(prototype) the GT Mini

Just don’t agree to anything that doesn’t satisfy you. They just offer silly coupons and wait to see if you’ll escalate it.

My light had really bad paracitic drain when off, I’m talking an order or magnitude higher than it should of been! It was drawing around 1100-1200 micro amps while off. Not a new development but I just now finally got tired of it and decided to do something about it.

I removed and replaced driver components one at a time (do note I’d already deleted the unnecessary voltage divider since the tiny85 monitors cell voltage internally) till the draw went away. The culprit: C1
I’m now measuring 37uA with the aux LED off, 137uA with it on high (blue led with 5.6kohm R6). I can finally leave the tailcap not locked out again!

Also swapped to the good FET and swapped to a SST20 while it was apart. Reading 156kcd now @ 1300Lm.

You think the C1 had a crack internally which caused a small short? Maybe just defective from the start?

Is it actually possible to order a GT mini without the bezel glued? I’m getting rather sick of manufacturers that work with BLF surprising us with glued parts on the production run. Enthusiast lights should never be glued.

Lumintop, you have a lot to answer for :weary:

What is that? Glue on the threads, crappy anodizing, crappy threads, or what??

That’s blue Loctite, which makes removing the bezel a huge pain in the ass.

OK…. That’s what I thought but could not tell for sure from the pic.
I just gave up on getting mine off… it was not worth the trouble to me. :person_facepalming:
I can’t understand why they would use that much…… that is total & complete overkill if they are going to use it.
If it is a BLF light I wish they would stop using any glue or LockTite at all.
Maybe if we start voting with our wallet, they will. :wink:

mine will be here tomorow unless the storm stops ups i am so excited

That’s normal.

Here’s my glued ODF30.

They said it was glued, so they have nothing to answer for.

Hello, I just purchased a GT Mini and will receive it today.

QUESTION: Are IMR 18650s or 18350s batteries okay to use in it?

thanks!

I have a Samsung INR18650 30Q in mine, and it works just fine. I would look for documentation saying it would be OK before using two 18350s, due to the higher voltage than two CR123s.

yes high drain 18650 recommended, and 18350 will work if using the shorter tube.

Mine was glued with a bunch of thread locker too. Two strap wrenches and the bezel was off in a minute. Used naptha to clean it up.

Thanks!!! Look forward to comparing the Mini to it's bigger brother )))

liteupmynite i think the bigger will eat up the smaller :frowning:

Mine does this too. Sometimes have to click 3-5 times for it to turn off. Seems fine otherwise.
Unfortunately I don’t know where it’s from, picked it up on the Flashlight fanatics group on FB.

Many people have/had these switch problems on their GT mini, it sometimes fixes itself when you let light run very hot a few times (mine did) but some people have asked, and got, a new head for their GT mini because of the faulty switch.

Do the problems with the switches continue or have they been solved with the new models?

I think things have been resolved.