Emisar D4 Mods

I have two emitters XP-L HI V2 3A and two 5D. Not sure what the CRI of them are but I like the light they produce.

Can anyone explain the difference between 219s and the LH351s? Are the Samsung LEDs more efficient?

there are different Samsungs. LH351C and D. D has bigger die like XPL.

they are more efficient. But 219b high cri has the best tint + color imho.

sst20 is nice as well, but the 4000k high cri is no match in tint and color quality to 219b

1. The LH351D 90CRI is the most efficient high CRI LED, but is more geared towards flood.

2. The 219Cs are the easiest LEDs to find.

3. The 219Bs have the rosiest tint and equal color rendition. It doesn’t actually reproduce the colors the most accurately though, and is the least efficient LED here.

4. The SST-20 is the throwiest high CRI emitter, has better color rendering than the 219C and LH351D, and is the most accurate emitter in terms of color rendition.
In fact, if it had a rosy tint like the 219B, the 219B would immediately be obsolete. It looks excellent regardless, but most people here prefer rosy tints rather than pure white tints, or very slightly green.

SUCCESS!

My Emisar now runs Anduril with enabled Aux for D4. Also Blinkies have been reduced to candle + lightning storm :slight_smile:

Thanks for the tips pointing me in the right direction.

Grats! Hoping to do something with my D4.

I’ve ordered aux led boards from Lexel. Looking forward to installing them in my D4 lights when they arrive.

Hit a snag with Anduril flashing, but hope to have it ironed out and working soon.

:partying_face: :crown: :+1: :beer:

Nice work! what sort of control do you have over the Aux board? While I don’t like some blinkies, I do find the bike light blinky very handy at times. I would go for that, candle and lightning.

You can activate and deactivate the aux LEDs and you can also set them to beacon mode. The beacon timing can be configured before compiling the firmware, as well as which blinky modes you want to have (and anything else actually :D)

Pöbel I assume you patched out the parts of the code for the blinkies that you dind’t want. The strobes do not run at 100% power in Anduril am I right?

EDIT: I read the code briefly and indeed: “” full FET strobe can be a bit much… use max regulated level instead,” (Anduril code)” ;_;

These?

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sphwhtl3da0gf4rts6/samsung-electronics

Some nice work on the D4 lights going on :+1:

Crosspost from the “what did you mod today” for future reference

Tailcap in the lathe —> 15mm hole —> glued magnet (15*3mm) —> strongest magnetic attachment in my collection

Have photo of inside the tail cap?

Much nicer than my magnet job :sunglasses:

The inside looks stock, in fact the tail is 3mm thick so the magnet is flush to both sides (inside and outside).

Finally succeeded in flashing my Emisar D4 with Anduril tonight!!! :partying_face:

I then promptly configured the double-click shortcut from off to turn the light on at a lower setting (I did 51 clicks instead of the default 31). This is on my bare aluminum head / titanium body D4. I had previously installed a washer around the button making accidental activation unlikely, but now with Anduril installed even if by some chance the button does depress and ramps up it will stop before it burns a hole in my pocket.

I need to flash my other D4 lights the same way, but I think I’ll do that another night.

GREAT Job. I knew you could do it :+1:

Thanks.

Never was able to get Windows to allow AVRdude on my desktop. I installed it on my laptop and flashed from that. The instructions were about right, except that the first try AVRdude failed to find the hex file. It erased the ATiny, but couldn’t find the new file to put in its place even though I had it inside the AVRdude install directory. Fortunately, a quick edit to the command line to include the full path to the hex file did the trick.

nice!

after everything is done the whole process feels so easy, but before it felt like an endless battle - at least that what it did for me :slight_smile:

Anduril with its vast customization options is just a work of art.

Installed Lexel’s aux LED board in my D4 last night:

It was too bright for me. The blue LEDs seemed as bright as moonlight mode! I added a random resistor taken from an old driver to dim it down. This helped quite a bit.

Mods I am still contemplating for this light:

  • The random resistor I added to the aux LED circuit is wired to the aux LED board between the positive lead and the board. I’m thinking of moving this resistor to a more secure location on the driver between the negative lead and the ground pad on the 7135 chip.
  • The aux LED board is currently wired directly to positive so is always on. I need to look at that walkthrough and figure out how to enable aux LED support in the driver so the driver can control the aux LEDs.
  • I’d like to try to make a lighted switch on this D4 with one or two LEDs. The plan is to drill a hole through a bare portion of the switch cavity for the LED switch wire. Inside the switch cavity I plan to mount an LED or two plus resistors. Not sure how well this will work. Possible complications include the resistors and LEDs being felt by the finger through the switch button, which might require dremeling a cavity for them.
  • I plan to replace the black switch boot with a clear or white one so the switch light is visible. To make the new switch boot I plan to cut up a standard clicky switch boot. However, I do not know if this will be flexible enough. One concern is that I might not be able to sufficiently shape the new switch boot to provide the right tactile feel.