I think someone else suggested I try it, to remove the aura, someone that is no longer logging in and hasn’t in a while… but it works, all the flip chip technology emitters benefit from the slice and dice method. (I call it that due to the horizontal slice to remove the dome and the vertical dicing action to remove the excess phosphor)
You do it well though. Meticulous in the detail department.
Thank you for sharing, Amazing skills! What happens if you break the bond wires on the edge? Does it affect the led in any way? Will the led still work? less output? I don’t think I have brain surgeon hands that some of you were gifted with
Did you clean the silicone afterwards? If so what did you use?
Scalping XHP70.2 version of NW is an average idea. I convinced myself. This is the version from Thrunite TC20. It’s getting yellow. I’ll take measurements later.
Thanks!
I don’t know the long term affect of the broken bond wire but the 2 I broke work fine at 100mA. They aren’t putted in a light yet so I didn’t tested at higher currents. I just blowed the led with compressed air. didn’t used any cleaning material.
The way I do mine is I just take small slices with an exacto knife until the silicone is very thin. As long as the remaining silicone is as thin as possible I don’t think the surface smoothness really matters. With no bond wires to cut it is pretty hard to mess it up. So IMO there is no reason not to slice it. Then again all my lights’ LEDs are domeless (except my headlamp).
This LED sliced is definitely a potent combination of output and throw!
Hey ZozzV6 did you get a chance to measure CD. of the slice and “dice”?
With dome 226125 cd
Sliced only 355500 cd
Sliced and diced ………?
My MF02 w/xhp70.2 (sliced and diced) lexel’s driver @ 8amps only did 298,XXX CD measured at 9 meters. But my variables of measuring might differ a lot from yours.
You only can remove fully from the edges. You don’t on the dies top. You need to keep a few tenth of mm silicone on them. That yellow phosphor makes white color of beam from a blue led under it. All white leds are blue under.
Redlyne22:
No I haven’t measured cd yet. Maybe tonight. I used to measure big lights at 5, 10, 15, 20 or like GT even 25m distances. This should be good at 15 and 20m. Smaller distance can read lower numbers.
OMG! Looking back through some pictures I found where I sliced my first quad die emitter back in April of 2015! It was a Quad XHP-50 Lucky Sun D80 build…
I had two cool white and two warm white on hand, so I mixed the tint. Worked out pretty well and had an interesting look when off too! lol
It would get hot on two 18350’s, if I used 2 18650’s it would get blistering hot within about 15 seconds! Made something over 6000 lumens with the big cells as I recall. Don’t really remember the lumens on the small cells. The light is not longer assembled but I do have the copper disc with the 4 XHP-50’s on it still…
It wasn’t until after the XP-G3 flip chip technology came out that I started dicing the additional phosphor off the substrate.
Zozzv6, have you been able to run high current through yours? I sliced and diced one similar to your, cleaned it properly with surgical spirits, and put it back into my BLF GT70. It works perfectly with ramping, but on Turbo it starts burning. I immediately switch off the light and clean the black spot with surgical spirits, as the black is really on the leftover dome. It then again works on any mode less than Turbo, but what’s the point of a BLF GT70 that can’t use Turbo
I’m guessing I sliced it too close to the die. What’s my options? Slice deeper still? Completely remove the dome, has this been done?
I run turbo in my MF02S with no problem. It is fet driven so almost same as in a GT. You need to make sure nothing dirt left on silicone. It is hard to get it off completely because phosphor has rough surface and the dome material bonded in thet surface. So you always have some leftower or cut spme phosphor too which can cause blue tint shift.