[Mod] Olight H2R with Nichia E21A LED 6500K R9080

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Olight H2R is a very practical high brightness headlight

Using optical lens

Use a small electric drill to carefully drill 2 holes, and do not hurt the lines inside

Then use a knife to clear out the space under the pressure ring

Use the lever principle to open the pressure ring

Remove the pressure ring

Remove the lens

CREE XHP50 1 generation

Removed lens and pressure ring

Remove the MCPCB (LED)

LED wiring, switch wiring, and a housing ground wire

Ready to install Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 LED

Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 LED CRI Test Results (Reposted)

LED 6V power connection diagram

Reflow LED

Use IPA to clean, will not hurt the LED surface

Start the wiring, the MCPCB is not easy to solder beautiful

Finished wiring welding

Test I

Test II

bead lens

Selected three 20mm to test

If you do not like the direct charging function, you can paste the negative electrode with a special sticker.

Completed

After to 2 weeks……….continue…
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This is another H2R that has been completely destroyed

Get a original lens and pressure ring

Remove the re-installation lens, by the way using thermal glue to fixed and heat dissipation
No spacers are used

Reinstall complete, perfect
The right side is the ArmyTek wizard pro Nichia E21A 5000K+6500K mixing version
Please refer to the following link:(Chinese)
http://news.wii.tw/viewthread.php?tid=59920&highlight=

You light up my life

Repost: nichia E21A tone test picture

practical testing:
Left: ArmyTek wizard pro (5000K+6500K) Right: Olight H2R (6500K)
ArmyTek’s honeycomb lens is really good and its floodlight spot is very beautiful
The H2R’s original lens will see a light block
Cool white high CRI R9080+, the actual visual inspection is a whole white

H2R lens not installed

H2R After installing the original lens

The new toy received today, the light meter

LuminTop ODF30 turbo mode 498800 lux
Please refer to:

H2R extremely bright 142500 lux

ArmyTek wizard pro extremely bright 100900 lux

The above is for reference only: there are differences in data due to distance and on-site lighting
thanks for watching

1 Thank

Very nice. Which optics did you end up using in each light, and did you modify them in any way? Seems like they both have the original manufacturer optics.

Yes, All original manufacturer optics.

Very nice build, thanks for posting it all!

That Nichia E21A 6500K R9080 is amazing, I have one in an Olight M10 Maverik and with its cool tint with great CRI and throwy beam it made for a fantastic EDC.

Very nice Steel. It’s not really that hard is it? Once we get past the fence of destroy-that-lens moment, everything is so much easier. Did you clean the LEDs with boiling IPA as I told you? Be careful with the fumes, I went dizzy one time :confounded:
Now Olight and Armytek have to weld the bezel to secure their internals :smiling_imp:

- Clemence

BTW, please send me the link to you TASI meter. Does it has USB port?

- Clemence

No USB port

https://de.aliexpress.com/item/TA8134-Lux-Meter-Messbereich-1-200-000lux-Licht-meter/32843044666.html?spm=a2g0x.search0104.3.1.320057ffLoig5H&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_3_10152_10065_10151_10344_10068_10342_10343_10059_10340_10341_10696_100031_10084_10083_10103_524_10618_10624_10307_10623_10622_10621_10620%2Csearchweb201603_31%2CppcSwitch_2&algo_expid=aff2c8f9-93a0-4963-8d44-acbbaca67132-0&algo_pvid=aff2c8f9-93a0-4963-8d44-acbbaca67132&priceBeautifyAB=0

https://detail.tmall.com/item.htm?id=544799759820&spm=a1z09.2.0.0.712b2e8dMSKX8y&\_u=92d5up3c675&skuId=3283570305742

Thanks, yup no USB port unfortunately.

- Clemence

Where buy oryginal bead lens ?

Came from another H2R that has been completely destroyed.

But

You can try other 20mm bead lens.

How many degrees has the original?

80 - 90 ?

I seem to have seen relevant information before.
But, I can’t confirm now.

Original description:
Lens / Reflector Type TIR bead lens (wide/broad beam)

Cool :+1:

And what’s the driver size in the H2R/H1R/H1 series?

I did not disassemble the driver
(H2R) Driver about 18~19mm

That’s pretty small since the Wizard has a ~22mm driver and the H03 a 21mm one. Do you think changing the driver, to lest say a Lexel fet+1, is doable?

Of course you can try it. (Which UI?)

FET direct drive may have overheating problems. Need proper thermal control.

However, You must be very careful to disassemble.

Driver’s pressure ring with adhesive.

Preferably slightly modified Anduril with thermal control. He could also make a eg. 7+1 7135 driver but I don’t know if andurill will run normally in such a non-fet driver. The low mode on the stock Olight driver is simply too high.