I think i was wrong about the dbl click.

contactcr wrote:

I think i was wrong about the dbl click.

I am not Totally sure that you are wrong!

Neales directions states “Double click” for strobe for my SST-20 3000K version. First the terminology is incorrect,,it is DOUBLE HALF-PRESS.

That is not right,,,Mine Triple Half presses for strobe.

I put my sunglasses on and went into a dark closet! No,,comments!…….I Double half pressed as soon as light went on or in any mode. I tried to determine if it got brighter. It seems like it did but I am not positive. I have no equipment to verify.

Maybe tonight on the trail I will be able to tell.

So,,,I either got 50 minutes of high w/ ending voltage of 3.66V W/ MY 50E………OR maybe that is turbo and my light is 3 modes[not including strobe]! I do not know!

The LED changing tints so much fools you. Also, on mine, there seems to be a small surge in current when you change modes. It takes a second or two and settles a full 100lm less. Not sure why that is.

I never had this UI and then to add to the confusion he lists: 4 modes and strobe which on mine is a triple half press NOT double. I seem to have 3 modes[minus strobe] and when I double half press I am NOT sure if it gets brighter!

Modes:L(0.1A)-M(1.5A)-H(3A)-T(5A) double clickes strobe

Maybe I do NOT have L[0.1A]…it seems to me, regardless of tint shift that I would notice 3A[H] Changing to 5A-TURBO.

NIGHTWATCH NS22 W/ 21700 TUBE

COMPARISON

U21vn XPL PDT———NS22 W/21700 Tube——-TX25C2vn DD/Single mode XPG2

Can’t wait to get mine SST20 4k and XHP 50.2 5k —- 3 weeks and still in China I think

The Two corners are burnt,,,,,,,no way that is normal.

It’s normal for this emitter

contactcr wrote:

It’s normal for this emitter

No bond wires or are they hidden by the burnt look?!

What emitter is in POST #1 Photo of this thread?

Isn’t that a SST20? Or is it SST40 POSSIBLY?

It’s the SST-40.

Check photos here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62195

Strange UI.

You can toggle between two groups of modes:

Group 1. L-M-H-T + Strobe (2 half press)

Group 2. L-M-H + T (2 half press) or Strobe (3 half press)

To switch from one group to the other one you have to make 4 very fast half press. If they are not fast enough the firmware interprets that it is a mode change, not a group change.

It is a bit difficult because the reverse switch is very hard and the speed must be high.

I noticed that at the first moment my flashlight had four modes and after playing with it there were only three. Try to do it

This is what mine looks like…courtesy of djozz. He states BROKEN BOND WIRES!

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/61751

contactcr wrote:

It’s the SST-40.

Check photos here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/62195

OK,,SIR,,,,maybe it[SST-20] is copying off of the Oslon Black flat w/ the missing corners!

The difference is,,the SST-20 looks burnt and the Oslon does NOT.

wolfdog I know you like to be super dramatic but the light stops working when the bond wires are broken. The “burnt” look is just how all of these emitters look. Maukka’s review looked the same.

In fact, you can barely see the bond wires in this picture because of the dome.

Here is the bond wires from his review:

Lfatman wrote:

Strange UI.

You can toggle between two groups of modes:

Group 1. L-M-H-T + Strobe (2 half press)

Group 2. L-M-H + T (2 half press) or Strobe (3 half press)

To switch from one group to the other one you have to make 4 very fast half press. If they are not fast enough the firmware interprets that it is a mode change, not a group change.

It is a bit difficult because the reverse switch is very hard and the speed must be high.

I noticed that at the first moment my flashlight had four modes and after playing with it there were only three. Try to do it

Where did you find that info?

That explains why mine is 3 half press to strobe and what appears to be 2 half press for turbo.

Thanks

@wolfdog, if your emitter is working it is perfectly fine.

The bond wires on your SST-20 look great.

Otherwise, all of the SST-20s I ordered and shipped would be broken. They all look the same to me, except when broken.

contactcr wrote:

wolfdog I know you like to be super dramatic but the light stops working when the bond wires are broken. The “burnt” look is just how all of these emitters look.

Thanks,,,,,,dinners on the table,,then to test the light in 45 minutes

BlueSwordM wrote:

@wolfdog, if your emitter is working it is perfectly fine.

The bond wires on your SST-20 look great.

Otherwise, all of the SST-20s I ordered and shipped would be broken. They all look the same to me, except when broken.

Thanks,,,,,,,,,,

wolfdog1226 wrote:

Lfatman wrote:

Strange UI.

You can toggle between two groups of modes:

Group 1. L-M-H-T + Strobe (2 half press)

Group 2. L-M-H + T (2 half press) or Strobe (3 half press)

To switch from one group to the other one you have to make 4 very fast half press. If they are not fast enough the firmware interprets that it is a mode change, not a group change.

It is a bit difficult because the reverse switch is very hard and the speed must be high.

I noticed that at the first moment my flashlight had four modes and after playing with it there were only three. Try to do it

Where did you find that info?

That explains why mine is 3 half press to strobe and what appears to be 2 half press for turbo.

Thanks

I discovered it by myself, playing for a long time to debug the technique of group change.

I know exactly what happened with my LED.

I jumped to conclusions which created an illusion resulting in confusion!

wolfdog1226 wrote:

I know exactly what happened with my LED.

I jumped to conclusions which created an illusion resulting in confusion!

Don’t let that $22 light get to you —— I have more truck and misc lights around

chops728 wrote:

wolfdog1226 wrote:

I know exactly what happened with my LED.

I jumped to conclusions which created an illusion resulting in confusion!

Don’t let that $22 light get to you —— I have more truck and misc lights around

It is not getting to me buddy,,,It was sold b/4 I EVEN RECEIVED IT!! Cereal_killer!!,then I get the 5000K version which is supposedly 1250 Lumens and 90Kcd!

wolfdog1226 wrote:

chops728 wrote:

wolfdog1226 wrote:

I know exactly what happened with my LED.

I jumped to conclusions which created an illusion resulting in confusion!

Don’t let that $22 light get to you —— I have more truck and misc lights around

It is not getting to me buddy,,,It was sold b/4 I EVEN RECEIVED IT!! Cereal_killer!!,then I get the 5000K version which is supposedly 1250 Lumens and 90Kcd!

How did the 3000k version pan out —-How’s the beam on the trail

chops728 wrote:

wolfdog1226 wrote:

chops728 wrote:

wolfdog1226 wrote:

I know exactly what happened with my LED.

I jumped to conclusions which created an illusion resulting in confusion!

Don’t let that $22 light get to you —— I have more truck and misc lights around

It is not getting to me buddy,,,It was sold b/4 I EVEN RECEIVED IT!! Cereal_killer!!,then I get the 5000K version which is supposedly 1250 Lumens and 90Kcd!

How did the 3000k version pan out —-How’s the beam on the trail

It has a nice beam profile.No artifacts,, Decent sized hot spot,,,,just not fond of the super warm tint!

I came home and looked at mine and your centering ring is not the same. It doesn’t even look big enough for a XP sized LED. Experimental white flat centering ring?

/conspiracy

wolfdog1226 wrote:

The Two corners are burnt,,,,,,,no way that is normal.

Got mine today, did you know you can swap the driver without having to touch the reflector or mcpcb or even take off the bezel?!
I did pull the reflector and sanded the upward facing side of the centering ring. This made the cut-off from center spot to corona sharper (made the center spot more defined) which I’m pretty happy about however doing so didn’t affect throw any measurable amount.

After that I put a 22mm TA driver in it. I was gonna add a lighted tail but it’s got the big Omten so no need to do anything back there! The boost in current raised throw from 40kcd to 60.

Also, shame on Nightwatch for grinding the markings off the drivers FET’s. It’s obvious what they are and just out of spite I’ve pulled them off and reused one on the 22mm driver I built for it and I’ll be using the other one ASAP. It’d a FET driver, what do you think you’re hiding?

Thanks for posting that . I couldn’t remember those dates.

tatasal wrote:

Neal’s store has this announcement, and geared more importantly to the newcomers to general online vendors based in China and ships from China:

_Chinese New Year holiday From January 31 to Feb.12 _

China as a nation virtually grinds to halt…only the international hotels and factories with export commitments are operating…business/most shipping is momentarily shelved until everybody goes back to work.

I understand that. The Lights[My First and this one] are shipped out of El Monte, California USA. So Chinese holiday should NOT affect that.

This is my concern,,,,I talked to DHL by phone and they told me that only a shipping label was created on Friday January 25th. In addition they said that they have ONLY 48 hours to process that in the warehouse. That time has come and gone,,,,,,,not sure what happens next as it sits in a warehouse!,,In California.

You put too much faith in the tracking info. I dont have my box anymore but im pretty sure even though the tracking shows some random zip code in CA it originated from China based on the markings. If it’s just a label being created and it doesnt get picked up in the US system for weeks i’m pretty certain it didnt actually originate here and the tracking info is just wrong..