Pretty sure you never made it to turbo. Double click and re-test.
Scratch that, I know how particular you are about CCT and DUV so I KNOW you never made it since you didnāt mention the shift 
Ofcourse I know double click for turbo. I was expecting lumens to be higher too and I tested it with serveral different 21700 VTC6A, 40T, and 30T and got the same measurement. If you donāt have the Maukka calibrated lights, I suggest you get a set because you will be surprised how much lower real ANSI lumens are. I had to scrap the hundreds of previous measurements I made prior to my current TA tube calibrated with Maukka lights.
I know about the DUV shift a long time ago. I have over half a dozen lights running the SST-20W 95CRI 3000k from Kaidomain. DUV drops significantly with higher output. This is actually pretty typical for all emitters. I see the same with 219B, 219C, LH351D, Oson Square, Cree emitters, etc. Thatās why for me I rather get the rosiest bin possible in multi emitter lights because I usually use my lights at lower outputs for efficiency and at low output, even 219B 9080 or 5A/5D tinted lights are at or just below the BBL for perfect neutral tint.
Hey, fair enough. I didnāt even measure I just guessed it would be closer to how the 4000K measures but I guess you really do lose that much going to a 3K bin.
Thatās because the 3000k tint bins are only available in J3 flux bin, and cheaper bins are available in J2 flux bin. They probably picked the J2 here.
The 4000k tint bins are available in J5 flux in contrast.
Got mine with 3000K SST-20, and get a bit over 600 lumen on āturboā. It was an impulse buy and although the build quality and led choice is very nice, Iām not really sure if it adds a lot to what I already have (but then, what other flashlight does do that?).
At least the SST-20 is doing its thing, produces a very attractive beam and at low mode in the hotspot I measure 97.8 CRI, R9=88, 2960K and duv ā0.0008. At higher modes the CRI is slightly lower but with rosier tint.
Iām still trying to figure what the merit is of extreme CRI in a throwy flashlight 
Can you put in the effort to swap in a white flat and see what needs to be done to focus it? Save me some time 
Also, is the driver side end of your battery tube anodized? That seems strange to me. I almost want to sand it down and let it contact directly with retaining ring. 
Should be fun. In a Lucky Sun D80 that has the same reflector diameter I got 140kcd with the White Flat, I reckon that this reflector is slightly better, but I have no idea if the current will be correct.
No promises about when thoughā¦
The threads on the driver side are bare in my copy, both with the 18650 and 21700 tube.
My threads are bare too. Iām talking about the flat end.
I see, yes they are anoāed. I expect it not to matter though, enough contact between the threads.
The CCT doesnāt make a difference in output. Itās the flux bin that matters. Warmer CCT are usually limited to lower flux bins. I measured many NW versions of the same flashlight brighter than CW version. For example I measured output of several E07 and to my surprise the NW one measured brighter than CW.
So itās all about the flux bin.
I understand, but after looking at the datasheet the flux bins are very linear with the tint. The highest flux bin 3000K is not even as bright as the lowest bin 4000K. I realize this doesnāt apply to all LEDs.
Just for the record, I have one of these just in with SST-20 emitter. It is EXTREMELY WELL BUILT, overbuilt really and is a quite nice small thrower.
There seems to be Two threads on this light.
I am also getting[Thursday supposedly]the SST-20 3000K. His website states that the light is 1250 lumens on MAX[TURBO]
1. Are you saying that you got 600 lumens on TURBO w/ the same light I am getting?!
I hope not, I would be extremely disappointed and even more so because I just bought a 50-E and have no other 21700 lights to use.
If it is LED lumens, 1250 LED lumens is a LOT more than 600 OTF.
Maybe I am missing something,something is not right.
@wolfdog, the 1250 lumens measure is based on the 5000k/6500k version.
The high CRI 4000k/3000k version will get lower lumen numbers.
1,250 is only going to be achievable with the low CRI 5000K or 6500K. The 3000K is going to max out at 800 āLED Lumensā and even less since this light isnāt driving it at the absolute max.
I think the hype train made a stop at your house and your ticket was punched.
Thanks,well NEALE needs to make that clear on his website. I was not familiar w/ that led. This is what he lists! He needs to break it down by color temp. or say this is for 5000K 6000K ect.
TOTALLY INACCURATE AND MISLEADING!
Details:
1.LED:SST20
Output:1250lm
Beam Intensity:90,000CD
Distanceļ¼600m
Modes:L (0.1A)-M (1.5A)-H (3A)-T (5A)
Yes, my Nightwatch Seeker runs at 5.13 A at turbo, in my test of the 3000K SST-20 that is nicely close to max btw, and I measured 830 djozz-lumen, that should be 770 real lumen when compensated to maukkaās calibration. For a reflector light I usually take 82% off that for OTF estimation, which is 633 lumen. I just remeasured at 30 seconds: 643 (real) lumen, pretty close to expectation.
A low CRI cool SST-20 should be almost double that.
Very nice Djozz. You finally got a Maukka calibration light! 
Our measurements are (edit: ānowā) comparable. I measured 638 lumens.