I like it X3. What driver are you using? I have a Lexel driver with Narsil setting here. Not sure were to put it.
Edit. I need to work on a switch mod that keeps this from coming on in my pocket.
I like it X3. What driver are you using? I have a Lexel driver with Narsil setting here. Not sure were to put it.
Edit. I need to work on a switch mod that keeps this from coming on in my pocket.
The stock driver and stock firmware are enough for my use so I kept it like that.
OK> How are you driving the aux leds with the stock driver?
Thinking of removing the anodizing from the head of an aluminum D4 and using that with bare titanium body tube, tailcap and bezel. I love the look and feel of the stock titanium-copper D4, but it is a bit heavy for pocket EDC, mostly due to the heavy copper head. Here are some measurements with a Sony VTC6 installed:
Titanium-Copper D4 stock………………………………………………… 173g
D4 aluminum head; titanium bezel, body and tailcap …………… 136g
D4 aluminum head, bezel and tailcap; titanium body tube …… 131g
D4 aluminum stock ………………………………………………………… 116g
I think shiny polished bare aluminum head might look good with bare titanium.
However, not all D4 versions are the same. All of my early D4s do not lego with the titanium body tube. The threads aren’t quite compatible and it won’t screw on.
I have two of the latest version of the D4 (one white and one grey) and these are legoable with the titanium tube. Unfortunately, these more recent models seem to have a different switch. The new switch is more soft-touch without as much click. That’s not a good thing since having a good click is helpful in preventing accidental pocket activation.
I put 2 more thinner wires from the driver to the aux LED board.
One would be enough really, because you can re-use the “+” from the MCPCB
EDIT : glamour shot of the D4 :
Currently EDC’ing an Emisar D4 with the following mods:
I’m considering whether to remove the grey anodizing from the head. The bare titanium might like quite nice with a shined bare aluminum pill.
Doing so would give the light a much more uniform shiny appearance, plus the piece of mind knowing that if I drop it there’s no anodizing to chip. However, in my experience shiny aluminum gets much hotter to the touch faster than dark anodized aluminum. I think the anodization provides a small amount of insulation from heat conduction. Also shiny bare aluminum has lower emissivity than dull dark anodized aluminum. I’m worried that in pursuit of making my D4 look blingy I might make it less functional. The head might get dangerously hot to the touch faster while also offering shorter turbo runtimes since the heat can’t be shed faster.
I’m also a little reluctant to remove the anodizing without possession of a backup head in case I don’t like it. I have several aluminum D4 lights, but only one of them (recent grey) has a head with threads that are fully compatible with the titanium body tube and bezel.
Thanks for the update FF2. I have’t got around to doing this yet. I am waiting on a driver. Might as well tear it all the way down.
How much pocket carry has it gotten ?
Another day and another pocket destroyed by my Emisar D4. Oops! Even with my switch button trim I still had an accidental pocket activation. GRRRR.
To try to protect my remaining pants from the Emisar deep fry, this time I tried something new:
Flip up switch cover for Emisar D4.
Hopefully this will protect my pants pockets from being burned.
I like it.
Warning, firing switch enabled
If only in made a Zippo lighter sound when you flipped it up.
That light looks really nice, though I would use alu tube as well; it’s the part with the least damage exposure…
Is there anything to make sure the cover doesn’t open by itself?
The sides of the cover cover curve outwards and then inwards so that when the cover is closed the side edges grip the edges of the head around the button.
The result is it takes some pressure digging my thumbnail under the bottom of the cover before it unlocks and then flips upwards. I can adjust how much pressure is needed with a long-nosed pliers. I thought of filing a groove on each side of the head for the bottom edges of the sides of the cover to slip into, but I think it isn’t needed. It seems to work quite well as-is.
Once the cover is unlocked it opens the rest of the way easily. Possibly too easily since it now tends to swing all the way forward. I might try adding a drop of super-glue into the hinge pin to add a little resistance so it will stop about halfway.
Twice in 3 days many holes in my pocket.
Hahaha yeah.
I experienced something similar. It’s what gave me the incentive to make my flip-up cover.
3 weeks ago, burned a 1” circular hole in pocket. No damage to exterior of pants or my leg, but giant hole in pocket. Then a couple days ago burned a hole in a brand new pair of pants. This new hole isn’t a full circle and it’s near the edge. Maybe I can sew it up and save the pants.
I think one of the problems is the electronic lockout is way too inconvenient. 6 clicks for lockout is waaaaaay too awkward. 3 clicks would have been much more sensible.
Try to reflash your light with Anduril. Lockout is 4 clicks, 1 more than you would like, but less than 6. I agree 6 is way to many for lockout. 4 is manageable IMO. Also get the bonus of when you press the button in lockout you can get some light, which IIRC is the bottom of the ramp. So if you are locked out, and need a little light, you can get it quickly. If the button is pushed accidentally during lockout you won’t run down the battery.
3 clicks is battery check, temp check sunset, and beacon mode.
Left in lowest, then driving home,hmm something is burning, oh its me.
Ill get some pics up later.
I like Anduril. Just got my E07 yesterday and I find the 4-click lockout acceptable. Still much slower than flipping up my cover and pressing once for turbo though.
I’ve never reflashed a driver, but how hard can it be? … maybe I should get the equipment and give it a shot.
I’ve never reflashed a driver, but how hard can it be? … maybe I should get the equipment and give it a shot.
It’s not that hard, but if you don’t have all the stuff already it’s not that easy either. If you wanted to mail me the driver I could do it for you. PM if if you are interested. I have already done a couple correctly.
I like Anduril. Just got my E07 yesterday and I find the 4-click lockout acceptable. Still much slower than flipping up my cover and pressing once for turbo though.
I’ve never reflashed a driver, but how hard can it be? … maybe I should get the equipment and give it a shot.
You can do it