These?
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/sphwhtl3da0gf4rts6/samsung-electronics
Some nice work on the D4 lights going on
Crosspost from the âwhat did you mod todayâ for future reference
Tailcap in the lathe â> 15mm hole â> glued magnet (15*3mm) â> strongest magnetic attachment in my collection
Have photo of inside the tail cap?
Much nicer than my magnet job
The inside looks stock, in fact the tail is 3mm thick so the magnet is flush to both sides (inside and outside).
Finally succeeded in flashing my Emisar D4 with Anduril tonight!!!
I then promptly configured the double-click shortcut from off to turn the light on at a lower setting (I did 51 clicks instead of the default 31). This is on my bare aluminum head / titanium body D4. I had previously installed a washer around the button making accidental activation unlikely, but now with Anduril installed even if by some chance the button does depress and ramps up it will stop before it burns a hole in my pocket.
I need to flash my other D4 lights the same way, but I think Iâll do that another night.
GREAT Job. I knew you could do it
Thanks.
Never was able to get Windows to allow AVRdude on my desktop. I installed it on my laptop and flashed from that. The instructions were about right, except that the first try AVRdude failed to find the hex file. It erased the ATiny, but couldnât find the new file to put in its place even though I had it inside the AVRdude install directory. Fortunately, a quick edit to the command line to include the full path to the hex file did the trick.
nice!
after everything is done the whole process feels so easy, but before it felt like an endless battle - at least that what it did for me
Anduril with its vast customization options is just a work of art.
Installed Lexelâs aux LED board in my D4 last night:
It was too bright for me. The blue LEDs seemed as bright as moonlight mode! I added a random resistor taken from an old driver to dim it down. This helped quite a bit.
Mods I am still contemplating for this light:
Iâll post this here too:
Very nice.
Yeah thatâs what I used for a lighted switch on the D4, two 1206 green LEDs & two resistors, quite a difficult job mucking about with trying to get the switch right.
If you could dremmel out space for the compnents that would prob be better but youâll have a lot of experimetation with this
I actually used copper tape with the SMDs & wires soldered on and some 12mm acrylic tube to give a lighted ring effect, lot of trial & error there.
That looks nice CRX. what did you use for the new switch boot? Is your modded D4âs switch still waterproof?
Yeah, I went through quite a few iterations of switch as can be seen in the OP
I wouldnât go swimming with it but waterproof enough.
The final version has the LEDs & switch under a thin clear silicone sheet and diffuser film with a section of 14mm carbon fibre tube pressed onto it/ into the switch well then a piece of 12mm acrylic tube glued into place as well, then the black kydex switch cover was siliconed to the clear silicone sheet just under flush with the top of the inserted tubes.
A LOT of playing around with that but it is really good having the lighted switch so worth it
Nice & grippy now.
That looks great!
I like it!
That looks great.
Today I reflashed my D4 with Pobelâs aux-LED enabled Anduril. Works great!
I also added an extra random resistor between the negative led to the aux led board and the 7135 driver. This helped dim down the blue aux LEDs to a more managable level.
Modded my D4 some more. This time I added a lighted switch!
WhewwwwâŠ. what a pain! Actually burnt out something in one D4 driver during mid-assembly testing when I didnât realize the positive and negative driver wires for the main LEDs were touching when the star was not installed. Oops! I think the FETâs gone. Fortunately, I had another driver, so rebuilt it and kept on going.
The first problem I encountered was removing the finishing washer I had previously attached to this light.
I had some ideas about building my own mini-circuit board for the switch LEDs out of scrap on hand. A big complication is the D4âs switch does not sit on a board. Instead it fits in a socket in the head. The switch leads come out the bottom of the switch. I needed a board small enough to fit in the light without raising above the head much.
Here is what I started with:
And what it looked like after I worked it to shape:
The next step was to wire up the driver for the switch.
Here is what it looks like with the new lighted switch LEDs installed:
I needed a new switch boot to cover the LED. I used 1mm thick translucent high temp silicone sheet from Amazon. Thanks CRX for the tip on using Silicone sheet for this!
I then stuck the washer back onto the light around the switch with Arctic Silver Thermal Epoxy. Here is what it looks like with the washer in place (light is wrapped in tape to prevent epoxy getting on it):
Finally, to cover up the still visible switch and give it a classy feel I glued a circle of aluminum onto the center of the switch with fiberfix. Prior to gluing I used plastic activator on the silicone. I also filed the edges of the circle at an angle and roughened the underside of the circle to reduce the chance the circle might come off.
Hereâs the end result:
It took a lot of effort but Iâm quite pleased with how it came out. The switch looks and feels great and still has a distinct click. Due to the washer the switch is recessed reducing the chance of accidental activation (though not as much as the rubber boot did). The firmware is Pobelâs modified version of D4 Anduril with aux LED controls activated.
Told you it was a pain
Well done for persevering with it
Really cool now, one of only two lighted switch D4s in existence (probably)