Yellowish( egg colored ) tints, too blue tints
Turbo for less than 1 minute
Fading/oxidation
lights only uses CR123A
poor anodizing
finicky control buttons
Yellowish( egg colored ) tints, too blue tints
Turbo for less than 1 minute
Fading/oxidation
lights only uses CR123A
poor anodizing
finicky control buttons
Include me as one finding it difficult to understand the position of some posts.
Has this turned into a complaint thread ?
Are we still supposed to treat it as an unpopular opinion thread ?
Should there be a popular complaint thread ?
Bravo!
Agreed. Some fantastic unpopular opinion have been posted, though there may be a fine line between a unpopular opinion and a complaint that we should observe.
To add to the theme of the thread; I believe the Manker have the best UIs in the business.
Tint > CRI and Armytek > Zebralight
The ‘always starts on lowest’ ramping UI from the first Emisar D4 prototypes (vers. 1) sent to RMM is a valuable model to avoid burned pockets, holsters, and damage to the retinas of unsuspecting innocents.
A short single press is not the only way to access turbo flamethrower or memory modes.
1-click to turn on, click again to change mode and hold to turn off isn't that bad as long as you only have to hold less than 1 second.
Flashlights in pure white look absolutely beautiful, something like Led Lenser F1 White Edition's white not Haikelite or Emisar's white.
Flashlights with optic look more expensive than flashlights with reflector.
Best UI I have ever seen is on the Nitecore MT10A/MT10C. A tail switch to turn on, 2 side switch to change mode higher or lower with shortcut to lowest mode and highest mode right from off without having parasitic drain from the e-switch working.
And finally, too floody flashlight is kind of useless. If you want a flood light, all you need is a diffuser or some tapes on the lens.
The market pressures eliminating Sunwayman from the available stock of the most popular flashaholic suppliers in the USA represent a step backwards in many regards.
Design and innovation, art and ‘understated’ conservative output claims have not had long legs.
Andy Xie is a production engineer and businessman with rare goals and talents.
Fortunately, from the beginning, the security of military purchases has provided income for artistic expression, keeping Andy’s Sunwayman in business.
I don’t get the hype about copper. Especially when I see green patina rot that looks like the light has been in a sunken greek tradeship for 2000 years. If I want my nice EDC light be a bit heavy, I will take Stainless Steel every time.
That being said, I proclaim the Thrunite T10S the best EDC light of all time.
copper [and brass] makes your fingers smell funny
not funny ha- ha, either
wle
I have yet to use fire fly or moon light mode.
I love Olight hosts and UIs, but their emitters make me want to ‘emit’.
I hate smooth hosts. My Thrunite T10ti would be a great EDC, but it’s like trying to hang into a fish. (P.S. Major scientific discovery - hockey tape won’t stick to titanium!)
Best UI I have ever seen is on the Nitecore MT10A/MT10C. A tail switch to turn on, 2 side switch to change mode higher or lower with shortcut to lowest mode and highest mode right from off without having parasitic drain from the e-switch working.
Looking at that UI reminds me of another unpopular opinion of mine:
Depends what you need. Any light that has shortcuts to highest/lowest is useful, and memory can be used repeatedly for on/off use without having to ramp/step each’n’every time.
Eg, the way I use my MH20 is to be able to shortcut to lowest with a halfpress’n’hold, brightest with fullpress’n’hold, simple click to anywhere in-between.
One of the SP10s has press’n’hold to lowest, and N-click to brightest. Same dealy.
Other lights, I reset them to lowest if there’s no shortcut to lowest, then cycle through. Force of habit, not much effort to do it once it gets ingrained into you.
Seems like I did it right and it is an unpopular opinion.
Depends what you need. Any light that has shortcuts to highest/lowest is useful, and memory can be used repeatedly for on/off use without having to ramp/step each’n’every time.
Eg, the way I use my MH20 is to be able to shortcut to lowest with a halfpress’n’hold, brightest with fullpress’n’hold, simple click to anywhere in-between.
One of the SP10s has press’n’hold to lowest, and N-click to brightest. Same dealy.
Other lights, I reset them to lowest if there’s no shortcut to lowest, then cycle through. Force of habit, not much effort to do it once it gets ingrained into you.
That’s what I mean by working around. Single click is by far the easiest and most natural action on a flashlight. I don’t use single click on the Olight. I don’t use single click on the D4 either. Because it is just output lottery. So I use double click for turbo/high. And I am forced to press and hold the switch for moonlight on the Olight (for ages, it appears) and then have to press it again for ages just to enter low mode. Holding it for too long enters lockout mode btw. It’s kinda frustrating. If I could, I would just set it to always turn on in low mode. Press and hold would than be moon, single click low, double click high/turbo. Still love the M2R for everything else. But yeah. Unpopular opinion is unpopular. At least make it a configurable option. Which it is not in the vast majority of lights.
P.S.: I really like this thread. Many otherwise unvoiced opinions, ideas and flashlights.
Yeah, but I was saying that if you’re, say, looking under the hood of your car and only need the light every now and then, do you really have to choose between keeping it on all the time to stay at the same setting, or every time you use it, have to ramp-up to the brightness you want?
Unless I’m using a 1-mode light (like I have for ages, my trusty ’502), I’d prefer the flexibility.
For my Cometa, though, yeah, memory’s off, because most times I use it late at night when I only want moonlight.
NiMH is good enough for most flashlight needs.
Any light bigger than 1xAA/1xCR123 is too big for EDC.
Muyshondt lights are perhaps the most overrated flashlights in history and the cult of personality on non-budget flashlight forums around them is insane and approaches a level of fanboyism usually reserved for Star Wars and Apple products. They’re very good lights (Aeon owner speaking from experience) but they aren’t perfect, or even great, and they’re barely worth 1/3 of what they sell for.
The Nichia 219C has rendered the Cree XP series of emitters obsolete for EDC purposes.
1xAAA lights are too big to be keychain lights.
Friction fit clips are fine.
Buying primary lithium batteries is a waste of money when rechargeables are readily available.
People only use 10440s/14500s in their lights because they want to look like cool hotrodders, not because it’s any more useful than 1.5v or 1.2v cells.
If I can jump to the lowest and the highest setting from off, mode memory is a complete waste of time and battery life.
I love the designs of hanko's flashlights....
I still keep my unmodded NovaTac 120P by my bedside and put it to use periodically. I was tempted to mod it, but decided against it — it’s actually quite fine as stock. Doesn’t need to be super bright, or super efficient.