That number is too high for a triple and I’ve had similar issues with my shoe box setup. Try adding a small white divider between your phone sensor and the light:
Even this is probably not enough but I suspect you will see lower numbers without optic and similar numbers with optic. If that’s the case you had too much light getting to the sensor without bouncing around.
Alright so, I just remeasured and did it with 2 phones as well as a divider between the phone and light. With one, I got 2700 with optics and lens, 3591 bare. On another, I got 2900 and 3790. So that’s a 23% and 24% loss. I think that seems right? This was done with a VTC6 at about 70% charge.
Lets say you are pulling 12Amps at 0s = 4200 djozzlumens * .80 estimated losses = 3360 djozzlumens at 0s, remove 7-10% for djozz bragging factor = 3024
I need to get a DMM. Anyway, I’m still happy with the Luxeon V2, although I don’t actually know what to do with it. I just saw Luxeon and 3535 and ordered because I haven’t actually seen one that is bad. The tint on this is absolutely gorgeous, very similar to the X-PL HI 3A, but less rosy.
If you decide the divider is more accurate I would re-calculate back to some of your old measurements for the “with optics” numbers so you have a more accurate “floody mule” number but similar numbers for everything else. If that makes sense. In reality it’s probably something inbetween but you may not want to try and redo a whole new baseline just for this.
Yea I’ll probably stick to this. I don’t have any light that uses otpics for now, sold all of them since I find them too floody. The lights with reflectors don’t have much difference in measurements with the divider so all is good.
No, the Vf is always measured the same way: ~5cm long 20AWG teflon wires were soldered to the ledboard, the the wires for voltage measurment are clipped at the end of those wires. Ideally you want to solder separate voltage wires right next to the led but I never do that. The voltage drop over those wires is small but not negligable: at 5A it is about 0.03V, this should ideally be substracted from the voltage value.
Just finished my S2+ build, converted from the original XM-L2 U4 6500K LED. And I have to say - downright beautiful result. Didn’t take any beamshots yet, the sun is still out and the room is too bright.
But boy, it looks amazing! Creamy white is the right term mentioned above.
The light I finished uses a LED-DNA optic (60° I believe) and a AR lens on top of that. It is a DD driver, but not built correctly by me (only delivers 2.5A on direct drive currently, with any LED).
Price for best packaging, as usual, goes to Arrow. Thanks again for posting the deal and huge thanks to Arrow for lightning-fast shipping.
Got some interesting results today, the end result was expected but it was great to see the numbers…
A week ago I stuck a quad of these in my old Sinner host but in order to fit the quad optic it has to be sized down to 20mm so that’s quite far into the actual cones/cups of the optic and I knew that would make a big effect on output, I just didn’t think it would eat up ~40% of the lemons!
Case in point it was measuring 2240 out the front lemons at 10.38A (2.595A/emitter) which by the graph should of been about 4100 actual.
I upgraded to a triple today, it’s now running at 7.8A (by coincidence the same 2.6A/emitter. It’s limited with 22AWG wire and lack of a spring bypass to try to keep it somewhat usable) and is putting 2563lm otf for a optical loss of only 16! I actually gained 331lemons going down to a triple. To me, it also says a lot for the [new] optic getting well under 20 optical loss which is what I’ve pretty much always used as a sort of standard multiplier to go from OTF.
Having said all this, it’s almost useless “research” as it’s comparing an off the shelf part to a heavily modified one, so take everything I’ve said with that in mind. Perhaps this would of been a better post for a thread on carlco optics…