TheKlone35 - modded

dthrckt: Sorry, forgot your last question. On the other side I soldered the "V+" from the power switch to the center of the driver (where I had removed the spring), and the wire from the mode button leads to the 4th star (directly below the little brown capacitor).

Note however that I had to make changes to the small board on the other side as well (where the switches are) and that there are now 4 wires between front and back of the battery holder, and I had to make some holes bigger to let the wires through -- all because I had to change the serial setup to a parallel one. It's not just a simple driver swap.

If you want to do the same, I can post a more detailed description. I also could send you a programmed driver if you want (as soon as I finish the program).

very nice work!

i was considering bying this lite. in ur opinion it's not comparable to the fenix until modded?

thanks - I might just do that - when my flashlight budget resets eom :)

Either this light or the mg x-thrower - and the runtime/flexibility of this is pretty attractive. The only thing is, I wish that it had some knurling, or something...but that's aesthetics, since I doubt grip is an issue (although, obviously, I'm guessing...).

EDIT: Actually, when you spin yours up, you might as well do a second. I'll paypal you for the driver and install it when I get around to buying the light. Thanks!

I just finished my TheKlone35-Firmware, and I am very pleased with it. Best ramping system I've seen so far - thanks to the mode button.

I call it lumo35drv.

There are two 'standard' levels, 25% and 100% (more can be added), and a short tap on the mode button switches between them.

When you press the button a bit longer (>0.5s), it begins to ramp up (visually linear), starting from the brightness level you just were in. If you release and press again (>0.5s) it ramps down instead. I never found it easier to fine-adjust the brightness to my wishes; if you want it just a tad brighter or less bright, you don't have to start over.

The end of the ramp is indicated by a short blink. If you press the button even longer (>1s while already at the end), you get the extended modes, where strobe and beacon is (more brightness modes can be added). A short tap switches between the extended modes, a longer tap gets you back to standard mode.

The main (power) button is a forward clicky, so you have a momentary operation ("tactical"), too.

BRILLIANT

cheaplite: Unmodded it's 2/3 of TK35's performance, has noticeable PWM and no memory.

Nice, I like the way you implemented ramping, it goes both ways and not just up or down like some budget lights do!

If you want to do the same, here are the instructions (I hope I didn't forget anything):

  • Desolder the two metal bars from the driver (which connect back and front) and take all three boards out.
  • Desolder all components from the two round driver boards (SMD).
  • Cut the marked connection on the small switches board on the shown side and on the rear side.
  • Bore up the holes on the side with the 3 wires (on the switch board, too); see images.
  • Note that the "V-" wire will be connected to 4 spots: two on the small switches board (see image); to the hole through which it gets into the driver compartment (not shown) and to the outer ring of the new driver, directly above that.
  • Solder wires (V-, V+, B+, M) to the switches board as shown. Remember which is which. Insert both boards.
  • Solder V- to it's hole on the lower round board; let 5mm protrude.
  • Solder the B+ wire to "VCC" on the original board, as shown.
  • Desolder the spring from the NANJG, solder the V+ wire to that spot.
  • Solder M (from the mode button) to the NANJG's 4th star, which is connected to ATtiny's B3 pin as active low. By 4th star I mean the one near the brown capacitor (labelled C1).
  • Solder the driver's border to the V- wire

Old (left) and new (right) wiring:

Commented pictures:

very nice Dr Jones!

this is a great post- i think i could even do it... maybe

Well the Dr is in. Really nice work!

Really Good that you showed the modding instructions too.Smile

Thanks.

It's very interesting ...

DrJones, wow. this is very impressive and thanks for sharing.

Great job Dr Jones!

I've got one of these lights with a driver that never did work, so it would be good to give a try, I am not sure I will be able to do it, but I haven't got much to loose.

A driver with ramping would be great, but I am afraid I do not know how to program it nor have the tools, so It will be a KD 8*7135 V2 I've got around here with high and med modes.

Note that a standard driver (with unmodified firmware) will not make any use of the mode button.
I could send a readily flashed driver though, if you want to do that mod.

Dr Jones has been gracious enough to sell me some flashed drivers and I've ordered the light.

Although he offered customization, I went w/ the same UI he chose. I debated adding a moon low, but the reality is, this is a high power light and I almost always have some other (low power) light handy when I need that function.

When I do this mod I'll post a step by step - for the benefit of others, but more so that (hopefully ;) ) Dr Jones can verify my (mis)understanding/work before first power on

I can't believe there isn't more interest in this. Not that it isn't a bit more risky/challenging than your average driver swap...but I imagine the result is going to be well worth the effort.

This might end up my main camping light, in place of my xtar d06. It is tough to beat the instant access to 20+ levels and the ruggedness of that light - but it runs at 2.5A. I'll add 2 or 3 chips to Dr. Jones' driver, and still have more runtime than the D06...plus the beacon mode is going to help me find my campsite (from my boat, since the DRY and flex360s are for landing).

I'd consider this mod too, but I've got a lot ahead of this one. Been following the posts on this clone, but haven't posted.

-Garry

a dozen other projects will get pushed aside (literally...on my bench lol) when this light arrives. but, this spending has to stop, if I want to keep eating human food anyway.

This is awesome. I still have yet to build a light utilizing a secondary switch. All I need to do is wire up the secondary switch to the 4th star and ground, so that it will pull low when pressed, correct?

I don't plan on doing the TK35 clone, probably just a Maglite. Would you be willing to post up your code? (I just didn't want to bother figuring out the code to access the pin for low. I know it's not hard, I was just lazy).

man we have some smart boys here..nice job!

I am unsure I will wire it correctly, if you want I can send you the full battery host, let me know if you can do it, and give a price for it if possible.

I am not very good soldering little things, doing it on thick wires, led stars I can do it, but smaller than that me and my terrible solder are pretty bad.