Wish I could have been more helpful though. This vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xISREg1YcRA, shows the UI as click ON, click thru modes, click&hold for OFF - pretty common sequence.
Think turbo is dbl click. So, turbo is the full dual FET's, while high appears to be the full 16x7135 bank of FET's. Stock on a LK fully charged I measured 13.2 amps w/clamp meter, and 5.45A on high (5.6A max on 16x7135's). Adding spring bypasses, gave it a bump, 14 to 15.5 amps.
With SST-40 CW's:
Stock: 4640 lms at start, 4280 at 30 secs, 36 kcd (thin magnet on batt+ end)
After spring bypasses, solder blob topped LK cell: 5240 lms @start, 4680 lms @30 secs, 40 kcd
After driver NarsilM mod, solder blob topped LK cell: 17.5A tail, 5720 lms at start, 4980 at 30 secs
Lots of pros for this light, but here's some concerns/cons:
- tailcap is kind of strange with no spring -- see video linked above at about the 14:30 mark. Though the vid is in German, you can see what's goin on.
- no-spring tail means you may have to do some fiddling with magnets for typical flat top 26650's
- side switch protrudes a little and is fairly stiff, least on mine
Why, why did they leave out a tail spring? Looks like there's machining to support it, but no slight impression that would hold one in place. Why would they sell a light like this? Dunno -- maybe we can beg/plead they fix this because of you are not a modder, I can see this being a major issue.
More pics:
Did I forget to mention I like hot peppers?
I did find some more pics not yet posted. Stripped the stock driver and used it as a contact board:
This Bob Smith 2 part epoxy has been working great, keeps the piggyback driver low:
My notes on the stock tests and spring bypasses (2 - on driver and on the USB-C charging board):
Notes on the mods:
Ordered from Neal, original box, lanyard, spare lens, and o-rings. Think there was no manual, not sure. The LK cell I used for testing:
After the mod:
This is the strange culprit. Usually they have a groove on the inside of that raised ring so a spring can snap in, but this doesn't have one. I'd almost say they simply left it out of my light but the German vid shows the same thing:
I'd really, really want to check sources to see if they addressed this. Again, not really a problem for me. There doesn't seem to be a downside w/magnets. I even used 3 of them and got even better amps/output -- check my notes. Not sure, but don't think I ever brought this up with Neal - I should have...
More pics in my NA40 album here: photobucket.com NightWatchNA40
Edit:
Ohh- -- let's hope they fixed the tailcap already??
Mine doesn't have the NA40SE labeling, so maybe it's a NA40 problem before the fixes? Here's some info on the SE upgrade: https://m4dm4x.com/nightwatch-avaritia-na40-se-updated-version/
Judging by the pics, mine is definitely a NA40, not the SE version, because mine has the gap at the bezel.