[ GXB172 - 50W Single Cell 17mm Boost Driver! ]

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Cereal_killer
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Yea no skill involved or nothin… Slather up that QFN with some solder and stick a couple wires on there with the ol’ sausage fingers.

 RIP  SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.

moderator007
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I finally got the 841 programmed using a usbasp programmer. Some idiot had 2 leads out of place on the usbasp header. Facepalm Facepalm Facepalm Sometimes the simplest things can be over looked, I checked the pin outs a half dozen times I bet. Sick
You will need to add the config patch file to avrdude for the 841 before it will work, avrdude doesn’t have the 841 specifications in the original config file.. When I finally figured out I had the usbasp pin out wrong, avrdude found the 841 and programmed with no problem.
Tested the driver with a power supply for function everything checks good. I’m going to try to get the GXB172 installed in a S2 tonight.
Thanks for the help and the suggestions guys, greatly appreciated.
This driver really isn’t that hard to build but it is challenging to say the least. I built a second one last night in about 4 hours with a few family breaks here and there. Wink
This time I reflowed the entire coil side in one season and then did the entire battery side at one time all but the op amp. Loneoceans has a noted the op amp is sensitive to heat and may not work correctly if overheated. So I reflowed it last by itself as quickly as possible. To me the temp sensor is the hardest part, it’s so small you have to use magnification just to see the pin reference dot for correct placement.

Thank you Loneoceans for sharing this fun and incredable driver project. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

moderator007
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clientequator wrote:
moderator007 wrote:
Schoki wrote:
Try to program the tiny841 without anything else on the board. The other parts could stop the USBasp from recognising the mcu (at least that’s what helped in my case with a tiny85).
I haven’t tried that yet. I do have vcc, miso and mosi connected directly to the mcu at the moment because those 3 pads ripped of the pcb from me moving the wires around to much. I will try direct connecting the other 3 and see if anything changes. Thanks for the suggestion Thumbs Up .

moderator007, did you get programmer to work? I am going to begin programming soon when I get the pogoprog pcb. the mcu is so small, it must be very difficult to solder wire directly to it!


I did get it to work.
Soldering wires directly to the small pcb pads is difficult but soldering directly to the tiny mcu pads is even more FUN (I’m Joking of coarse). Sick
If you have a usbasp, you shouldn’t have to build the entire pogoprog board.
clientequator
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moderator007 wrote:
I finally got the 841 programmed using a usbasp programmer. Some idiot had 2 leads out of place on the usbasp header. Facepalm Facepalm Facepalm Sometimes the simplest things can be over looked, I checked the pin outs a half dozen times I bet. Sick
You will need to add the config patch file to avrdude for the 841 before it will work, avrdude doesn’t have the 841 specifications in the original config file.. When I finally figured out I had the usbasp pin out wrong, avrdude found the 841 and programmed with no problem.
Tested the driver with a power supply for function everything checks good. I’m going to try to get the GXB172 installed in a S2 tonight.
Thanks for the help and the suggestions guys, greatly appreciated.
This driver really isn’t that hard to build but it is challenging to say the least. I built a second one last night in about 4 hours with a few family breaks here and there. Wink
This time I reflowed the entire coil side in one season and then did the entire battery side at one time all but the op amp. Loneoceans has a noted the op amp is sensitive to heat and may not work correctly if overheated. So I reflowed it last by itself as quickly as possible. To me the temp sensor is the hardest part, it’s so small you have to use magnification just to see the pin reference dot for correct placement.

Thank you Loneoceans for sharing this fun and incredable driver project. Thumbs Up Thumbs Up Thumbs Up

Mr. Moderator007, big congratulations to you!! This is another amazing result and I am very inspired by you and schizobovine for finishing gxb172 to motivate me to build also.

To build another one in 4 hour is another amazing result! I think I already spend a lot of time on just the driver soldering, but you are correct I think soldering with needle tweezer, hot air, and magnification is very important for this project. The temp sensor I use no solder, just a lot of flux and it seem to solder properly after inductor solder on.

Mr. Moderator007, I borrow ATMEL ICE programmer from friend and I will use Atmel Studio to set fuses on 841 and to program the hex file. Hope it will be able to work very soon!

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Orsm effort moderator007. Well done. Beer

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

moderator007
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Thanks for nice comments, I have seen your Orsm work MRsDNF.
I finally got around to getting this mounted in a S2 (works been crazy last few days).
This is a Orsm boost driver. I’m charging up some 30Q’s to test output with.
Already saw 2500 lumens on a partially charged 25R with the default setting.
Soldered the two bridges for the 5.5 amps output. Just waiting on the 30Q’s now.

MRsDNF
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You probably mentioned it but what led are you using?

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

Umpi2000
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Anyone willing to piece one together and sell it complete for the souls who simply do not have the skill required or programming knowledge and tools?

AEDe
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Is source code for firmware available?
moderator007
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AEDe wrote:
Is source code for firmware available?

That’s what I really need. I’d like to tweak it a little. Wink

MRsDNF wrote:
You probably mentioned it but what led are you using?

I’m using a xhp50.2 J4 5000k on a copper Nitro sinkpad (The BLF created first ever sinkpad).

Umpi2000 wrote:
Anyone willing to piece one together and sell it complete for the souls who simply do not have the skill required or programming knowledge and tools?

I’m really not sure if I’m allowed to sell one. That be a question Loneoceans would have to answer, not sure of the licensing.
A giveaway I could do? I have 3 more boards and components ordered, when I get time to complete them, I could do a giveaway.
contactcr
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There are two more of Mountain Electronics boost drivers available:

http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id...

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By the way, I charged up 2 30Q’s and one 25R. I got 2800 lumens at start up and holds 2500 lumens for maybe a minute (didn’t time).
I tested the current draw with a 87V and it said around 13 amps but the meter gives me a error because the limit is 10 amps so I wouldn’t completely trust that.

moderator007
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This driver also works with a lighted tail cap, no modification needed. Beer
The stock switch also seems to handle the current fine for now. Part of that comes from Loneoceans firmware that ramps up from the previous level instead of just a full on.
Its like a soft start feature to each mode. Time will tell how long the switch will last at this current.

Umpi2000
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moderator007 wrote:
AEDe wrote:
Is source code for firmware available?

That’s what I really need. I’d like to tweak it a little. Wink

MRsDNF wrote:
You probably mentioned it but what led are you using?

I’m using a xhp50.2 J4 5000k on a copper Nitro sinkpad (The BLF created first ever sinkpad).
Umpi2000 wrote:
Anyone willing to piece one together and sell it complete for the souls who simply do not have the skill required or programming knowledge and tools?
I’m really not sure if I’m allowed to sell one. That be a question Loneoceans would have to answer, not sure of the licensing. A giveaway I could do? I have 3 more boards and components ordered, when I get time to complete them, I could do a giveaway.

A GAW is incredibly generous, but I’m sure EVERY member on BLF would want to win so I’d be quite low odds to get it hahaha If you sold it what would be the cost? I could pay for your labor/time and you do the board and components at no profit.
I was racing in NC in 2006, I stayed in Apex, NC. I enjoyed it there, the people really made me feel at home.

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Great work moderator007 to get loneocean’s awesome design to work.

I feared that this would stay a one-man’s project but thanks to you and clientequator and schizobovine this design slowly is getting available to the BLF community. And thanks loneoceans for making your driver public.

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Being a modder at heart, I just can’t leave things alone. Evil I changed the Feedback sense resistor last night to .00833 ohms, stock is .010 ohms. Current input increased to 15 amps with a meter rated for 10 Facepalm .

My lumen tube reported 3100 lumens at start up with a 30Q and slightly higher with a VTC6. S2 gets to hot to hold in about 30 seconds from a cold start.
Not really a substained usable turbo , similar to a D4, but lots of wow!

When I run the math for power in versus power out the lumens seems low to me. I would think that at around 6 amps or more to the xhp50.2, I would be knocking on the 4000 lumens door. Maybe the other losses are adding up like the lens. I straight wired (no switch, no tail cap) the bat to the tube and get very very close to the same measurement as with the tail cap and switch on.

contactcr
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It sounds like you are getting in to the territory of needing a better high drain battery Its probably fine when its nearly full though

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contactcr wrote:
It sounds like you are getting in to the territory of needing a better high drain battery Its probably fine when its nearly full though

I’m leaning towards this driver being better served in a 21700 host. More mass, bigger better less voltage sag.
Only thing I see is a Sofirn C8.
contactcr
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You could do a really cool quad too if it works well @ 12V, just need to wire the MCPCB in series.

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moderator007 wrote:
contactcr wrote:
It sounds like you are getting in to the territory of needing a better high drain battery Its probably fine when its nearly full though
I’m leaning towards this driver being better served in a 21700 host. More mass, bigger better less voltage sag. Only thing I see is a Sofirn C8.

Not the best host, by far, but I’ve got a mtn boost in an f13 with xhp50.2 and it fits the 21700 way better than 26500 ever fit. Had to do a 17-20 and a 20-22 brass ring, but it works great.

Beware, the shelf is paper thin on the f13. And the threads are way too fine. Decent host otherwise.

I was in the process of sanding the host down to fit an unprotected 26650 better, when I tried the sofirn 21700. I used a couple of the convoy squiggly adapters that fit 18650 in 26650s. Squeezed then on, no problem.

26650 hosts that will fit a protected cell will fit 21700 with simple safe adapters. 26650 hosts are also easy more prevalent.

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Which brand F13 do you have? I think I saw several different brands when I searched.
I may just use a C8 since I already have a old one that needs a upgrade. It still has a old P7 in it for heaven sakes. Big Smile
It was a 900 lumen monster back in the day. How times have changed. Wink

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C8 heatpath is superior, IMHO.

But won’t take a 26650 (albeit loosely) or a 21700 with spacers (perfect fit). Here’s the spacers: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/18650-to-26650-ring/330416_3267...

I’ve got the ultrafire variant. This guy: https://www.fasttech.com/products/5273900 It’s “ok” as far as hosts go. Convoy has me spoiled with the awesome threads and fit and finish. Ultrafire feels cheap, comparatively, in every way. If the 21700 had not fit, I might have scrapped it. Was getting to be more time than it was worth to properly fit the unprotected 26650. Was just too long a battery tube. Springs were loose. Shaking the light you could feel the battery moving towards each end. Smooth reflector is about right with the beamshot in the ad for it. Nice round hotspot, well defined, with a less dense corona. OP would have been way better, but i haven’t been all that confident in what i think i sourced from KD, so i never ordered it.

I also have a clear convoy c8 with the MTN boost driver and 50.2. Handles the heat surprisingly well. I love that emitter in that light. OP reflector made it just about perfect.

Also tried it in the M1 with the same driver. And a s2+ too… Happy with both. Swapped the 50.2 for a 70.2 in the m1. DANG. If you’re thinking about it, do that. More floody, a bit more output in comparison.

Had to ream the reflector out a bit and add some kapton tape, but it was worth it. I ordered a few 70.2 gaskets. I’ll remove the Kapton and fit them later on.

The extra power of this driver would be awesome, but i’m not ready to flow a whole board yet. MTN has us covered in the meantime with his boost drivers. If the 20mm kicks out more power, i’ll be all over those too.

clientequator
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nkresho wrote:
C8 heatpath is superior, IMHO. But won't take a 26650 (albeit loosely) or a 21700 with spacers (perfect fit). Here's the spacers: https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/18650-to-26650-ring/330416_3267... I've got the ultrafire variant. This guy: https://www.fasttech.com/products/5273900 It's "ok" as far as hosts go. Convoy has me spoiled with the awesome threads and fit and finish. Ultrafire feels cheap, comparatively, in every way. If the 21700 had not fit, I might have scrapped it. Was getting to be more time than it was worth to properly fit the unprotected 26650. Was just too long a battery tube. Springs were loose. Shaking the light you could feel the battery moving towards each end. Smooth reflector is about right with the beamshot in the ad for it. Nice round hotspot, well defined, with a less dense corona. OP would have been way better, but i haven't been all that confident in what i think i sourced from KD, so i never ordered it. I also have a clear convoy c8 with the MTN boost driver and 50.2. Handles the heat surprisingly well. I love that emitter in that light. OP reflector made it just about perfect. Also tried it in the M1 with the same driver. And a s2+ too... Happy with both. Swapped the 50.2 for a 70.2 in the m1. DANG. If you're thinking about it, do that. More floody, a bit more output in comparison. Had to ream the reflector out a bit and add some kapton tape, but it was worth it. I ordered a few 70.2 gaskets. I'll remove the Kapton and fit them later on. The extra power of this driver would be awesome, but i'm not ready to flow a whole board yet. MTN has us covered in the meantime with his boost drivers. If the 20mm kicks out more power, i'll be all over those too.

If gxb172 in 20mm version exist (it look like loneoceans have it, but I don't think he has the pcb released yet?), then it would be good for another flashlight which take 20mm driver! Mr. nkresho, is the f13 light a 20mm driver use?

moderator007
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From the third pic from the right at fasttech it shows a retaining ring in the bottom of the head, its possible this fits a 17mm driver.
Nkresho can you check the measurement to confirm that.
Wait a minute he said he has a mtn (17mm) boost driver in it now, so yeah 17mm fits.

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I put a mtn boost in a convoy m1. Before that had zener 2×18350 fet. Used a 70.2 and a step drill bit to open reflector. Gave it away as a gift but i really liked it.

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moderator007 wrote:
From the third pic from the right at fasttech it shows a retaining ring in the bottom of the head, its possible this fits a 17mm driver. Nkresho can you check the measurement to confirm that. Wait a minute he said he has a mtn (17mm) boost driver in it now, so yeah 17mm fits.

Nope, mine won’t fit a 17mm driver. It actually falls through the aluminum retaining ring. I used a 17-20mm adapter inside a 20-22mm adapter.

contactcr
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You could also try a Nichia 144AM build

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Thanks for letting us know nkresho. It will fit just needs two adapter rings. Thumbs Up

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Just to give some perspective to just how tiny this temp sensor is I took a pic with a 7135 laid out beside the temp sensor, most people know about how small a 7135 is. I can’t even see the reference dot without magnification. I held the actually board up to my screen and measured the width, this pic seems to be about 7 1/2 times bigger than the actual size. Split that temp sensor in to about 7 parts across 7 parts up and down, take just one piece, and that should give about the actual size.
.

.
Made a copper stud for the driver for a better less resistance connection.
.

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moderator007 wrote:
Just to give some perspective to just how tiny this temp sensor is I took a pic with a 7135 laid out beside the temp sensor, most people know about how small a 7135 is. I can't even see the reference dot without magnification. I held the actually board up to my screen and measured the width, this pic seems to be about 7 1/2 times bigger than the actual size. Split that temp sensor in to about 7 parts across 7 parts up and down, take just one piece, and that should give about the actual size. . !{width:70%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/Sd8n4A1.jpg[/img]! . Made a copper stud for the driver for a better less resistance connection. . !{width:70%}[img]https://i.imgur.com/gwlaLmK.jpg?1[/img]!

Mr. Moderator007, thank you very much for advice! 

I do not have same skill as you have or copper wire, so I use a cable terminal and shape it to fit. Size is 5mm long and 4.5mm wide.

Tip to beginner - I use needle-nose plier to open and close brass ring. It does not fit well so I made a lot scratches, so I recommend getting thin-tip pliers to open and close retaining ring. What method do you use?

My gxb172 is Working! coolcool

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