comfychair-inspired quick+cheap+lazy single-sided 17DD FET-driver (poor man's nanjg92)

My results look similar and are not permanent. Though it’s not necessarily fun to have to dig back into the stuff. The texture of mine is like a hard rubber with a fine grit. I guess that should be obvious though. I use silicon carbide powder 400grt, 2000grt alumina oxide, sensors safe high temp copper permatex, a drop of silicone oil and a squirt of thermal paste just for kicks. :slight_smile:

There are a number of tricks you learn to get it to pack in just right but it’s been working well for me. Not sure how it would hold up to li’s method though…

It is 5 minutes epoxy similar to JB weld but it hardens in 5 minutes. So yes this stuff in picture is done in 5 minutes :slight_smile:
Abro steel epoxy. Permanently. No repair here like with fujik or above mentioned stuff. looks similar to this one(athough my package bought locally looks bit different):

I used all kind of epoxies and probably 2 most famous ones(uhu endfest 300 and JB Weld), but this Abro one bought me :slight_smile: Done in 5 minutes!

Edit:

How can I rework this driver to single mode only(high or turbo only)? But I want of course that reverse polarity protection works after mod. Pretty please guys…

Does anybody have working firmware?

The OCT firmware uses a different schematic for the NANJG 105C

Like this:

All mine NANJG 105C drivers have the pb1 connected to the 7135 chips.
And the OCT firmware uses pb0 for the 7135 chips…

You can compile the code for whatever pinout you need however the easiest thing to do would just be to physically jumper(short with solder) pins 5 and 6 on the attiny.

But when I short the two pins, I can’t use the 7135 for a moonlight/ low mode. I really looking for someone who have modified the firmware to work. I’m still trying to get it to work by myself by changing the firmware (and testing with trial and error because I don’t have any programming skills :p)

Also the screenshot for the minimalist driver posted by Major (in beginning of this thread) shows only half of the required code. So I can’t use that either.

So you’re trying to run it as FET+1?
Is the pinout you posted above what you’re actually using? If not can you post that?

ATTiny13A I assume? BLF A6 firmware will work for that configuration.

Yes FET+1 (with ATTiny13A :slight_smile: )
Someone else in this thread posted this drawing and it’s actually the same as the drivers I use. So I presume I need to program that the FET uses pb0 as output.

Use this code

I could only flash blf-a6-13-rmm.hex (but it also uses the wrong chip layout). The other hex files are also too big to flash for an atiny13a. When I try to compile it, I have to delete a lot of code and then it’s still 3% too big…

Maybe I can edit pilotdog68’s xintd-x3 firmware, it’s within the attiny13a size range and I don’t need to include other files…

Do you have optimization set for size (–0’s)?

Nope, don’t know anything about that…

But I experimented a bit further with the xintd-x3 firmware and I think I have solved my problem.
By changing the input at the following fields: define PWM_PIN, define ALT_PWM_PIN, define PWM_LVL, ALT_PWM_LVL. By swapping the pb0 & pb1 and again swapping OCR0A & OCR0B

Most all of our BLF firmwares require optimization settings for size.

Its a preference setting in atmel studio that effects how the code compiles. I don’t know enough to know what it actually does or explain it, just enough to know what to set it to…

Oke I will look into it. But for my regular Nanjg 105C drivers I still use the luxdrv (really easy to personalize and has everything I need).

Is it normal I only get 3,4 amps on the max setting? I used the PH4030AL FET in combination with a Sony / Murata Konion US18650VTC6 3120mAh - 30A cell. With cheap cells I only get 2,2 amp…
Also replaced the leads with some ticker ones, without any effect. Wil try a spring bypass just to be sure.

Thread resurrection needed…

Djozz and other fellow members who may know this…

Is there any way to restrict current draw to not more than 5A in mentioned diy FET driver?

No, not if you want a 5A current limit regardless of led voltage or battery type/charge state. You could add a resistor in the circuit (maybe in the form of thinner longer ledwires) but that would limit current at all modes, not just over 5A, it does not regulate.

What you hope for is current regulation and that is what the original 7135 chips on the original AK-47 driver did (3 chips for 1.05A), and for 5A you need 14 of them :open_mouth: . Similar current regulator chips that regulate more than 350mA do not exist (maybe because of overheat problems in such a small sot23 package) or are not suitable in this application.

The way to go for you may be using a different type of FET’s that can regulate the current instead of just switch on and off. Led4power’s drivers are like that but are not as cheap as these NANJG drivers. A relatively new solution that you may check out are the 5A Convoy drivers, 1.12€ 83% OFF|17Mm Driver Voor SST40 ,4 Modi 0.1% 3% 30% 100%, max Huidige Output 5000mA, Temperatuur Bescherming Management Binnen|Zaklampen| - AliExpress , they are 17mm, regulated at 5A, have 4 simple modes and memory, and have lightweight low profile components that just may survive rifle recoil pretty well. And they are cheap, 5 drivers for 16 dollar.

Thanks Djozz,

I really hoped there is a way to restrict current on this driver for certain applications like OSRAM leds cause I have hundreds of them(ak47c1) and since they have proper mode order for mine application(c1 firmware, it always starts on high mode).

While thinner wires are not suitable for mine build Resistor in a circuit sounds good but I really don’t know where to place them and what resistors should I buy? I hoped you could show that? :wink:
With FET drivers we use high current cells like INR30Q so this Djozz FET driver should be modded so it can’t pull more than 5A of current in a setup with INR30Q and Osram WF emitter. Probably with proper resistor this is doable?

Convoy drivers unfortunately does not have suitable mode order for hunting purpose low>high. And I really don’t need regulation for 1x18650 cell setup. Short burst of turbo is all I need.

For guns / rifles you need a fat rubber or even plastic ring around the battery spring, as a bump stop, like in car suspension (for the same reason)
It will prevent spring crush and PCB impact.

Yes, luminarium iaculator, get that driver from Simon, for Pete’s sake. :wink:
Doesn’t it have mode memory?

Simple spring bypass with 18AWG wire acts like a bump stop and perfectly presses flat top battery to Djozz FET driver spring(which is also bypassed with 22awg wire). Holds heavy centerfire magnum recoil without any issues.

I would order from Simon but I don’t like mode order.

And I still hope that there is some kind of resistor that can be added to this Djozz FET driver which would restrict current draw to not more than 5A with INR 30Q and OSram WF

Doesn’t it have mode memory?

A tough rubber ring around the spring moves the force from the center of the driver PCB to the rim, so it won’t bend or break.
It’s a simple mod.
You can cut a ring from rubber hose, or even garden hose or something similar.
It will also reduce the impact on the battery itself.

Thanks for rubber ring idea but in mine mode there is no impact on battery at all… Once when you put the bat it stays firmly in place.
During few years I done hundreds of them without any issue. No need for rubber :), although we really do know that proper rubber is really needed for certain applications :beer: