I had forgotten about that particular Olight. They accidentally made a model once which would trigger the switch sensor when the LED was aimed at something bright. So taking the light out during the daytime would cause it to turn on.
If I recall correctly, they didn’t make that mistake twice.
The FW3A doesn’t really have physical lock-out. It needs to be unscrewed pretty far to break electrical contact. However, switch contact is only there when it’s fully tightened.
Anduril has a compile-time option to start at the memorized level when power is connected, for use on lights with a side e-switch and a tail clicky switch. This could also be used on something like an Emisar D4 though, by loosening the tailcap.
That’s interesting. My D4 breaks connection with the head also. I have been looking for an e switch light that doesn’t need lock out. Something safe for your pocket. This would at least make it a twisty. I don’t like to twisty and then click. For those short few second jobs.
I do actually like the H17F. It may be a pain to work with, but I can at least get it set up in a way that I like and leave it there. I pretty much won’t buy a multimode light unless I can set each mode, as I like my modes more biased to the lower end than factory defaults usually go.
On the other hand, I agree that the end game in UI development is not needing to program individual modes. Anduril does a very good job of “just working” for almost everyone right out of the box. Control rings like HDS Rotary or V11R are also excellent options.
However, the tail button helps a lot for avoiding accidental activation. And the momentary function of lockout mode is designed specifically for “those short few second jobs”.
Looks good! I finally got round to playing with Anduril last night and figured most of it out from looking at the diagram and reading anduril.txt. I got stuck in muggle mode for a while because I thought I was in momentary mode but that’s definitely user error :person_facepalming: . The only things I would’ve added are brief explanations and default/min/max values, which you’ve done! :+1:
Thank you! Do you mind if I translate it into German? I'm not sure if joechina is already up to creating something comparable (printable pdf in a nice layout).
Therein lies the problem though Jason, she DID state default was set at 1/150, so any REASONABLY intelligent individual would see that the term default showed 1 out of a possible 150 steps, so how do you idiot proof for all the different idiots? I know my own idiocy can, many times, be quite different from the normal… just saying. Once you start configuring the light it becomes pretty evident.
And with this adjustability it becomes easy to set the momentary in lockout to whatever level suits your fancy. It is also easy to set the stepped mode for however many levels one wants, one or three or whatever. So it can suit the needs of a lot of different appetites.
Stepped mode can’t be configured for one mode. See here but you could probably set the ramp min and max values to the same level and effectively have a 1 mode light.
As to optical sensing….
Oveready Boss / Lux-RC use this feature to accomplish more than programming.
When the light accidentally activates, it’s usually in a confined space (i.e. pocket) and that space reflects a lot of light back towards the head. They sense this light and act upon this knowledge ( I don’t remember how, but I remember they do it wrong ).
Anyway, it’s the best solution to the problems with accidental activation that I’ve seen.
Now….would it be possible to port it to FW3A?
I don’t think so, you can’t drive a LED and make it sense at the same time. It works on Lux-RC because they have an auxiliary LED that they use as a sensor.
But we have more and more lights which feature aux LEDs as well…
Can we just stick with programming pins + USB for the foreseeable future? We aren’t going to make a Lux-RC clone with $0 budget at a random Chinese factory