Whelp, I got fooled into thinking the Optisolis was sunlight, guess I’ll have to buy one now. The difference between Optisolis an the E21A is larger than E21A vs 219C.
Yay, crayons !!
Ship them with my next order please. 
Hey, but the R9 value of that 219C, is it always that high?
(PS: i have a 6 year old 23” Medion (an Aldi brand) monitor)
But who gets what color crayons? 
Almost all 219C R9050 exceeds its rating. Maukka got it from other source, not me. But my 219C sm503 R9050 also exceeded R9050. OK, the crayons will be shipped to Jerommel then.
Here’s my 219C R9050 Maukka’s test result:
- Clemence
I wish Optisolis is a single die LED with lower voltage. For me 6500K Jetue21a, way more versatile. I made the VR10S1-757 just for those curious with Optisolis.
- Clemence
I still don’t understand a thing of those test graphs…
Except for the spectrum top middle and the numbers top right…
And i have a question.
Since E17A is mentioned in the topic title, do you have them for sale?
I think a quad will fit nicely on a 3535 footprint, and still able to handle (i guesstimate) 15 Watts (?)
I only have very small numbers of E17A at the moment (sm505 R70, red, green, blue, and amber). One of my next MCPCB would be quadtrix E17A to fit 3535 class (3/6/9/12V configurable).
- Clemence
As I said, the right correct the wrong
Total failure on my CRI assessment 
It was fun, though 
I’m such a CRI baby that 92.5 looks low to me. Come to think of it, most of the lights I use regularly actually are higher than that, but I think it’s the Duv that threw me on #2.
Didn’t expect #2 to be 219c because 219c normally is very positive DUV (above BBL) and greenish. The Optisolis does look like the best daylight simulator.
Somehow I dont think this will change your mind about above BBL tints. I think most people did not mind the positive DUV in these pictures (which actually show something and not just a white wall) yet it is horrific to even consider such a thing on paper. (both literally and figuratively)
Clemence I really thought this was a cool test. I had guessed #1 but I believe there is false information added to it by the white balance adjustment. I opened it up in Photoshop and increased the color temp and all of the reasons I thought it was high CRI went away. It is dull and lifeless at a cooler temp. This doesnt happen to me when I use say the 6500k E21A R9080. Granted I don’t have the RAW to set a fixed WB and I do not have the crayons to do my own test.
I chose #4, but it was as much for the clarity of the image as it was the colors. Numbers 3 & 4 both did a good job of bringing out all the tints, but #4 was just that tad bit sharper with more clarity, especially the jar rim.
I’ve compared many many many lights of the same color temperature but different tints and I am certain below the bbl tint looks faaaarrrr better than above the bbl tint. Somehow above the bbl makes things look very tinted. The yellow/green is very obvious especially for warmer CCT. Below the bbl, the tint looks more neutral and even far below the bbl such as 219B 9080 still looks more pleasing and neutral than above the bbl tint.
You need to keep in mind that looking at pictures on a screen and comparing beams with your own eyes are completely different. You might see a 4000k beamshot that makes everything very yellow on the screen but in real life especially at night when your eyes are adjusted to warm white fixtures, that 4000k actually looks pure white or even with a bit of cold blue. Your eyes also adjust to tint as well as CCT. You really need to compare the beamshots in person on real objects such as a very messy desk (like mine), dirt and faunda, hardwood floor etc. and not just against a plain wall to see the difference. After comparing literally over a hundred flashlights, I now know exactly what tint, CCT, and CRI (R9) is good for what applications.
I thought 3 or 4 but got distracted and didn’t vote. I would also like to thank my IPS monitor!
SNAP!
I didn’t end up voting, because I could not decide. The crayons were pretty saturated colors, which combined with the limited color space of most monitors and the sRGB standard, meant even for the worst light it was hard to tell between the red channel being maxed out, or just close.
On the other hand, when you get really bad CRI, and especially combined with a very cool color temperature, you get this:
Alive and Dead at the same time
I have never, in all my time enjoying the outdoors, found myself lamenting the ugly green tint of real daylight.
However, when comparing lights of various of various CRI’s and Duv’s under similar situations, I do find a preference to stay at or very slightly below the BBL.
You always say this…
I start to wonder where you got your 219C from.
Must admit, the 3000K and 2700K i got from Clemence i find way too green too.
But not the 3500K and above.
Although my first impression of the 4000K in a C8 with OP reflector was very disappointing.
Definitely positive DUV in the corona. Not nice.
But i love them in a TIR optic.
I’ve only ever had two 219C lights ,but both were green. 1 was a Manker E14 straight from Manker (5000k R9050), the other was a D4S from Intl Outdoor (5000k R9050).
Hmmm…
I think i bought the quad board with optic from Intl Outdoor…
Not tested yet, but i like the ones from the horrible Astrolux S42.
Will test the IO ones soon then…
Hope it’s the same tint as the S42 ones.