[Optisolis/E17A/E21A] Jetbeam Jet-µ

If you go for Optisolis, better go with the 5000K one. The 4000K and below are quite similar to the E21A.

I was about to say the same thing too. But that really depends on his needs. For me, the warm Optisolis will be used for calibrated/comparator lights.

- Clemence

A bit off topic.

The more I think about a relevant host for optisolis the more I am zeroing in to meteor m43. A good thing about this host is that you can remove some or all optics and get an optimal beam profile - from mule to spot with everything in between. And 12 leds @1amp each would provide enough light for almost anything

I havent tried that, but the mcpcb in an m43 is designed in a way that leds sit between long stretches of copper which allows for some flexibility in placement AND perhaps adding many more leds in addition to the 12

In what way?

The cool Optisolis leds use a special 420nm led under the phosfor to prevent a dip in the cyan region of the spectrum, this gives them that extra bit of colour rendering. The warmer Optisolis use a conventional 450nm led because the blue/cyan part of the spectrum plays less of a role and going with the 420nm led does not help much. Therefore it does not stand out much compared to the very high CRI version of the E21A.

Ah, never knew that. Yeah I definitely want to have an Optisolis that’s violet based and not blue.

So, with anything lower than 3000K, E21A is a better option. Better invest in longer regulated runtime. To the naked eyes its extremely hard to see any difference between 3000K and 2700K Optisolis vs 3000K and 2700K (mixed) E21A. From Maukka’s test graphs there’s indeed a substantial higher CRI in color samples. They come from different phosphors mix I guess. As Djozz observed a year ago, Optisolis is the first Nichia with green phosphors, other than obviously, single color green E21A. This green phosphor can be excited by normal 450nm LED too.

- Clemence

I didn’t know that either. On these suggestions I would like to change my Jetusolis order to the 5000K. What do I need to do?

Not much difference in 3000K

In 4000K Optisolis still wins with higher blue and red. Some CRI snobs can see the difference by the eyes. Camera will spot the difference easier

5000K and 6500K, Optisolis KO E21A and any blue pump LEDs

IMHO, warm white Optisolis is a great LED alternative for premium high CRI general lighting since cost per LED is so much cheaper than E21A.

- Clemence

Sorry I must have missed it while going through the thread, but both the Optisolis and E21A models work well with nimh rechargables correct?

Correct, and that’s the only battery I recommend. Never ever use alkaleaks battery whenever possible to save your flashlights.

- Clemence

Excellent, I know some still prefer lithium primaries for AA/AAA lights so wanted to be sure.

E21A

E17A

Beam comparison. I shot under exposed (–2 stops) to show center beam better but that caused the tint over saturated

- Clemence

I consider myself an enthusiast but i’m starting to think clemence provides TOO much information about his products. Is that possible?

I think its great. All the added beamshots and tint comparisons make it alot easier to select preferred LED both for his products and any custom builds you chose to do on your own.

I have a few lights with e21a at this point with 4000k and 4500k and they are by far the best tinted and colour rendering lights I own!

but that ruins the surprise when you order from a no name company and they describe the tint as “yellow-white” or something

Those are the pictures I promised from my earlier post. This is BLF, people value research, data, and test results. unlike the other forum out there.
Do you prefer I don’t share any information instead? I think I have a problem being an enthusiast and a seller at the same time. Can’t decide which one should I be.

- Clemence

Of course I think more information is better. I’m only joking

However, it does just drive me deeper into this rabbit hole digesting all of this new information

Yes and no. I really like having the data to evaluate. However, it’s also possible to get the audiophile disease where you get lost in evaluating, and forget the real goal is to use and enjoy the product (it’s only a small percentage of audiophiles, of course, but they’re the ones who get noticed).

I’m currently thinking what I should do personally is just order each of the different emitters that potentially interests me on MCPCB’s, try them out on my work bench, and decide from that what my dream light is.

Exactly what Ive been doing. Have already tried most combinations of e21a, and just ordered a number of optisolis to combine and see.

For now it is e21a at 3000k and optisolis 5000, but looks like I’ll end up at higher cct with optisolis