I seem to have an underperforming light . I bought 2 . One is an XLP 6500k . The other is an SST20 5000k. The XPL will hit 6800 lms at turn on . ( TA meter ) The SST will only reach around 1500 at turn on with fresh charged 40T . I have cleaned all connections , tried different batteries , It drops very quickly 2 seconds after turn on . Down to like 500 lms.
I have not checked thermal configuration . After seeing DB’s post of no thermal paste , I am not sure what the safe , maximum temp I can set it at . Also , does this seem like it may be the the cause of this lights problems ? ( thermal config )
I so want one of these, on the other hand, I so don’t! Maybe in 6 months time…… nearly all the feedback on Fireflies lights seems to be 50/50 on quality/problems etc. Still this can only mean better things to come.
Thank you Jack, yes I do understand all that… the thing is though the MCPCB has hard square edges on the bottom of the board and is made to fit very exactly into the head of the light. On the other hand, the light has rounded edges where the walls meet the emitter shelf. This prevents the MCPCB from sitting down onto the emitter shelf and making good firm contact. With such a thin film of thermal paste applied to the emitter shelf, nothing touches the MCPCB. Heat is forced to travel into the mass of the head through the extremely small contact points where the corners meet. Not ideal at all.
The fix is a simple bevel of the MCPCB, so it can sit all the way down onto the Aluminum shelf. OR, a slight reduction in the overall diameter of the MCPCB. OR, a square cut between the shelf and walls of the head. It’s really such a very small bit of contact blocking correct fitment. The copper MCPCB is thick and robust, well done on that, and also why the light still works as is.
My E07 Nichia also has this problem (Worried that the light glass is bursting…), it seems to happen in high brightness,
This one also has the broken off leg on the optic。 :person_facepalming: :cry:
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You can try to turn the top metal pressure ring away. Remove the TRI lens and adjust it to the installation.
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My E07 SST20 has no broken feet, but the TRI lens has a distinct bubble. :cry: :cry: :cry:
My XPL HI E07 also makes an occasional clicking sound. This happened a lot more when I first got the light. With time, this seems to have diminished. Maybe the sound is air under the star heating up?
In any event, it does not seem to affect performance in any way. My EO7 performs great.
You probably lose about 10% output but at some point when the battery is less than fully charged the 40T should pull ahead. Probably after about 1000mAh the 40T will start to be better.
Flashaholics, test see if you can take a reading every 15s for a full minute or something or possibly do 30s bursts in intervals and do like 4-5 of them. Should be interesting to see how things progress.
Note to the assembly team at Fireflies. Thermal paste is very important. My SST-20’s went blue in about 20 seconds on a 30T cell… gee, wonder why…
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dumb question here, but can someone please tell me what ‘went blue’ means. Does that mean kaput? Because in a later post I think I read that Dale indicated his light still works?
thanks.
and regarding Fireflies comment on cells, am I ok running my SST-20 on a 30Q cell without harming anything. Don’t want to ruin this nice light
Reset thermal to 60c. Still only hit 1400 lms and immediate drop to 500. Jack says it should hit 2300 high , 4800 turbo. (SST20 5000k ) Cleaned every thing checked everything I know to do . Anyone have a suggestion ?
(1) Double-check to make sure you aren’t in Muggle Mode (6 clicks).
(2) Remove star, bevel bottom edges of star, reinsert star with fresh thermal paste.
What battery are you using? Is it fully charged? Is it a high-discharge battery? Have you tried it in other lights? Perhaps try a different battery and see if you get the same result.