I must say that I’m very disappointed with ROT66. If I bought it in local store, I will return it.
The problem is that returning FL to China is too expensive. So I’m stuck with this FL.
Can you calculate, measure how much power do all blue leds and swich leds consume together?
Thank you
Kind regarads
It can be measured with a common DMM / multimeter.
However, that may not be necessary because measurements have already been posted. It should have a standby time of 1.5 years to 9 years with the aux LEDs on all the time, depending on how you configure them. It can also be turned off entirely by using physical lock-out.
Why does this change your evaluation from “I love it” to “I’m very disappointed and want to return it”? It seems like a large reaction to a small problem.
I still love it but after I found out that small leds can not be turned OFF, I’m not so happy anymore.
This is my frist FL which has leds always ON and I don’t like this feature.
What is physical lock-out?
Can you please explain?
I now unwind tailcap to turn it OFF.
Thank you
Kind regards
Physical lockout is exactly what you do, physically open the circuit so no electronics are powered by the battery.
Ok, good to know. 
And if I understand correctly, internals can be rewired so that leds will not be on 24/7.
But for this procedure you must be expert in custom DIY projects. I never opened any FL.
Kind regards
The Aux-LEDs on the ROT66 are an afterthought.
The D4S had it first and ROT66 was always out. Then Lexel designed an Ledboard based on a lit tailswitch.
How do I access the highest regulated mode?
The simplest way is to set one of the ramp ceilings to it. For the 219B (7x7135) version, it is level 115. For the others (14x7135), it is level 125.
These are the default ramp ceilings the ROT66 ships with.
I don’t get all the angst about the aux LEDs draining the battery in these lights. Charge your batteries once a quarter and your flashlight is probably 3/4 full or so, no?
All I read is you shouldn’t just let batteries sit in there for months on end anyhow.
Not wanting them on “just because” - that I understand a little more. Mine is tucked away a bit so the “purple haze” causes no problems.
Or should have I posted in the unpopular opinion thread???
On my nightstand, the PL47 throws some decent amt of light when your eyes are fully adjusted to darkness, so I can see for that reason not to want the front AUX LED's on, but can always give it a twist. It would just be more practical for all if controlled from firmware.
More like once every year or two. The standby runtime is measured in years, so a few months shouldn’t be an issue.
However, li-ion cells in general should be stored at roughly half full if they are to be unused for a long time. Leaving them fully charged or leaving them empty tends to decrease the capacity a lot faster than storing them half-full.
I finally dialed the potentiometers on mine down to the minimum level last night. It was an easily noticeable decrease in brightness when I adjusted it, although they’re still brighter than I’d like for sitting on a nightstand.
Since I keep mine in a drawer, that’s not really a problem though.
There is no explaining people. We are all very complex. I would not waste time trying to understand it.
Personally, I always add directly powered auxiliary lights to my flashlights. I’m not bothered by parasitic drain because I simply turn the battery tube or tail cap or click the rear switch when I’m not using the light. If people think that’s too hard or too complicated, etc… thats on them. I don’t waste my time analyzing why they feel that way.
The overwhelming majority seem to like the aux lights. It’s like that saying “You can’t please all the people all the time”.
I asked Jack to send me the light with the aux leds turned off. Today I removed the optics and turned all the potentiometers a little but the aux won’t get one. Which of the three needs to be turned?
About the only way to turn them off, as in no parasitic drain at all, is to not connect the wires. I would check that there is voltage going to the potentiometer. If so, then it should be simple to just turn all the pots until the leds start glowing.
After turning they won’t turn on so I guess there is no voltage.
You can check by probing here.
See the + and the ground goes to the screw/flashlight body. When powered you should be close to battery voltage, 3 or 4 volts. If no voltage, the wire to the aux board is not connected.
Seems the wires are not connected. I asked Jack to turn them off not to disconnect totally rofl, lost in translation apparently and my fault for asking for changes.
Sounds like they did exactly what you asked to me.
What are the smaller and different looking blue and green wires? They seem to be looped up there for no apparent reason. I wonder if one of them is the power that goes to the aux board?