A lot of people mix tints. Once you get a few inches away from the lens they start blending together smoothly. So no issues there.
I don’t really know about dedoming effects on tir lenses. I haven’t tried it myself. I usually convert from reflectors to tir to get a wider beam, not narrower. If dedoming reacts like in a reflector, then in theory it should give a smaller hot spot and more throw in a tir.
If an XP-G2 can handle 5 or 6 amps, then using a triple at 9A, 3A each, should be fine.
If the driver was a FET, I would be worried, but it looks like the Led4power driver is linear and can limit at 9A, so no worries.
Thanks for your answer Jason! It clarifies my major doubts! I’m still deciding on the dedoming (as I’d like a bit of throw and I don’t have/don’t want to buy XP-L HI emitters) and the led mixing .
Thanks again :+1:
Lots of good natured electronic wizards here, so I’ll ask. I got an Hitachi-koki 120V US charger, but we use 230V mains here in Oz. I am thinking of doing this hack.
I’ve opened the unit and found out that all the caps and diodes near the input are all already rated 250V or 275V except one “120E-1” transformer.
Idk, I suspect it takes universal input. Should I try and plug it into 230V mains?
You didn’t give us any info on what this charger does. 120v AC to 12v DC?
Anyway, I’m guessing the 120E-1 transformer takes 120v AC and steps it down. BD1 is clearly a bridge rectifier converting it to DC. If the transformer drops the voltage from 120v to 12v (10 to 1 reduction), then maybe you can swap it for one that does double the reduction (20 to 1). Now you will be back to 12v and the rest of the device will work normally.
Make sure power comes to the transformer first. If it goes to that ecqul capacitor first, then it will need to be changed to a higher voltage version.
I think that is a 13.15A fuse in the back. See it that is after the transformer, if not, you would need to halve it’s rating.
This is just a total guess as I’m no expert on this at all.
Sorry I forgot to mention, it is an 18V hitachi power tool battery charger. But boy am I glad I asked! Money saved will go towards torches to give away for the visually impaired charity.
What is the best driver to run 3 20mm triple sst-20 or luxeon v2’s with optics in one maglight type host host, I’ve got around 28mm-30mm tube diameter and I thought of running 6 x 14500’s in parallel (2 sets of three batteries bundled together all wired in parallel for 3.7v) is is all possible? I guess having typed that now you’ll ask me whay not just use one high drain 26650 or 32650 right? and how would I charge that battery pack I guess is another matter…
Does any one know if emisar will ever offer the d4 in cu and ti again?
Don’t care much for the d4v2
But want another 18650 light as I dropped my manker e14II on the boat ramp and dove in after it but the light cut out under the water
The normal D4V1 isn’t even in stock anymore if that’s what you’re asking about. If there’s another Ti/Cu light it will be the D4v2 or another Emisar light.
Not sure if this is the correct place to ask this, but I feel stupid to ask it outside this thread
I wanna mod a light that uses a 15mm driver, and is suitable to use 2*AA/Ni-MH cells in series.
I want to replace the driver for another one with a more suitable FW and UI, and the possibility to use 2x14500 Li-Ion batteries.
My questions are:
- which 15mm drivers are out there that will allow me to use 2x14500 Li-Ion cells in series? (with or without zener modification)
which LEDs can be driven in these circumstances? (type, single or multiple drivers)
I am really confused be some information and would like to clarify myself before making order of components to modify the light!
It’s usually best to start by seeing if anyone has already modded the particular light you want to use as a host. Then you can find out if there are triple or quad spacers already made to fit. Assuming you can’t mill your own spacer, you might have to stick with a single 6v emitter.
Is there a specific UI you want to use?
I didn’t see any 15mm 6v drivers from MTN, but Lexel might have one. That’s my main 2 sources.
That driver from Lexel, I’d need to use XHP50/70 leds with it?
The specific light in this case is the Lumintop Tool 25 that I received today and that some people are probably receiving now, or will receive soon.
So this light itself, I don’t think people have modded yet.
I would probably use only a single emitter, but not sure which one could be driven by 2 cells and the [INSERT NAME] driver.
The UI could be Bistro (in Lexel’s drivers) or guppy3drv (MTN drivers). I pointed these 2 as I know they sell 15mm drivers, but then, again, I am not sure if they will be able to work with 2*14500 cells, and which Leds will work on those conditions.
Besides this light, some of these questions are also applicable for the mod of the BlitzWolf BW-ET1 (side switch) that I intend to mod.
I’m not sure if anyone makes a Buck driver that small, so you might be limited to a 6v led.
The XHP50/70 are 6 volt, but there are others out there. I’m not too familiar with them. Maybe someone else can comment on them. (Nichia 144A is 6v)
The xhp50/50.2 does not like FET drivers. The 70/70.2 would be fine with FET.
I really don’t know what kind of drivers are available in that small size. I think that’s what you need to find out first. I’ve never built anything with such a small driver.
Maybe the driver size is similar to the earlier Tool AA. Have you checked Tool AA threads?
Hey Jason, thanks again for the replies!
Bummer that there are not small drivers for these kind of things :zipper_mouth_face:
The driver is custom shaped and has 14.3mm diameter and then some wings that make it go to 15mm.
But a shaved 15mm driver would make the job!
Then the LED pcb is also very small, like 12mm diameter, but the pill allows for something more!
I will have to explore what the host allows me to do, and seek what drivers vs Leds will fit the mod!!
Thanks again for the reply!
If anyone else has a hint on these stooooid questions of mine, please let me know
Can anyone tell me what I’m doing wrong? This is the first time I held a DMM and I can’t seem to measure current. I followed the manual to the dot but nothing is happening.
If it helps:
- I tried to set the dial to microamps and switched the red lead to the right port and it seems to work fine(as in the light lights up but can’t measure anything because it’s overloading).
