The Anduril version is different between Fireflies lights and Emisar lights it seems. On my D4S, I can switch the aux leds between low, high, beacon, but it doesn’t have things like muggle mode. On fireflies, it has muggle mode, but can’t switch the aux leds.
The problem with the instruction manual is that it’s printed in black and white, ToyKeeper laid it out in color. So the two thin lines indicating one click or two clicks are different colors and much more easily understood.
Nice video, fun to watch as usual… wish you’d gotten a color manual so it would have been easier to follow. Learn the actions first, everything after that is easy.
The lights in the switch are Fireflies behaviour, not inherent to Anduril. They decided 2 of the smd’s needed to be on at all times, the other two work with the aux smd’s. Not how TK would have done it, but how Jack wanted it.
Yes, according to multiple controlled tests the E07 powered by the 21700 cell is nearly as powerful. If I had a set of 3 sony VTC6 I think there would be a gain on that. My LG cells are descent performers though.
Thank you for letting us know.
I was thinking that I read somewhere the E07 auxiliary lights can be turned up or down (maybe off) using those pots that sit on the board? Perhaps one of them is keyed to the switch? It is possible to turn off the LEDs on the face by 7 clicks from off. On/blink/off etc
Nice job on the review, very well explained! if we’d have had yours and m4d max’s combined that would be the complete review lol! the point about not many batteries fitting in the actual lights (length wise) in the other review is quite important, especially if buying them at the same time - nothing worse than a shiny new light and battery turning up only to find they wont’t fit lol!
I’m still not convinced about the headband though, it’s more of a quick fix than a proper solution - the fact remains it’s still the wrong headband, the clip just stops it wobbling a bit.
On the thermal configuration example. He did 9 clicks, then 40 clicks. What does each signify?
He said 30 clicks would give 60 C… He actually did 40 clicks which would be 70C or 158F. Is that too hot of a ceiling?
That’s Anduril only correct? I have a couple that are older Narsil M. Is the procedure different?
Is the 21700 battery length issue on the E07 only limited to the Nichia 219 versions? i.e. Should I be concerned with 21700 battery length on the E07 SST-20 version?
In Vesture of Blood’s review he uses Samsung 21700 40T’s in the E07, which list at 70.1mm. In M4dM4x’s review he uses Shockli 21700’s which list at 70.5mm.
So is 0.4mm really the deciding factor between a battery that works and one that doesn’t? Or is it the XPL-HI (in Vesture of Blood’s review) vs the Nichia (in MadMax’s review)? I really don’t know. The tube is most likely the same length, and I can’t believe the driver board would be in a different position somehow to affect the length…
So what gives?
Edit: Correction, the Shockli lists at 70.9mm. So that’s 0.8mm difference. Still not that large. Sorry for the New Year’s celebration impacting my post.
I have a PL47 and 30T and 40T fit great. 50E however are very tight. So yes, less than 1.0mm can make a difference, I feel the tolerances are a bit too tight IMO.
Can you confirm that the PL47 and the E07 use the same tube?
If 0.8mm really makes the difference, then that’s definitely a failure in tolerances. The only reason springs exist in a flashlight is for accommodating variances in cell length1. If they’ve failed to do this, then that’s a design flaw plain and simple.
1 - Yes I realize springs do also provide some shock absorption but that's not their primary purpose.