My light had really bad paracitic drain when off, I’m talking an order or magnitude higher than it should of been! It was drawing around 1100-1200 micro amps while off. Not a new development but I just now finally got tired of it and decided to do something about it.
I removed and replaced driver components one at a time (do note I’d already deleted the unnecessary voltage divider since the tiny85 monitors cell voltage internally) till the draw went away. The culprit: C1
I’m now measuring 37uA with the aux LED off, 137uA with it on high (blue led with 5.6kohm R6). I can finally leave the tailcap not locked out again!
Also swapped to the good FET and swapped to a SST20 while it was apart. Reading 156kcd now @ 1300Lm.
Is it actually possible to order a GT mini without the bezel glued? I’m getting rather sick of manufacturers that work with BLF surprising us with glued parts on the production run. Enthusiast lights should never be glued.
OK…. That’s what I thought but could not tell for sure from the pic.
I just gave up on getting mine off… it was not worth the trouble to me.
I can’t understand why they would use that much…… that is total & complete overkill if they are going to use it.
If it is a BLF light I wish they would stop using any glue or LockTite at all. Maybe if we start voting with our wallet, they will.
I have a Samsung INR18650 30Q in mine, and it works just fine. I would look for documentation saying it would be OK before using two 18350s, due to the higher voltage than two CR123s.
Mine does this too. Sometimes have to click 3-5 times for it to turn off. Seems fine otherwise.
Unfortunately I don’t know where it’s from, picked it up on the Flashlight fanatics group on FB.
Many people have/had these switch problems on their GT mini, it sometimes fixes itself when you let light run very hot a few times (mine did) but some people have asked, and got, a new head for their GT mini because of the faulty switch.