Fireflies Rot66 vs E07 vs PL47

hard to believe they would stock and individualize different tubes for diff emitters
are you serious?

Sort of?

In Vesture of Blood’s review he uses Samsung 21700 40T’s in the E07, which list at 70.1mm. In M4dM4x’s review he uses Shockli 21700’s which list at 70.5mm.

So is 0.4mm really the deciding factor between a battery that works and one that doesn’t? Or is it the XPL-HI (in Vesture of Blood’s review) vs the Nichia (in MadMax’s review)? I really don’t know. The tube is most likely the same length, and I can’t believe the driver board would be in a different position somehow to affect the length…

So what gives?

Edit: Correction, the Shockli lists at 70.9mm. So that’s 0.8mm difference. Still not that large. Sorry for the New Year’s celebration impacting my post. :slight_smile:

I have a PL47 and 30T and 40T fit great. 50E however are very tight. So yes, less than 1.0mm can make a difference, I feel the tolerances are a bit too tight IMO.

Can you confirm that the PL47 and the E07 use the same tube?

If 0.8mm really makes the difference, then that’s definitely a failure in tolerances. The only reason springs exist in a flashlight is for accommodating variances in cell length1. If they’ve failed to do this, then that’s a design flaw plain and simple.

1 - Yes I realize springs do also provide some shock absorption but that's not their primary purpose.

Excellent review. I enjoyed watching it in full. All very powerful flashlights.

Fireflies should start selling additional tubes to BLF members who are having problems with the initial tube.

Springs in a flashlight allow the light to stay on if/when dropped or given a hard shock… that is the defining purpose.

There are quite a few “crusher” style lights out there that work perfectly with a given cell, do you think everyone that buys those lights buys the specified cell to go with it? If Jack sold a proprietary cell alongside the PL47 and guaranteed it’s fitment, you can rest assured a great many would take a pass on that cell in favor of their own… it’s all part of designing lights to be as compact as possible to gain favor with a particular market group, much like the DQG lights.

It is form that follows function, not the other way around.

If you’re having an issue email him or PM him on here. You do realize it comes with a 5 year warranty, not need to freak.

Great video VOB I just received my EO7 and feel very empowered now.

Does anyone know which cell Jacky’s including with his giveaway (grey 21700)?

Also, i have a champagne pl47 and whenever i try to configure something, it goes into a mode in which a click goes straight into turbo, a click and hold goes turbo then strobe, and a double click goes into low.

Don’t think that’s anything in the firmware aginthelaw, sounds like a problem. Are you having to really crank down on the tail cap to get it to work? Excess pressure could cause the driver to glitch… I’ve flashed Anduril a lot of times and that behavior you describe is not on any of mine.

I tighten it enough to get it from glitching which happens if it’s NOT tight enough.

Each click represents 1 degree C. What I did in the video was just an example, I cant remember what I actually set it too. 70C is going to be a “hold by tail cap” kind of hot. I’ve had lights in bench tests survive roughly that though. Probly not good for real world use.

A difference of 0.8mm could be the make or break on this light. Convoy L6 has the same problem. I think with this light much of the issue could be the spring bypass on the battery + end. In my E07 is its very hard and stiff. Looking just now at I noticed it concaved battery top as a result. The solder joint sticks out past the spring, and the travel is also reduced by it somewhat. Eliminating it may not be easy either, as it looks like the wire comes through a drill hole in the center vs a pad to spring contact.

Remember that when setting the temperature it’s 30º + the number of clicks you’re adding. So if you want to set it at 40 you add 10 clicks. 30 is a base setting and you can’t drop below that. For 50º you click 20 times, 30 + 20 = 50.

Is the default 50º?

I am curious about this as well. I think 50C would be high as a base setting, but curious to find out.

I’d also like to know what the highest “safe” temp setting would be. Along the lines of the D4S.

Really? That’s a surprise for me… Then I really disagree with the option.

Unfortunately they’re quite rare, at least the ones I like. No need to be for a unique cell, Lexel posted a mounting that uses screws to adjust the size.

I’d very much like to get rid of these pesky springs to reduce contact resistance, for high output flashlights.

So the 9 clicks, before the 40. Wouldn’t that be the “ current temp”…you set it at 39C right ? If the light is cold (hasn’t been running) should we just use room temp?

If you read the spreadsheet for Anduril first clicks is the temperature calibration
So if light is 20 degree you click 20 times

The aux boards inner LEDs are low battery at 3.3V, first batch ROT66 about 3.65V, as the whole board were run from MCU,
while revision 2 added a small on/off FET and MCU acts only as turn on signal while supply comes directly from battery, this explains 3 wire connection on newer lights

0.3V below that all LEDs shut down

Lexel, I have to say that E07 aux board sure is a wonder to look at! Well done sir! :+1: