What did you mod today?

Thank you for your help.

Nicely done, chad!

Thank You. It needs some tweeks. Drivers from lexel (1- –3+fet)showed up today and my MTelectronics order. Got in hurry and flashed it with the wrong version of Anduril.

Needs a few tweaks, I am having fun :smiley:

I properly focused a thrower for the first time.

Convoy C8
SMO reflector
Osram “white flat” 1mm²
MOSLED 3030 MCPCB
L4P LD-B4 driver set to 4.5A CC

I 3D printed some gasket with different base thickness to adjust the height of the reflector.

After a few try, I got about 155kCd @10m but I have to make some more precise measurement with a laser meter.

The gaskets are made of PLA which is not ideal given the high temperature but I already planned to print some ABS ones for the next batch.
Now that I saw a 25% increase in intensity I want to do the same for my Amutorch JM70 (FET driver, 2mm² White Flat but only 470kCd ATM)

Hi all.
I want to present the custom. I made it together with Tamagotchi.
Driver Caerus(2,4A)
XHP50.2 (3000K 90cri)
aluminium polished
button with indication(blue)


That is great design k_4 ! An oldschool look with great details, different from everything else. Nice.

And welcome to BLF :party:

Thank you.
i hope , that it just the beginning))

Looks like a lot of work on that body. Very nice :+1:

+1 on what the others have said. Lovely light and welcome to BLF k_4. :beer:

I took 3 rather plain looking Idaho potatoes and turned them into a golden pile of crisp heavenly French Fries, with Sea Salt on them. My son did the high pitched Nirvana sound….

Ooh, gimme.

I told Daniel that next time I need to just double up on the fries and forget the hamburger. :wink: Simply cannot believe how good these things are! :heart_eyes:

Literally modded a bunch of sh*t I picked up off of the floor into something that should turn out pretty awesome I hope. Behold the can of mystery…

Loosen the bezel a little just when I smack the head side the reflector is able to move a little. Not complete rattling just it can slip a little. I powered the light on and raised above my head pointing to the floor with loosened bezel and looked the beam and smacked the head lightly and tightened down a few times the bezel until I was happy with the result. I didn’t used glue and it only took a minute.

A teaser for now until I can write a proper post. I managed to short 2 BeCu springs so I dont have enough energy after “repairs” to go into details tonight!

Lucky dip… :question:

Looks interesting contactcr

This is a special one, nearly all of the parts were made possible through other forum members in one way or another.

The light that BLF built:

Host Sofirn C8F 21700 (host version avail. thanks to BLF)
Spacer Prototype AL spacer from kiriba-ru
MCPCB LED4Power 3535 ANNA6
Driver Lexel’s 21mm C8F version TA FET+N+1
includes more clearance for the retaining ring
Optic Ledil ANNA-40-7-S
Springs BlueSword’s BeCu spring
LEDs 3x LH351D 4000K 90CRI from AEDe group buy
3x LH351D 5000K 90CRI from DigiKey

Some quick measurements:

18650 VTC5D
21.x amps
5,693lm at 0s

21700 VTC6A
5,851lm at 0s

21700 30T
6,479lm at 0s
22.5 amps at ~30s

Pictures:

Sloppy re-flow I had to do twice cause I used way too much solder paste. It’s hard to “tap” excess solder from 6 LEDs, 2 pads, 1 jumper in a reasonable amount of time. Note I jumpered the FET and left off the LD-x4 specific parts (temp sensor, FET, JST connector)

The C8F usually has a small tapped screw hole in the middle which holds the reflector and MCPCB to shelf from underneath. I drilled it out with a 15/64 bit, I could have used smaller but I left it big in case I want to add larger LED wires or use the signal wires if LED4Power releases and e-switch driver some day. In this picture I have a small blue spring but I ended up turning it upside down cause I think it’s too tight to prevent shorts this way.

Don’t forget your TWO layers of thermal paste. You could use thermal adhesive but I have no balls. Also, the spacer has some play so you would want the whole stack to be centered first if you went this route. You could also hold it like this if you have trouble soldering the LED wires but I didn’t bother. Those coated pads + a big honkin chisel tip will do the job.

Since i’m using a 7 LED optic on this 6 LED board the wire placement is something you need to fiddle with. The unused center TIR caresses your wires lovingly.

In order to seat the optic all the way down the edges press right up against the head of the light. If I remove the bezel again I will probably have to wedge the TIR out with a screwdriver. If that’s the case I think I will sand the TIR slightly to give it more room. It’s terrifying screwing on the bezel snug. Everything rotates some and I worry I will either crush something or bunch up the LED wires. I did it anyway, YOLO. It survived.

I did some tint mixing since I didn’t have 6 of the LEDs I wanted to use. The beam is nice, there is a defined and very even hotspot. You would never know the middle LED was not used. I suspected as much since Ledil makes this same optic with 3~~, 4~~, 5~~, 6~~ and 7-lens versions.

I had zero issues testing with various 18650’s but when I moved to 21700’s I ended up shorting something and melting a blue spring in seconds. This is when I put a new one on but this time upside down. I think my tail spring is too long and stiff also so I will play with cell spacing and refine this.

Heat doesn’t seem to be a big issue and not using DTP for the MCPCB seems fine as well. Further testing needed here as I only tested turbo in ~1m increments. The light never got too hot to hold even after several 30s-1m turbo runs with a 30T. There is a lot of mass in this thing after all.

When I first saw that picture, I couldn’t tell what it was. I was thinking maybe it was a bowl of greens and he’d taken a picture of his lunch! :wink: Especially since the previously posted picture was of some french fries.

Box of washers I ordered arrived much faster than anticipated. Guess it’s time to start modding. :disappointed:

Goal is to:

  • file down the bottom of the washers so the bases are smaller and the washers don’t stick up so much,
  • expand the interior hole by inserting long-nosed pliers and then expanding the jaws, and
  • glue them onto side-switch flashlights around the button with Arctic Alumina to help reduce the chance of accidental pocket activation.

I ordered #14 nickel-plated brass finishing washers. Hopefully that’s what’s in the box I got (box just says “nickel”). I definitely want nickel-plated brass as the brass is easy to file and work with, while the nickel plating is durable and looks great.

Lights I have in mind for this mod are the Emisar D4 and Fireflies E07. I’ve previously done this mod using #10 nickel plated brass finishing washers on a DQG 18650 Tiny III and got fairly good results. Looks classy and worked well.

Biggest disadvantage of this mod is that if the head of the light heats up around the switch, the metal finishing washer filled with thermal adhesive is going to heat up too. This can make for ouchy on your thumb when trying to turn off the light if the ring gets too hot. A plastic finishing washer would probably be more functional but would look much, MUCH worse.

Really nice C8F mod! The ledil anna looks like a nice optic with good frontal coverage. Better than the optic used in the fireflies E07.