AFAIK, newer Jet-U doesn’t use PWM in any mode.
- Clemence
Thanks a lot for the pics and impressions Clemence, just what I wanted!
The color rendering numbers posted earlier for the Optisolis show a duv of +.0020, so it’s still above BBL aka slightly green. Are those numbers with the Optisolis in your optics, or the bare emitter? Could it be that the Optisolis gets even more green once inside your optics? I’m just thinking, that if you want to push complete perfection, maybe you should put in a Zircon minus green filter to get it down to .0000 or as close as possible. On the other hand, you could keep it slightly above the BBL if you want it to be a sunlight simulator, as sunlight is also slightly above the BBL.
Yes, side by side Optisolis is greener than E21A. Alone, it’s just neutral. This is the JonSlider effect (he popularize the phenomenon). Even my camera agrees. Minus green filter is a good extra but I simply don’t want (and) have that. I’ll let the user put it on. Again, it’s greener than E21A but it’s natural as you said above, even the sun is above BBL.
One more thing: the tint shift from low mode to high is very pronounced in E21A (neutral to pinkish). While with Optisolis its rock solid
- Clemence
Yeah mitigating tint shift on different output modes is nice. I kinda gave up on the idea of emulating the sunlight with my flashlights. At the end of the day, the sun is just far too bright compared to any flashlight we have, putting 100k lux on every square inch of the ground. It also illuminates things at a far different angle than us holding a flashlight at ground level.
It’d be cool if Maukka get an optisolis one and measured what its duv was, so I could filter accordingly. I’d want to strive for perfection with 0.0000 duv. Derek Dean got me into filters on CPF, and I’m an avid user of them now. I prefer my SST20 4000k with a quarter minus green over the famous 219B R9080 SW45k.
My E07 is my first and last 219B R9080 SW45k. Stepless dimming = stepless tint shifting, not for me.
Perhaps there should be stepless PWM too
- Clemence
Excellent, thank you!
glad youre happy
1/4 minus green lowers DUV by 0.007, so that would bring the SST-20 to -.0038
I can see why you would prefer that… I also prefer tint below BBL
can you share some beamshots?
the pics are links to maukka’s posts
fwiw, here is the sw45
and SST-20 in a reflector
1/4 minus green also lowers lumens by 16%:
Easy fix for the greener Optisolis then 
But, unless you really need extremely high CRI, Jetue21a is all you need. More runtime, pretty tint, flexible beam (with supplied optics), and brighter.
- Clemence
Where are you getting the .007 figure from Jon? The only numbers I could find where from when Maukka applied it to the LH351D, and it pushed it .003ish or so to the rosy side. I wouldn’t consider my SST20 with filter as rosy as the 219B SW45K R9080— only in turbo mode. In its low-mid modes which I use the most, it subjectively looks like it’s right on or very close to neutral.
maukkas Lee Filters chart says duv 0.006 for the xiaomi w no filter and –0.001 w 1/4 minus green
the change from 0.006 to –0.001 is a drop of 0.007 from the 1/4 minus green
Just for fun Quiz!
Which one has the highest CRI?
Only geometry correction, NO color editing whatsoever simply RAW to JPEG conversion, 5600K WB balance
My quess, nobody would see the differences since our monitors are still limited to RGB Amoled or LED. In the real world it’s so much easier to discern.
I’ll give the answer later…. happy guessing!
To prevent anyone think I would cheat, here’s the link to the answers: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1wWGvSrdfIve9Q4EohP3B6sFzbal9w_q4
Will give the open password later.
*Please vote HERE
- Clemence
Unno, but if I really had to guess I’d say #3.
No idea what colors the crayons might actually be in Real Life™, so yeah, it’s just a guess. 
Really hard to distinguish between the colors in 3,4 - only the background and glass is noticeably different here.
The colors in 1 look a bit muted and I assume it’s most above BBL due to background
Not sure what is the best CRI but visually (including tint) I think I would go 4,2,3,1 - best to worst. I would probably say 4,3,2,1 judging by CRI alone. I hope i’m wrong and I prefer the worst LED possible so I can not be concerned about such things as much.
Nice 
According to your comparison above
I speculate 
Picture 1: Is this daylight?
Picture 2 and 3: I see a little rosy tint on the glas? I like this 
Picture 4: Is this the Optisolis? It seems the light blue is a little bit more clear, less rosy
I’m gonna assume 4 is sunlight, since it’s closest to 5600k and will appear the most white. 3 and 2 are rather close, the colors and 3 are a bit darker/ more in shadow than 2, so I don’t know if the difference there is slightly less illumination, or the colors being washed out. The cooler tones in 2 pop a bit more though, however the darker tones in 3 are close to what the tones in 4 are. Actually now that I look at it again, the colors in 3 are close to 4, and 2 are closer to 1 (mainly the peach and the brown crayons)
I’ma go:
1st place: 4 diffused sunlight
2nd place: 3 optisolis
3rd place: 2 E21A
4th place: 1 Cree
Again though, a lot of the difference I’m seeing between 2 and 3 seems to be slight exposure difference.
I cropped them out and overlaid them in photoshop so I can swap back and forth fastly to make the comparison easier.
3>4>2>1
4=5700K ?
All images shot with 5600K WB