other contacts easily means 0,3 Ω or more. At 3A this means you need at least a full volt above the minimum required voltage for the driver to pump 3A to the emitter (which could already be 3,6V).

I recommend heatsinking the driver properly first, optimizing the current path to the driver, and raising the input voltage if the stuff misbehaves. Even more I said. A lot.

Cheers ^:)

Thanks deux1ex, looking forward to your results.

FWIW, mine was ordered from FT on 21-Jan.

Thanks for the ideas Barkuti.

Yeah, I was setting on my testing rig which was using a 14500 cell, probably only capable of delivering less than 3A. But the voltage is 4.0V (open load) when I checked just now.

I’m happy with High, I was actually trying to lower the Low and perhaps Med; I’ll try again with a high-drain 18650 battery just to confirm.

Follow-up -

In subsequent testing of the board with a high-drain 18650 for whatever reason, it died. :frowning:

It wasn’t running at the time it died, it was simply working one time, then when I disconnected and reconnected, it simply wouldn’t light. The led will run direct drive if I bypass and connect battery to driver LED neg, so it’s a failure somewhere between ground ring and required circuit.

I decided to take a close-up look at the driver board to check for obvious diconnects and I must admit it’s filthy. Little solder balls scattered everywhere. May or may not be related to the failure but not a good sign. I’m going to write this driver off and look elsewhere.

What is the package size of the R010 sense resistor?

And after changing the output on a given mode, does it permanently stay at that set point forever?