I guess I've seen this before for binoculars. I got one pair with separate cup protectors and it's a nuisance, but if they were connected, and better yet, connected to the neck strap, it works well. For a flashlight, not sure it would work well connected to a lanyard maybe...
Lens cover?
I would try this
30-69MM Transparent Rifle Scope Lens Cover Flip Up Quick Spring Protection Cap Objective Lid for Airsoft Gun Caliber HT37-0072
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32869480658.html
My idea is to use a diffusion film on the cover to change the beam of a GTmini from throw to flood.
But I think DC fix is not enough. I need more a lens structure or pebbled on it.
Any ideas?
I suggested this in another thread I think DC Fix will be enough, have you tried? Every time I have used DC Fix on a thrower it totally kills the hotspot. It wont give you a super wide beam but it will blend the hotspot into the spill quite a bit.
No, I need the light first, then I can measure and order a cover.
Do you plan on putting the DC Fix over a 2nd piece of glass? It’s pretty thin. There are more thick “vinyl” feeling alternatives that may work better if you dont use two pieces of glass.
I got one of these same covers from Kaidomain for my Jaxman Z1, they are pretty cool.
Totally mind boggles me why someone would buy a light designed for throw then go out of their way to kill the throw…why not just buy a different light?
He’s going to put the DC Fix on a lens cover. Dual purpose!
Ah yes, so much better… make a purpose built small light large and bulky. 
However, if it was some magic magnifier than increased lumens 2% you would be all for it!
To get one single light that can do all
And small and light is in my terms 16340. For me the mini is already big.
Where you never in the situation: Yes, at home I have the right light for the job
I need a dual switch light for testing all switch combos my drivers and firmware support. I’ve had a L4 laying around hardly used for ages so why not give it new life as a driver firmware testing unit. My drivers are 17mm though, so I made a specific version for the L4 with integrated E-switch. As it’s bigger I can fit more regulators on it, so I now have full constant current PWM free ramping from 0.05 amps up to theoretically as high as 8.5 amps.
New custom L4 driver:
Flashing firmware acupuncture style, only have to unscrew the head and stick’em in:
The only LED I have around that can handle up to 8.5 amps is the SST-40 so that’s what I used. So, now I finally have a test unit. I need one because testing on a bench platform is not the same as using a real light.
those capes are handy for colour filters.
Nice Mike C! Would this work as e-switch only? How's the parasitic drain? I got lots of questions, but mainly what's the MCU?
I believe it’s an attiny1634, he has a thread on them here
Beautiful driver MikeC, did you use a script for those vias or place them all by hand?!
I’d say I’d try to use that method (Cu ground ring with lots of vias) next time I need to size up a driver quickly but I’d never get that many vias aligned that well. That’s a piece of art!
Thanks guys! Cereal_killer is correct. I use the ATtiny1634. Drivers and firmware support off-switch, E-switch and dual-switch. Same firmware, no need to re-flash, which is why I need a dual switch light for testing so I can test it all. I have a switch configuration setting so I can change on the fly.
I haven’t tested parasitic drain with my better DMMs. I just tested with the one I have here and it’s undetectable, but I’ll test some tine during the weekend with my better DMMs. When I built 7135 and CAT4104 based drivers I got it down to 0.1uA with OTSM compatible drivers, but I need to test with my better DMMs when using these new regulators. They will have some sort of shutdown standby current, hopefully really low. Datasheet only specifies a max shutdown current of 1uA, no typical or minimum shutdown current.
To keep parasitic drain to minimum I power the digipot directly from a MCU pin, and the negative side of the voltage divider doesn’t go to ground, it also goes to a MCU pin so that I can switch off GND for the divider. On of the benefits to having a lot of pins to play with 
I don’t actually need the voltage divider for 1S but I use it for OTSM power off detection.
I use a script. Placing them all by hand would be horrible! I’ve deleted a few vias though, as I routed some signal paths out in the GND ring area.
K, thanx! Might be asking you more bout this, but on the dedicated thread - I'm subscribed now.
Recently (like 3 weeks ago) I've modded Convoy S2+. This is one of the twin lights I want to put together. This is supposed to end up on my bike's steering bar since I'm cycling a lot. So the plan is to install 2xConvoy S2+ with striped lens (as short range lights = do not blind other drivers), a mid range one (thinking if not use Emisar D4s) and a long range (Convoy C8 SMO?) and Fireflies PL47 on head. All the lights will be 4000K, various CRI (70-95). This is what I've done: I cut off a piece of brass rod, filed, sanded, drilled holes and fit into the pill:
Then put some Arctic MX-2 paste inside to fill out remaining gaps and pushed in the piece of brass rod leading wires through.
The rest was a piece a cake. Used Luxeon V 4000K from L4P (which I love, even with not the highest possible CRI). I soldered it onto the pill with a tin paste.
Soldered wires, bridged springs and put parts together. You surely know how does the C S2+ look like so I skip the picture of host. But what's significant. Firstly I put inside just a cheap striped lens for S2 (don't remember where acquired - BG? GB? or Ali?). After a few days arrived an original Carclo Stripe lens LT-0843. I was stunned with an output difference it caused. Looks like 29% lux gain!
Cheap stripe lens:
Genuine Carclo stripe lens:
May your weekend be full of succesfull mods! :BEER:
Have a while more so maybe I could get you bored with another my build. Nothing really interesting.
A Jaxman X1/XHP50.2 This is bill of components:
Jaxman X1 host (not available any more, a pity)
Some on-site pics:
Resuld? Predictible - not bad performance but greenish corona is above my acceptance level. Some pics:
have the 3-LED version; do you think it’s enough to change the FET to give the flashlight a bit of sprint?
Good mods 1stein!
I find the 80CRI Cree leds very acceptable outdoors, even the yellow corona.