【convoy】H4 and B35AM options are updated

Cree XP-L HI and XM-L2 5D tint should be available in 80 CRI as well, go and check the manufacturer documents :slight_smile:

+1 for please do not remove the knurling. I love them this way.

For the OP reflector, if replacement of XM-L2 emitters is considered, I would like to recommend Samsung LH351D, because that is an emitter with larger light emitting surface, and while it does not have 95 CRI options, it still has 90 CRI options for almost all preferable CCTs (6000K as well!)

For throwier lights, LH351C and LH351B is smaller and cheaper (but also can be less powerful).

Personally, I would be fine with SST-20 (page 6) FA2 tint as well, as it is closer to the black body line, but still a little bit under it. Also, I would like to request a GD2 tint, as it could be a very nice mildly warm white - and a JD3 tint could be also interesting for people who seek very low blue light emission (even more eye friendly), but still high CRI.

Fireflies has been using FA2, and it still tests above the BBL. FA2 isn’t bad. Even FB4 isn’t bad, but to be reliably not green, it has to be FA1/FA4.

Interesting, I have a clear ano S2+ flashlight with a 1750mA (5×7135) driver, and I use the ‘kaidomain FB4’ SST-20 emitter. I get visibly more rosy tint with it than with a Fireflies ROT-66 FA2 on even turbo setting.
I just hope, they didn’t receive FB2 instead of FA2 :slight_smile:

Probably for SST-20, the tint is very much dependent on the driving current, and as it goes higher, it turns more rosy.

Maybe then it would worth to get FA1 tint. I would still like GD2 and JD3 very much :slight_smile:

@zak, Fireflies has been using the FA3 chromacity tint bin.

Most of what is listed in the spec sheet are unfortunately unavailable for purchase in small quantities. There are very few Cree 5A 5D tint hi CRI emitters that can be bought by small consumers. I did buy a XHP70.2 5D 80CRI from Kaidomain and it has a nice rosy tint but such emitters are rare to come by.

Using chrome material to process knurling, the defect rate is very high. If I don’t process knurling, I may reduce the cost by 1/3.

removing knurling doesnt mean smooth surface , i will consider “grip” ,too

Yes, I can supply clear version

Thanks ,buddy, i will add 7135*8 option for C8+ and S2+ nicha 219C flashlights soon :blush:

If you have problems making enough profit it would be a better idea to slightly rise the price of your products or stop implementing rising cost improvements such as new copper pills etc. in favour of maintaining the current build quality and knurling.

See your lights are popular because they offer very high quality for a decent price, not because they offer low quality for a low price.

I personally would like to see project of S2+ with no knurling. There are various manufacturers that don’t use it (Zebralight, Armytek) and people are not complaining about low build quality or lack of grip on their products.
I’d much rather have copper pill than knurling if I could choose.

Will a cool white luminus LED be available for this someday? Or would that be an SST-40?

OK, this is going to be a post which will probably heat up some discussion…

Copper is overrated, brass or aluminium wil do just fine
Especially for a S2+, it doesn’t matter much, since the flashlight is just to small to dissipate the heat very well, so it will gain maybe a couple of seconds in heat transfer.

The power of Convoy is that the quality of your products is always good and the design doesn’t change suddenly, (like what happens with other Chinese sellers, to reduce cost and get a higher profit rate) so all available spare parts always fit. (as is not always the fact with other Chinese sellers)

So, to reduce the price, please only remove knurling and keep using the existing pill, which is good enough.
Please get rid of the 3/5 mode driver and ONLY use biscotti

A smooth S2+, i can live with that.

Zebralight does use knurling on the SC600 handheld models, which are still way smaller then the S2+. Armytek doesn’t even know how to proper assemble their lights so adding knurling is probably too difficult. And objectively a plain tube without knurling will be more slippery in wet conditions then a knurled one, or when used with gloves.

Have you done any testing to compare it? Do you have data to back this up? I timed my copper host S2+ compared to aluminum regular and high mode can be maintained at least twice as long without burning. Output also drops slower when measuring lumens with copper pills compared with brass pills when using triples.

yes ,i have SST40 LED in stock now ,but driver is not ready,yet

I think I misrepresented what I meant.
First of all, I will not reduce the quality of the product. The current knurling is difficult to process, and one third of the products will be scrapped directly.
I don’t meant to make a smooth surface.
I just want to change a style, on the one hand, it will improve the product yield, on the other hand, keep the original feel of grip.
For example, I can change it to the following