Sofirn SP36, impressions of a sample

My Sofirn is coming very soon haha. It has arrived at my country’s post. But it will probably take some time since it’s near the new year… btw I bought myself some VTC6 haha. No button top. So I just bought myself some 5mm X 2mm neodymium n35 class magnets. I hope its gonna work just fine. I guess I’m gonna store my Pana B’s as spares . If I need more runtime maybe idk. Also any ideas to secure my magnets? I’ve heard people glueing the sides to help secure it in place. Also another question. The magnet shouldn’t add that much resistance eh? Thanks !!

No experience with that. I've solder blob'ing many flat tops and they all work. Magnets and glue? Maybe, magnets should add some resistance but not sure how much effect. Solder blobs add very little resistance, better than button tops.

Ah I see. I hope it’s still gonna be better than the Pana B’s :stuck_out_tongue: … I guess these should power the flashlight to the max hahaha :stuck_out_tongue:

Wouldn’t glue act as a barrier between the magnet and the positive end of the battery? The twisting motion might shear them off though and nobody wants loose metal pieces inside a high powered flashlight.

no it wont. because im putting the magnet first, then i glue around the magnet. just to make it stay in place. it should be fine i think…

Before gluing magnets, you should try without it. My VTC6 are working fine in a BLF Q8.

yes i will try em first without magnets. thank you :slight_smile:

Eh hey guys. Just read things on the internet and I just found out that VTC6 has 80° temperature cut off. I’m kinda confused tho. I’ve searched everywhere but can’t find anything. So how does it work? Like when it’s 80° it’s just gonna cut the power? Then when it’s below 80, will it connect again? Sorry guys for discussing batteries here. It’s just I can’t find anything about it hahaha. Thanks !

Also I have a thought of what glue I will use around the magnets to secure it. It’s : www.uhu.com/en/products/all-purpose-adhesives/detail/uhu-alleskleber-superstrong-safe-1.html?cHash=e0aa4229a79843ce9979d204894e9eda&step=689

It says on the page that it can handle up to 100°C which should be enough . And it says it can bond to metal.

Wow, as a new user of Li-ion cells you should probably slow down. Removing protection circuits from cells without quite a bit of prior knowledge is a really good way to get hurt.

Magnets on top of cells are not a good idea, again a very easy uninformed way to run into problems. These cells, if shorted out, can weld steel… this is the very reason for the protection circuit to begin with. Learn more about these cells by reading here on the forum, there is a lot of available information without having to ask a million questions in a thread designed for a particular flashlight.

And keep a check on the cells, this is why I personally do NOT use built in chargers… I have seen quality married cells fail in a name brand light, literally one out of four died… had I caught it before it was dead , just very low, and tried to run Turbo or charge in-light… things could have gotten ugly. So always check that the cells are still within close enough limits before charging, even if that means removing the cells before every charge to check with a multimeter. Too cautious is merely a small waste of time, not cautious enough could be a waste of life… learn the difference.

Yeah I see. But yeah I quite understand how Li-on batteries work. But yeah I know how much amperage it can give and what can happen when it’s shorted haha. And the magnet . I thought it might move and short things. That’s why I was thinking of glueing outside of the magnet if that makes sense. Just to keep it in place

Most glues do not fare well when sheer strength is a must. If going to so much trouble why not just use a proper button top cell? It pays to sort out the details before ordering the wrong parts… like the saying in carpentry, measure twice cut once.

Save your protected Panasonics for another purchase for which they are better suited, a lantern perhaps?

No one sells button top batteries here. They only sell Pana B’s with button top. And some fake batteries AKA Ultrafire etc. And some type of efest that is worse than Pana B’s. Tho some sells VTC6 etc flat top since it’s used to vape etc.

I’ve already removed the PCBs from the Pana B’s. Gonna use em as spares if I need more runtime and don’t have time to recharge.

Also. Any tips and tricks to see if VTC6 is real or not ? Physically? Its on the way. But the seller guarantee real VTC6 . Each has different barcodes and serial . The positive has 3 (legs?) … Any more tricks spotting real Vs fake vtc 6? Thanks

Anyways back to my original question. How does the temp cut off on VTC6 work?

+1

Patience is a virtue. Letting worries run wild is not. Wait until everything arrives, try it to see how it works, and then if there are issues maybe consider further action. Waiting is hard, but it’s an absolute necessity for this hobby… so it pays to get good at keeping busy with other things.

Same way it works on any cell… Cell gets hot and hits thermal limit, thermal fuse trips, cell is dead.

It can not be revived after the thermal protection has been activated, it’s a one time thing to try to save you from a vent with flame (industry term for explode). It does nothing to “protect” the cell, it’d be more accurate to say it sacrafices the cell to try to save your house / life.

It really sounds like you have more reading to do before you’re at a safe level of understanding…

Edit: were not picking on you personally, why would we (we obviously don’t even know you)? Instead we’re trying to help you. Help you learn but mostly help you not hurt yourself. It’s clear by your questions youre brand new to this, li battery danger is real and li batteries burn houses down every single day, so often now it doesn’t even make the news anymore like when the technology was younger.

Ah I see. Thanks guys …

Ahh that one. I thought it’s a different kind of protection. Thanks eh

Hey guys, the SP36 are available on amazon us. Any interested, please PM us for surprise price :smiley:

hey guys. its me again. yay! my sofirn has arrived!! . tried changing the settings etc and im happy with the ramping mode haha. anyways . i changed the thermal to temp based haha. i dont think its wise to change it to 3 minutes haha. its because sometimes its hot here so 60seconds are enough time to make it so hot lol. anyways… my vtc6 works just fine without a magnet. tried turbo for a few and measured the voltage each. and its the same. so it is draining thru all of em at the same time. im really impressed so far haha. also . i have a suggestion for later batches or newer model. add PD (power delivery) support for charging the flashlight. why is it important? because most C-C charger is PD . (Apple charger etc) and how it works , is that it wont give ANY power until it detects a handshake or i guess sometimes a resistor works as a pulldown so it will know that a device is plugged in… anyways. i guess i could just use usb A male to usb C female adapter for now. also another note is to widen the charging port. like not the port itself but the surrounding… some of my cables dont fit. oh and yeah the best i can get is about 7-8watts over the usb. its nice .i guess that is for now… i will add things if it comes to me.

Do you plan on producing the SP36 in other tints and with Andúril?