Fireflies E07 preview

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M4D M4X
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Rdubya18 wrote:
Post # 878

thanks for telling me stupid Wink

 

i opened mine in the name of science.. 

dry as f#ck  Sad

both MCPCB and aux board are a snug fit (half a mm gap would be better maybe)

and the bottom of the MCPCB is not flat...

after pushing the holes out in mfg those should be softened or the edges rounded...

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maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

Cereal_killer
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Cereal_killer wrote:
What driver configuration does the E07 use? Is it a 2 channel driver like the PL47 or a 3 channel like the ROT66?

If anyone’s opened one up and knows for sure please let me know. Found a post on reddit that states (no pics with it) it’s a 2ch 3×7135+FET, can anyone confirm?

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

DB Custom
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I started to remove the driver when I was re-fitting the MCPCB yesterday but since there is literally nothing wrong with the driver I just left it in place. Very rare for me to see it that way, but there it is…

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So, some updates from Jack in an email. I’m both excited, and relieved.

Dear Blue

Due to Canada Larbor force issue, the shipper changed a new tracking code for this package.

It has been released by Canadian customs now. I think you wil receive it soon.

Really sorry for this shipping issue. I work very hard to solve issues, like recent thermal paste issue by supplier E07. It should not look like the picture you sent. I am not happy by job from the supplier.

You have a good idea with dual springs for XP-L HI and SST-20 65CRI. I will try to implement it, for less work, and compatibility battery. Change not for now.

Added edit: The driver was designed to have the positive wire to be sodered to the spring. This can change as you suggested.

We have extended the length of the battery tube for a bit to fit 21700 well in next batch for now.

Best Regards
Jack

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

DB Custom
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Can anyone tell my horrible memory how the warning lights in the middle work? I spent a good deal of time today running down a 30T with some seriously hot blasts and even running a 4” AC computer fan on it, finally got low enough to start stepping down no matter what level I turned it on at… at this point none of the aux lights worked at all. I pulled the cell and it was at 2.97V. I have another fresh new cell that hasn’t been charged and putting that in the Aux lights work but no middle warning lights. So I put the discharged cell on the charger for a minute or two, got the middle warning lights to show red at about 3.18V. Is this all they do? Red when low?

I turned down the two sets of Auxillary leds around the outside using the POT’s. It was initially so bright I couldn’t leave em on at night as they glowed the room! lol

With the 30T pushing the Samsung emitters, thermal regulation reduces output in about 20 seconds, by then though even at the reduced level it’s difficult to hold onto, especially the head itself, can’t really leave a finger in contact with the finned head area. After repeating this a couple of times the entire light is pretty warm, all the way down to the tail cap. If I double click to high from off, it will run about a minute before reducing, can run it several minutes holding it firmly in hand but yeah, it’s hot. Ambient around 75º.

I’m really pleased with the E07, overall fit and finish is superb as far as the light itself goes, very well done. Just the couple of glitches about that one threaded hole being in the wrong place and the MCPCB being just a little on the large side… address those couple of things and the light is crazy good.

M4D M4X
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it ONLY works when the light is in standby...

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

contactcr
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Yea, it’s a pretty small window. I think the one Lexel made for my D4S is 3.1 off, 3.4 red – about the same as M4D M4X shows but I haven’t tested it with a power supply.

koubak
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M4D M4X wrote:

Rdubya18 wrote:
Post # 878

thanks for telling me stupid Wink


 


i opened mine in the name of science.. 


dry as f#ck  Sad


both MCPCB and aux board are a snug fit (half a mm gap would be better maybe)

and the bottom of the MCPCB is not flat…



after pushing the holes out in mfg those should be softened or the edges rounded…


From the second picture, it seems that the gap is only caused by the rough edges of the hole. Can’t it be corrected with sand paper to reduce the gap and make the copper and aluminum parts fit better together without extra thermal paste? I have never dismounted any torch, so this really is a naive question.
M4D M4X
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you are right!
it just misses a tginy bit of smoothing the edges (usually done after manufacturing the MCPCB)

easy to fix - but should not be on the customers responsibility

PLEASE NOTE
i do not work in "reviews, deals and codes" for the time being
maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

koubak
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Absolutely. I admit I am kind of worried about dismounting my two E07 to do that when they arrive, especially as it seems to require some desoldering/resoldering. But in any case, if the situation can be improved to a good metal to metal contact with some sand paper, it might be more efficient than thermal paste, and perhaps less error prone (bad choice of thermal paste, too much paste, not enough, etc.). Your picture was very helpful anyway, thanks. Now looking forward to checking illustrated instructions or videos on how to disassemble and reassemble an E07. Big Smile

DB Custom
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I used a file to reduce the diameter of the MCPCB, flatten the bottom, and cut a bevel on the bottom edge. The MCPCB drops in nicely then and has a tiny bit of play. The screws snug it down and squeeze out any excess thermal paste. Wink

The legs of the optic seat on the MCPCB as well, also applying pressure when the bezel is tightened. Another good reason to have all 4 legs intact. With the leg broken off and a shorter screw applied to that leg hole, the auxillary board is bypassed at that spot… two screws on the other sides of the light hold down both the aux pcb and MCPCB, but on that broken side the shorter screw only holds down the MCPCB leaving the aux pcb to have some lift or tilt.

The threaded holes are not through holes, they have a bottom, so when they found the one hole drilled and threaded in the wrong place they also had to source a shorter screw…. on and on it goes…

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Oh and Martin? When the cell is low enough the aux LED’s don’t work at all, neither do the warning LED’s. In standby of course. The light will still function though, so the cell wasn’t THAT low, but the red warning LED’s could not be dialed up to function at all with the cell at 2.97V.

Would have maybe been better to have the warning LED’s in the switch… you could see them then warning you of low Voltage even if the light was on, typically you turn the light off and enter standby you probably won’t notice the warning aux LED’s until you go to pick it up next time to use, maybe then even those have gone out as the cell dropped even lower running the warning lights. Don’t know , but…

The warning lights really don’t mean much to me as I always charge up the cell after I use it. The light steps down to lower modes when the cell is low so if you go that far you already know the cell is nearly depleted. Wink

Oh yeah, the potentiometer’s don’t seem to have much effect at all, a very slight turn can dim the LED’s a step, but that’s about all I can tell… like 2 levels of brightness is all they’ll give no matter how much you turn the POT, stop to stop. I see this both on the purple aux LED’s and the red warning ones.

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DB Custom wrote:
Can anyone tell my horrible memory how the warning lights in the middle work? … Is this all they do? Red when low?

Yes. Red when low.

In my testing, what it does is:

  • > 3.3V: blue (or green or purple or whatever) (outer rings only)
  • 3.0V to 3.3V: red (inner ring only)
  • < 3.0V: off

… and since they’re front-facing, it’s only on and visible when the main light is off.

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BlueSwordM wrote:
So, some updates from Jack in an email. I’m both excited, and relieved.

Dear Blue

Due to Canada Larbor force issue, the shipper changed a new tracking code for this package.

It has been released by Canadian customs now. I think you wil receive it soon.

Really sorry for this shipping issue. I work very hard to solve issues, like recent thermal paste issue by supplier E07. It should not look like the picture you sent. I am not happy by job from the supplier.

_You have a good idea with dual springs for XP-L HI and SST-20 65CRI. I will try to implement it, for less work, and compatibility battery. Change not for now.

Added edit: The driver was designed to have the positive wire to be sodered to the spring. This can change as you suggested.

We have extended the length of the battery tube for a bit to fit 21700 well in next batch for now.

Best Regards
Jack

Wow that’s good to hear. Some people have been asking for compatibility with protected cells. Do you think it is possible? I would love to be able to use the Acebeam 5100mah 20A cell for the 219B version. Seems like the perfect battery for that emitter.

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A look at the tint when ramping, with Samsung LH351D W6 5000K emitters installed and on an Samsung 30T at about 78%…

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The walls are eggshell white, but there is old 5% Limo tint on the windows which gives a purple cast to the room before the light is turned on. Wink

Edit: Sorry, video is from my Apple i8 phone on lower resolution setting with full Auto controlling everything about the video.

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I’m guessing you did a reflow to get the LH351s on there vs had a spare board? Would be a good choice for pure flood from this light I bet!

Just a suggestion in future vids you should try to speak up a bit more, I had to crank my volume for this one to hear anything.

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SKV89 wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
So, some updates from Jack in an email. I’m both excited, and relieved.

Dear Blue

Due to Canada Larbor force issue, the shipper changed a new tracking code for this package.

It has been released by Canadian customs now. I think you wil receive it soon.

Really sorry for this shipping issue. I work very hard to solve issues, like recent thermal paste issue by supplier E07. It should not look like the picture you sent. I am not happy by job from the supplier.

_You have a good idea with dual springs for XP-L HI and SST-20 65CRI. I will try to implement it, for less work, and compatibility battery. Change not for now.

Added edit: The driver was designed to have the positive wire to be sodered to the spring. This can change as you suggested.

We have extended the length of the battery tube for a bit to fit 21700 well in next batch for now.

Best Regards
Jack

Wow that’s good to hear. Some people have been asking for compatibility with protected cells. Do you think it is possible? I would love to be able to use the Acebeam 5100mah 20A cell for the 219B version. Seems like the perfect battery for that emitter.


That is good news. Sounds like Fireflies is responding to the issues and working to fix them.
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I, uh, think I may have covered the microphone in order to hold the phone in such a way that I could hit start/stop. I’ve heard that complaint before… Silly Tend to talk softly when on the phone or speaking to someone that is close. Sorry. Not about what I’m saying , it’s about the light. lol Guess I could speak like Samurai Jack… (been watching cartoons with my boy…)

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Dale, can I bring one of these overs during one of your modding sessions and just be a fly on the wall?

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Firelight2 wrote:
SKV89 wrote:
BlueSwordM wrote:
So, some updates from Jack in an email. I’m both excited, and relieved.

Dear Blue

Due to Canada Larbor force issue, the shipper changed a new tracking code for this package.

It has been released by Canadian customs now. I think you wil receive it soon.

Really sorry for this shipping issue. I work very hard to solve issues, like recent thermal paste issue by supplier E07. It should not look like the picture you sent. I am not happy by job from the supplier.

_You have a good idea with dual springs for XP-L HI and SST-20 65CRI. I will try to implement it, for less work, and compatibility battery. Change not for now.

Added edit: The driver was designed to have the positive wire to be sodered to the spring. This can change as you suggested.

We have extended the length of the battery tube for a bit to fit 21700 well in next batch for now.

Best Regards
Jack

Wow that’s good to hear. Some people have been asking for compatibility with protected cells. Do you think it is possible? I would love to be able to use the Acebeam 5100mah 20A cell for the 219B version. Seems like the perfect battery for that emitter.


That is good news. Sounds like Fireflies is responding to the issues and working to fix them.

I agree. It is encouraging. With the lengthened tube, a large solder blob on the spring won’t dent the cell. I’d hope that the screw issue/broken optic leg will be fixed. Beveling the sharp edges and adding thermal paste should make this a must have for an excellent size-to-power ratio.

If possible and if anyone is listening, I’d like to see switch colors match the aux leds on the head. I’d also like to see the switch lights be able to be turned off, but that may just be pie in the sky dreaming.

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Got my Silver E07 this morning.  It came with a crushed 21700 battery.  Is it still safe to use this battery?  Top is caved in about 50% and bottom has a circular etch which is deep enough to easily catch a finger nail skimming over it.

Also came with the broken leg and screw in the wrong place.  My first E07 with the 21700 battery charger that I ordered from ff never came so with nothing to charge the battery with, I used one of my 30Q button tops but it  only had 3.8v charge and brightness was nothing special.  Charging the 30Q as we speak.  Have to say it's a beautiful looking light with the purple leds, nice job ff thank you.  I did not notice any problem with the beam either.  Seems the broken leg on the optics and the misplaced screw is not doing any damage as far as I can tell.

 

It's the deepness of the indention at the bottom of the 40T that concerns me most.

 

 

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I think the deep circle on the bottom of the can is part of the cell. I don’t think that was caused by spring crushing.

My E07 came with 40T installed and both the top and bottom of my cell look much more crushed than yours. And the cell still works perfectly with no problems.

Quote:
I’ve heard on the silver/clear versions they seemed to be machined better in the grooves near the switch? Mine I had to sand down inside of them so it won’t cut my finger.
Yes, the clear anodize E07 features extra machining on the heat sink fins so they aren’t sharp.

Basically, Fireflies is seeing feedback and fixing problems in subsequent production runs. I wouldn’t be surprised if in a few months every concern we’re seeing today is fixed.

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The dent on the top is nothing but that groove is way out of the ordinary.

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Firelight2 wrote:
I think the deep circle on the bottom of the can is part of the cell. I don't think that was caused by spring crushing. My E07 came with 40T installed and both the top and bottom of my cell look much more crushed than yours. And the cell still works perfectly with no problems.
Quote:
I’ve heard on the silver/clear versions they seemed to be machined better in the grooves near the switch? Mine I had to sand down inside of them so it won’t cut my finger.
Yes, the clear anodize E07 features extra machining on the heat sink fins so they aren't sharp. Basically, Fireflies is seeing feedback and fixing problems in subsequent production runs. I wouldn't be surprised if in a few months every concern we're seeing today is fixed.

 

Just did a google image search of the 40T and none of them show that deep groove.  Can not be from the E07 cap either as the spring diameter is not so wide.  What it seems is that the 40T I got in my E07 was used and abused in some other device before being shipped to me.  I have a strong feeling I should send it off for recycling as the grooves in the bottom are just too deep.  

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Firelight2 wrote:

Basically, Fireflies is seeing feedback and fixing problems in subsequent production runs. I wouldn’t be surprised if in a few months every concern we’re seeing today is fixed.

Yes, that is very encouraging. The only issue is Nichia 219B LEDs are discontinued, so there is a trade-off between choosing them or the improved E07 in the future, if you are interested in those emitters.
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contactcr, ever see 4K video shot on a full frame sensor? Bring a Rhodes mic and we’ll mod a few… Silly (The Rhodes mic isn’t necessary, dual mics on the 5D MkIV work just fine… I’ve just always wanted a Rhodes with a dead kitten)

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Wait, what? TK, the center aux LED’s are supposed to be lit over 3.3V? Like, all the time when the cell is charged? Or just down at the low level as an early warning indicator?

Edit: When my E07 blinks out 3.3V there are still no center lights. At 3.2V the red lights are on and the outer purple aux lights are off.

Edit II: At 3.29V (measured on a meter) the center lights are off and the outer lights are on. I don’t ever see a green or blue center, only red and only then for a very short .2V period.

Edit III: At 3.29V I can see the red center lights blinking, but only if I look through the clear side of the center TIR, they don’t show from the front.

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DB Custom wrote:
Wait, what? TK, the center aux LED’s are supposed to be lit over 3.3V? Like, all the time when the cell is charged? Or just down at the low level as an early warning indicator?

Edit: When my E07 blinks out 3.3V there are still no center lights. At 3.2V the red lights are on and the outer purple aux lights are off.

Edit II: At 3.29V (measured on a meter) the center lights are off and the outer lights are on. I don’t ever see a green or blue center, only red and only then for a very short .2V period.

No, the inner ring (red LEDs) are only lit during a specific range of low voltages. At higher voltage, only the outer rings light up. There are no green or blue or purple emitters in the center. Also, the exact voltage where it changes seems to vary from one light to the next.

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-MD- wrote:
Mine is similar to yours. !https://i.imgur.com/eeNt7N0.jpg! !https://i.imgur.com/eFclECz.jpg!

 

Without knowing the thickness of the bottom plate, it's impossible to know if there is a safety concern or not and based on the images I saw online, none of them have this indention.  For lithium batteries, I've always followed the "when in doubt, throw them out" rule.   The bottom ring almost looks like a factory fault and someone decided to let it go.

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