Thank you Jack, yes I do understand all that… the thing is though the MCPCB has hard square edges on the bottom of the board and is made to fit very exactly into the head of the light. On the other hand, the light has rounded edges where the walls meet the emitter shelf. This prevents the MCPCB from sitting down onto the emitter shelf and making good firm contact. With such a thin film of thermal paste applied to the emitter shelf, nothing touches the MCPCB. Heat is forced to travel into the mass of the head through the extremely small contact points where the corners meet. Not ideal at all.
The fix is a simple bevel of the MCPCB, so it can sit all the way down onto the Aluminum shelf. OR, a slight reduction in the overall diameter of the MCPCB. OR, a square cut between the shelf and walls of the head. It’s really such a very small bit of contact blocking correct fitment. The copper MCPCB is thick and robust, well done on that, and also why the light still works as is.
My E07 Nichia also has this problem (Worried that the light glass is bursting…), it seems to happen in high brightness,
This one also has the broken off leg on the optic。 :person_facepalming: :cry:
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You can try to turn the top metal pressure ring away. Remove the TRI lens and adjust it to the installation.
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My E07 SST20 has no broken feet, but the TRI lens has a distinct bubble. :cry: :cry: :cry:
My XPL HI E07 also makes an occasional clicking sound. This happened a lot more when I first got the light. With time, this seems to have diminished. Maybe the sound is air under the star heating up?
In any event, it does not seem to affect performance in any way. My EO7 performs great.
You probably lose about 10% output but at some point when the battery is less than fully charged the 40T should pull ahead. Probably after about 1000mAh the 40T will start to be better.
Flashaholics, test see if you can take a reading every 15s for a full minute or something or possibly do 30s bursts in intervals and do like 4-5 of them. Should be interesting to see how things progress.
Note to the assembly team at Fireflies. Thermal paste is very important. My SST-20’s went blue in about 20 seconds on a 30T cell… gee, wonder why…
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dumb question here, but can someone please tell me what ‘went blue’ means. Does that mean kaput? Because in a later post I think I read that Dale indicated his light still works?
thanks.
and regarding Fireflies comment on cells, am I ok running my SST-20 on a 30Q cell without harming anything. Don’t want to ruin this nice light
Reset thermal to 60c. Still only hit 1400 lms and immediate drop to 500. Jack says it should hit 2300 high , 4800 turbo. (SST20 5000k ) Cleaned every thing checked everything I know to do . Anyone have a suggestion ?
(1) Double-check to make sure you aren’t in Muggle Mode (6 clicks).
(2) Remove star, bevel bottom edges of star, reinsert star with fresh thermal paste.
What battery are you using? Is it fully charged? Is it a high-discharge battery? Have you tried it in other lights? Perhaps try a different battery and see if you get the same result.
As led’s overheat they suffer a [pretty drastic] blue shift. I.e. the lights CCT moves to a more cool white light and in extreme cases can even go to full on blue light.
I use to do some contract work for LedEngin testing some of their LZ1 emitters and experienced the full out blue shift then but that’s the most extreme case I’ve ever seen and the only time I actually saw a white led output blue light, the LED died quickly after that. Usually they only shift to more cool (but still white) light and will (again usually) still work after they cool back down when the shift isn’t as extreme.
I have a rot66 with similar problems. After several trials it now no longer turns on even the aux/switch leds. So if after you check for battery and contact problems the low output persists it may be a driver problem.
Even 5D tint varies from neutral to rosy. I have over half a dozen 5D tint lights and some are rosier than others. My Noctigon M43 with XP-G2 5D is far rosier than the M43 with XP-L HI 5D and even different XP-L HI 5D emitters produce varying levels of rosiness. The M43 with the XP-G2 5D is rosier than my 219B 4000k 9080 lights for most of the output range. None of the 5D tinted lights are greener than my E07 with the SST-20 4000k FA3 tint bin. You might want to get a M43 with the XP-G2 to compare. It is the cheapest version and also the brightest version per my measurements.
