Sometimes you need to use a heat gun to heat up the bezel and soften the threadlocker, then use a pair of rubber strap wrenches to rotate in opposite directions. The amount of threadlocker will determine how tight it is and if heat is needed.
Sometimes even a heat gun is not hot enough and you need a blowtorch, while being careful not to discolour the anodisation.
Is it normal that when a gt mini is turned off, led still glows like a moon mode, don’t know maybe 1 or 2 or 3 lux, so i can light a watch and see what’s the time, also can clearly see a spot on a white wall.
Even if i lock a torch with a 4 press of a button, so the green led on a button goes off, but xpl-hi led still glows a little, so it’s impossible that an xpl-hi led is iluminated a little from a button led.
Do you think i need to RMA it , because i have befor this one another gt mini NW, but i didn’t see that a main led shines even if a torch is off.
In manuals it writes that a parasitic drain is around 27micro A but on my torch parasitic drain is when a torch is off 4.3mili A.
Is this a problem with a driver or with a led?
if you lockout the tailcap for a minute and then reconnect - does the led glow before you hit the switch first time too?
Yes, as fast as i turn down a tailcap, led blinks two times and then dim glows, i don’t need to push a power button.
No, that is not normal. When the light is OFF, the LED should be OFF.
It’s a problem with the driver. The led is just a dumb device with constant positive power going to it. It’s the driver that is responsible for the ground side. Apparently there is some current leaking through the driver allowing power to flow (like a bad 7135 chip or capacitor for instance). 4mA can run a battery down pretty fast. I would see about getting it replaced.
Any plans for an XHP70 version of the GT mini?
The problem can be under the led also, if there is a minute short between led- and the central pad (which is connected to ground), a small piece of dirt is enough to cause that, the led lights up. Is it really more than a lumen? (you can get a visisble illumination of a watch down to 0.01 lumen, in which case the drain is 0.03 mA which is totally negligable.
That’s what their ODF30 is. It’s got a bigger battery of course, but very similar.
I just received my GT Mini NW from Lumintop Aliexpress store and I am so happy with it I cant even express it with words!Extremely well build very handy pocket thrower with perfect Kelvin emitter for me!Wicked flashlight!
great!
I just received one also. I am really happy with the light! The size, the distance the beam throws, the tint of the emitter, the UI. Pretty cool that I have a light similar to the BLF GT that I can carry in a pocket. I love BLF! Thanks to all for the effort. Regards.
Same from me man!All the lights BLF community makes are great!
I cant wait to save money for the bigger brother of GT Mini,but I am not sure which to get GT or GT70,maybe the 70 is more of a usable beam
Two comments:
1. I sometimes have a problem turning the light off. Usually if I try a few times or ramp up a little ways then try it will work. Not a big problem so not worrying about it.
2. Got mine from Banggood. I ordered a neutral white emitter, received my light with a big CW sticker on the box. I informed Banggood, and their response was basically, ‘mistakes happen once in a while. Will you accept 400 Banggood points [$4 USD] to make it all better.’ Not really - I ordered a neutral white because that is what I wanted.
Anyone have any suggestions on best next step?
Next step to what?? Not trying to be funny, I just don’t understand. Are you asking about #1, #2, or both??
Just don’t agree to anything that doesn’t satisfy you. They just offer silly coupons and wait to see if you’ll escalate it.
My light had really bad paracitic drain when off, I’m talking an order or magnitude higher than it should of been! It was drawing around 1100-1200 micro amps while off. Not a new development but I just now finally got tired of it and decided to do something about it.
I removed and replaced driver components one at a time (do note I’d already deleted the unnecessary voltage divider since the tiny85 monitors cell voltage internally) till the draw went away. The culprit: C1
I’m now measuring 37uA with the aux LED off, 137uA with it on high (blue led with 5.6kohm R6). I can finally leave the tailcap not locked out again!
Also swapped to the good FET and swapped to a SST20 while it was apart. Reading 156kcd now @ 1300Lm.
You think the C1 had a crack internally which caused a small short? Maybe just defective from the start?
Is it actually possible to order a GT mini without the bezel glued? I’m getting rather sick of manufacturers that work with BLF surprising us with glued parts on the production run. Enthusiast lights should never be glued.