I swapped the switches in my Nightwatch NS02 with the NS22 and I think I like it better. Forward switch is now in the light with a cigar grip and the reverse in the other.
just got mine. Testing run time w/ my 50E.
3000K does NOT say to double cl. for Turbo. Double cl. for strobe?
Mine only seems to have 3 modes!
Details:
1.LED:SST20
Output:1250lm
Beam Intensity:90,000CD
Distanceļ¼600m
Modes:L (0.1A)-M (1.5A)-H (3A)-T (5A) double clickes strobe
I think i was wrong about the dbl click.
I am not Totally sure that you are wrong!
Neales directions states āDouble clickā for strobe for my SST-20 3000K version. First the terminology is incorrect,it is DOUBLE HALF-PRESS.
That is not right,Mine Triple Half presses for strobe.
I put my sunglasses on and went into a dark closet! No,comments!..ā¦.I Double half pressed as soon as light went on or in any mode. I tried to determine if it got brighter. It seems like it did but I am not positive. I have no equipment to verify.
Maybe tonight on the trail I will be able to tell.
So,I either got 50 minutes of high w/ ending voltage of 3.66V W/ MY 50Eā¦ā¦ā¦OR maybe that is turbo and my light is 3 modes[not including strobe]! I do not know!
oh,yeah,This is a FIRST in regards to the UI,A Reverse clicky
The LED changing tints so much fools you. Also, on mine, there seems to be a small surge in current when you change modes. It takes a second or two and settles a full 100lm less. Not sure why that is.
I never had this UI and then to add to the confusion he lists: 4 modes and strobe which on mine is a triple half press NOT double. I seem to have 3 modes[minus strobe] and when I double half press I am NOT sure if it gets brighter! 
Modes:L (0.1A)-M (1.5A)-H (3A)-T (5A)
double clickes strobe
Maybe I do NOT have L[0.1A]ā¦it seems to me, regardless of tint shift that I would notice 3A[H] Changing to 5A-TURBO.
NIGHTWATCH NS22 W/ 21700 TUBE
COMPARISON
U21vn XPL PDTāāāNS22 W/21700 Tubeāā-TX25C2vn DD/Single mode XPG2
Canāt wait to get mine SST20 4k and XHP 50.2 5k ā- 3 weeks and still in China I think
The Two corners are burnt,no way that is normal.
Itās normal for this emitter
No bond wires or are they hidden by the burnt look?!
What emitter is in POST #1 Photo of this thread?
Isnāt that a SST20? Or is it SST40 POSSIBLY?
Strange UI.
You can toggle between two groups of modes:
Group 1. L-M-H-T + Strobe (2 half press)
Group 2. L-M-H + T (2 half press) or Strobe (3 half press)
To switch from one group to the other one you have to make 4 very fast half press. If they are not fast enough the firmware interprets that it is a mode change, not a group change.
It is a bit difficult because the reverse switch is very hard and the speed must be high.
I noticed that at the first moment my flashlight had four modes and after playing with it there were only three. Try to do it
This is what mine looks likeā¦courtesy of djozz. He states BROKEN BOND WIRES!
OK,SIR,maybe it[SST-20] is copying off of the Oslon Black flat w/ the missing corners!
The difference is,the SST-20 looks burnt and the Oslon does NOT.
wolfdog I know you like to be super dramatic but the light stops working when the bond wires are broken. The āburntā look is just how all of these emitters look. Maukkaās review looked the same.
In fact, you can barely see the bond wires in this picture because of the dome.
Here is the bond wires from his review:
Where did you find that info?
That explains why mine is 3 half press to strobe and what appears to be 2 half press for turbo.
Thanks
@wolfdog, if your emitter is working it is perfectly fine.
The bond wires on your SST-20 look great.
Otherwise, all of the SST-20s I ordered and shipped would be broken. They all look the same to me, except when broken.
Ok,I am NOT super dramatic. I should have looked at the other thread before I questioned it.
Thanks,dinners on the table,then to test the light in 45 minutes
Thanks,