(prototype) the GT Mini

It ’could’ also be a loose piece of solder…… possibly.

Based on the sound it could be the reflector and/or the window.

If the centering ring is there, maybe the o-ring is missing. Assuming the o-ring applies pressure to the lens and reflector. You might add a little heat to the bezel (hair dryer, heat gun, etc…) and see if you can loosen it.

Is the lens (window) loose??
Press on it & shake the light and see if the sound stops.

When I press hard on the lens it helps but there is still some rattling. Neal still didn’t reply. :frowning:

I just want to let you know that I fixed my GT Mini. The issue was a cold solder on the microswitch.

Good for you P33…… :+1: . Glad you figured it out.

Hmmmm…… ??? . Hopefully Neal will reply & have some idea……
To bad the bezel is glued tight…… :person_facepalming:

I’m having some problems. The switch behaves strangely sometimes. It started working fine a few days ago when I loosened bezel a tiny bit. I opened it again today removed the reflector to check something and put it back and it started doing random things again. Like not not detecting clicks and sometimes detecting two. It seems to fix itself sometimes but then starts malfunctioning again.

sounds like the problem me and and a few got in here, i would ask for replacement head.

Yep… Where did you buy yours Th558?

Banggood

For some reason the highest current I can get from a 30q is 3 amps. This is with a mustool MT66 with some AC mains cables instead of stock leads. With an LG MJ1 I got about 3.8 amps. The led looks brighter aswell compared to my L16. The button is slightly off center on the 30qs so could this be what’s causing the problem? I don’t even know if I’m meant to be using button tops in the first place but that is what it states on banggoods page.

Multimeters are no good for amp draws. They almost always read low, especially as the current increases they become more inaccurate. You need a clamp meter.

Unless I missed someone, I count 18 people to date who have posted about switch problems. They are….

  • djozz // Reported RESOLVED
  • mortuus // RESOLVED
  • teacher // RESOLVED
  • RobertB // Reported RESOLVED
    ………
  • gabo // RESOLVED
  • Cereal_killer /
  • Jhicks2018 // RESOLVED
  • P33 / // RESOLVED (“partial refund” reported)
  • Coyotehawk
  • X3 / // RESOLVED (PayPal dispute refund)
  • illuminos
  • Silent_Star /
  • Juheebus / // RESOLVED (Replacement head)
  • mb200k
  • Pulstar // RESOLVED
  • A92AA0B03E / // RESOLVED (Replacement head)
  • komeko // RESOLVED <span class=“+ “HERE”:(prototype) the GT Mini - #1417 by komeko +explained refund… & dispute PayPal”>
  • Th558 /

Anyone else having any type GT Mini switch problems besides the people I mentioned above??
………
List updated. Th558 Added, 5 January 2019

I’d like to ask a question I couldn’t get an answer elsewhere. I just could find one runtime graphic on google, showing that the GT mini steps down to around 10% of the output in the first 3 minutes? Can anyone confirm that? Thank you.

hm yes it does stepdown, but not to like 10%, a few hundreds lumens less but how much i cant say exactly.

Has anybody measured and plotted a runtime graphic?

My GT mini has just arrived, I’m in China right now and bought directly from Lumintop. I got the neutral white version. I like it so far, waiting to get dark to test it.

I don’t know if I got lucky, but the flat on the body is perfectly aligned with the button.

I have not seen any for this light.