Heres an Unboxing i did, - YouTube, nit a bad light tint isnt to good, but i guess its typical for the LEDs, other then that i like it.
the thing that makes me kinda mad is how soon it happens lol. i just got this light for a few weeks. if it is infact intertwined springs, i guess its better to have normal springs with bypass… since i think the double springs are for making sure it can handle high current right?
Here's mine, pics I just took.
Used a P1 size and worked pretty easy. Screws appear to be decent quality but can't be sure:
Inner springs are fairly large. Together, they are pretty stiff:
A large "Blue" spring compared to the stock springs. This is the spring I would replace them with. Stiffness and height seem to match up well, but the stock springs compress tighter - the inner compresses well inside the outer and at max compression, they are pretty flat. For the large Blue spring, the rings appear to stack up, not fit inside each other. It's really how the spring is shaped:
The screws came out clean:
For the pic, somehow a fuzz ball got in the top of the Blue spring. This is going to be a downside for the Blue springs I would think - protected cells may not fit. True conical shapes get full compression, but the Blue BeCu springs are more cylindrical shaped.
@white7561: so you quit because of some stuck screws? If you want to go forth with getting the spring back to functioning they will just have to get out.
Welp. Lucky you. Anyways. Either I got a defective holder springs or luck is not on my side lol
Well here’s the thing. Normal way doesn’t work as you can see. If I went to “destructive” power to open it and something went wrong . That’s it. I can’t use it anymore like at all. I don’t even know if they would send me a replacement batt holder.
No luck so far with the wire loop method to open it up. The solder keeps giving way. Using 16 AWG wire - maybe the solder is not bonding well? It's not cleanly coming off the brass ring though, every time, but once it did. I'll try cranking up the iron heat more. Maybe I should let it cool off for a while?
How many people will buy SP36 Anduril with XPL2 5000K ? Maybe 80 CRI according to the availability from supplier.
I’d consider a second one. It sounds like a winner.
Hey Sofirn. Please answer my AliExpress PM. I have a problem with defective battery holder on my SP36
Sorry for the slow reply, please Check the PM, and do not worry any warranty of Sofirn lights.
We have finished weekend and start work today in out time.
Yes I’ve PMed back. Thank you so much
I would buy one.
In my opinion 80 CRI is the best compromise colour rendering for high output flashlights so if 80 CRI: 
.
Sofirn, does your supplier give a tint bin for the 5000K 80 CRI XP-L2? Or at least a Cree order code?
I’m not committing yet to buying one though.
I don’t like the xpl2 tint shift
My SP36 has xpl hi 5000k and the beam is very nice
I’d like to try it with SST20
The attraction of XP-L2 is of course the output in direct drive, this will justify the yellow corona for many especially non-flashoholics, no other 3535 led will get you so much light (although the Samsung LH351D comes close, a 80CRI variant of it would be a good choice also).
My SP36 now houses sliced 4000K 90CRI LH351D leds, makes 3500K in 93CRI and has great tint. But I’m down to under 3000 lumen now so that comes at quite a price. That is why I see 80CRI as a good compromise.
This is killing me... Has anyone taken/posted pics of the driver? Wondering if there's space I could drill in to. I think only 2, maybe 3, have gotten out the driver - any pics, please?
I applied a fair amount of force with a soft handled screwdriver before the wires solder joints gave way, oh boy.
If I destroy the driver, I'd lose the USB charging for a replacement. Will Sofirn be selling drivers like they do for the Q8, some other lights?
That would be another option - simply destroy removing the stock driver, pop in a replacement with no glue -- sounds good to me...
These XP-L2's gotta go, though it would be nice to retain USB charging.
You did try the solder-a-loop-to-the-brass-ring method, right? (see post 62 of this thread, someone else managed the same with a thick copper wire). I had to use my 80W (quality!) solder iron with massive chisel-shape tip to get the heat quick enough into the brass to solder the loop and not unsolder the brass ring. The loop held and the driver glue gave in.
Yes - used 16 AWG wire, nice rubber handled screw driver, this one shown below. No pics, but I soldered the wire little towards the side away form the USB connector, fearing I might damage it when the driver loosens. The solder is what broke, not the wire, nor the brass ring. I had a lot of solder on there, but didn't get a chance yet, but will try again using a big iron tip and more heat. The Hakko FX-888 was set to about 710F, but can go up to 900F.
Hakko FX-888 (prior to the FX-888D model) I use:
I did swap out the stock dual springs for the large Blue BeCu ones (no bypasses) and measured a slight boost in lumens using the same VTC6 cells. So slight, hard to say whether it was a real boost or not based on typical measuring variables. Only other difference was added solder to the tail PCB on the screw holes where they lay up against the alum battery tube, and added NO-OX-ID on the screw contact surfaces.