What did you mod today?

Sweet. Love the centre. Did you make the adaptor?

Pinkpanda, nice stuff, will continue to what with excitment (and envy.)

Enjoyed your earlier 21700 light as well, hope you finally got some cells to power that beauty :wink:


Reflowed a couple of SST-20 4000K 95+CRI into a CF8… now its warm and tight, the way I like it (but probably not as bright on Max.)

Yeh, I made the adaptor because I didn’t want to use the body to hold the head for turning as it is a soft metal. The head is ti.

Thanks mate. Yeh, I got a couple cells eventually for the 21700 light. Looking back now that was a pretty simple build in comparison to this one.

Another day and another pocket destroyed by my Emisar D4. Oops! Even with my switch button trim I still had an accidental pocket activation. GRRRR.

To try to protect my remaining pants from the Emisar deep fry, this time I tried something new:

Flip up switch cover for Emisar D4.

  • The cover is made from 0.032” aluminum sheet for the main piece with 0.016” for the hinge.
  • The hinge pin is a piece of copper rod I had laying around bent into the shape of a staple.
  • I drilled 2 holes in the top of the head for the hinge pints. They aren’t very deep. Maybe 3 mm or so.
  • I used Fiberfix optical super glue to hold the whole thing together. I accidentally got some glue on the top of the switch boot. Looks unsightly but has no affect on operation so I’ll probably leave it.
  • The sides of the cover grip the sides of the head keeping the cover securly in position while closed.
  • I removed the anodizing from the aluminum head so it would match the aluminum cover. I also polished the bare aluminum on both the cover and the head.
  • When the cover is closed the switch cannot be depressed. The cover can be flipped up or down with a quick thumb action.

Hopefully this will protect my pants pockets from being burned.

@pinkpanda3310
Really nice work! I envy you!!!
A lathe could make things so much easier. But on the other hand it would end up in me spending much more hours now not only modding lights. No now i had to build them. Maybe i should be lucky to no longer having access to a lathe :smiley:

What is with the electronic lockout? Doesnt it have this?
The lack of anodisation is not verry good for such a flashlight at all.

I finally took a beam shot that included the Luxeon MZ build from the below quote in case anyone was curious, far right:

WB=5500K, ISO=125

Some work on the tail…

:open_mouth: That’s looking pretty nice :wink:

The ti D4 does lock out with tail unscrewed because the current path does not use the cap, it goes directly from the insulated tailboard to the battery tube.

I like this alot……. Love the tapered head! How much with shipping to the States when your done? :+1: Edit: DIBS!

I replaced the quad with a triple luxeon V2 and polished the body of my Sinner Gen1 aluminum host. Went from ~40% optics loss with the downsized quad to a respectable 16% optics loss with the unmolested carlco triple. Using 22AWG wire and no spring bypass its running 2.6A/led and doing 2563 lemons, down 2.6A and up 313lm from when it was a quad!

I’ve got pcb’s coming for a new driver for it, once those get here and I take it apart again I’m going to try to find a better fitting O-ring for the lens, I think that may be robbing a lemon or two (it’ll also get 18AWG then and spring bypasses for unrestricted turbo since it’s a 3ch driver so it’ll have a regulated high mode).

I like this one, it looks like how it looked before polishing but it was taken today, I had dropped it into the snow, picked it up and blew it off and it steamed up from my breath, not actually a before pic at all.

Shipping is a lot cheaper to me in Australia. :slight_smile:

Are you enjoying the build pp?

True…but I edited my post….

:slight_smile:

CK, nice mod! I've seen similar results with triples getting about the same as quads.

Ohhh - I received the first batch of 3 of the ZY-T11 clone OSHPark drivers and started on them. I cut down the small Blue BeCu springs, expanded the spring pads a bit (scraped off some surrounding soldermask). Also sanded down the edge of the board in front of the switch - not sure if it was necessary or not. Fitted the bare driver in - looks good so far. It's thicker than the stock driver but should be ok. In the past I've used the Maxtoch 26 mm MCPCB's and UCLp lenses from flashlightlens.com, but kind of drives up the cost of the mod. I've also used a copper slug of some sorts under the shelf, but the stock shelf isn't all that bad. These are old pics below:

Woke up this Bored and Stroked Surefire 6P with a Copper (kiriba-ru) P60 Quad (hand fit to a press fit) pill using Lumileds V2 2x5000k by 2x6500k on a Mtn Quad mcpcb, Mtn. FET+1 Infineon FET driver Guppydrv3 with 18awg Leads.

A Surefire Z59 modded KAN9 tail cap Fwd. click, pulling just over 18amps at the tail for 4500+lms. on a VTC5A.

I Left the shoulder inside battery tube, (instead of boring thru) to retain/stop the battery from slamming into the driver, one of Blue’s springs in the tail cap with 18awg bypass covers the 6P’s six.

Borofloat double AR coated glass lens in the Z44 head.

A Wolf in Sheep’s clothing if you will…I used to have a Pro Built ( Corky’s Competition) 498 cubic inch Bored/Stroked (under the hood) Dual Quad Olds 442 in primer that was the same way…. :wink:

Oh, I do... And it's a beautiful beam, too.

Body: Nitecore HC33
LED: XHP50 90CRI 4500K
Driver: Caerus 1.7h
Lens: Carclo 10140





Nice mod Tamagotchi. Do you have any more info on the driver?