I guess I've seen this before for binoculars. I got one pair with separate cup protectors and it's a nuisance, but if they were connected, and better yet, connected to the neck strap, it works well. For a flashlight, not sure it would work well connected to a lanyard maybe...
Lens cover?
I would try this
30-69MM Transparent Rifle Scope Lens Cover Flip Up Quick Spring Protection Cap Objective Lid for Airsoft Gun Caliber HT37-0072
My idea is to use a diffusion film on the cover to change the beam of a GTmini from throw to flood.
But I think DC fix is not enough. I need more a lens structure or pebbled on it.
Any ideas?
I suggested this in another thread I think DC Fix will be enough, have you tried? Every time I have used DC Fix on a thrower it totally kills the hotspot. It wont give you a super wide beam but it will blend the hotspot into the spill quite a bit.
Do you plan on putting the DC Fix over a 2nd piece of glass? It’s pretty thin. There are more thick “vinyl” feeling alternatives that may work better if you dont use two pieces of glass.
I got one of these same covers from Kaidomain for my Jaxman Z1, they are pretty cool.
Totally mind boggles me why someone would buy a light designed for throw then go out of their way to kill the throw…why not just buy a different light?
I need a dual switch light for testing all switch combos my drivers and firmware support. I’ve had a L4 laying around hardly used for ages so why not give it new life as a driver firmware testing unit. My drivers are 17mm though, so I made a specific version for the L4 with integrated E-switch. As it’s bigger I can fit more regulators on it, so I now have full constant current PWM free ramping from 0.05 amps up to theoretically as high as 8.5 amps.
New custom L4 driver:
Flashing firmware acupuncture style, only have to unscrew the head and stick’em in:
The only LED I have around that can handle up to 8.5 amps is the SST-40 so that’s what I used. So, now I finally have a test unit. I need one because testing on a bench platform is not the same as using a real light.
I believe it’s an attiny1634, he has a thread on them here
Beautiful driver MikeC, did you use a script for those vias or place them all by hand?!
I’d say I’d try to use that method (Cu ground ring with lots of vias) next time I need to size up a driver quickly but I’d never get that many vias aligned that well. That’s a piece of art!
Thanks guys! Cereal_killer is correct. I use the ATtiny1634. Drivers and firmware support off-switch, E-switch and dual-switch. Same firmware, no need to re-flash, which is why I need a dual switch light for testing so I can test it all. I have a switch configuration setting so I can change on the fly.
I haven’t tested parasitic drain with my better DMMs. I just tested with the one I have here and it’s undetectable, but I’ll test some tine during the weekend with my better DMMs. When I built 7135 and CAT4104 based drivers I got it down to 0.1uA with OTSM compatible drivers, but I need to test with my better DMMs when using these new regulators. They will have some sort of shutdown standby current, hopefully really low. Datasheet only specifies a max shutdown current of 1uA, no typical or minimum shutdown current.
To keep parasitic drain to minimum I power the digipot directly from a MCU pin, and the negative side of the voltage divider doesn’t go to ground, it also goes to a MCU pin so that I can switch off GND for the divider. On of the benefits to having a lot of pins to play with I don’t actually need the voltage divider for 1S but I use it for OTSM power off detection.
I use a script. Placing them all by hand would be horrible! I’ve deleted a few vias though, as I routed some signal paths out in the GND ring area.
Recently (like 3 weeks ago) I've modded Convoy S2+. This is one of the twin lights I want to put together. This is supposed to end up on my bike's steering bar since I'm cycling a lot. So the plan is to install 2xConvoy S2+ with striped lens (as short range lights = do not blind other drivers), a mid range one (thinking if not use Emisar D4s) and a long range (Convoy C8 SMO?) and Fireflies PL47 on head. All the lights will be 4000K, various CRI (70-95). This is what I've done: I cut off a piece of brass rod, filed, sanded, drilled holes and fit into the pill:
Then put some Arctic MX-2 paste inside to fill out remaining gaps and pushed in the piece of brass rod leading wires through.
The rest was a piece a cake. Used Luxeon V 4000K from L4P (which I love, even with not the highest possible CRI). I soldered it onto the pill with a tin paste.
Soldered wires, bridged springs and put parts together. You surely know how does the C S2+ look like so I skip the picture of host. But what's significant. Firstly I put inside just a cheap striped lens for S2 (don't remember where acquired - BG? GB? or Ali?). After a few days arrived an original Carclo Stripe lens LT-0843. I was stunned with an output difference it caused. Looks like 29% lux gain!
Cheap stripe lens:
Genuine Carclo stripe lens:
May your weekend be full of succesfull mods! :BEER: