WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Turning the light (ring) ON is the same direction as unscrewing the head. Turning it Off tightens the head. Strange! :frowning:
Is the original RRT this way?

No the Original turned the Opposite way, Right Hand Threads to tighten the Head and the Ring turned to the Right for more Brightness which was the opposite direction iirc?

MascaratumB
Thank You for the Heads Up.
This light looks like it’s a Larger Diameter than the old style. With the Ring turning the other direction I Don’t know if I could get use to that very easily? My Sunwayman Rotery Lights turn to the Right for More Lumens Like the Old style JetBeam. That would take some getting use too. But it still looks Good.

The video from HKE is, confusingly, mirrored (at 0:03 you can see the writing on the light is all backwards). This means the threads are normal and the brightness is increased by turning the ring clockwise (when looking at the tail), this is the same as on the V11R.

I have an older RRT-01 that I love for its looks and magnetic control ring, as well as super low lumens mode, but I don’t like the beam tint at all. :stuck_out_tongue:

I would also be interested to know if Clemence can offer the RRT-01 with Hi CRI emitter. If cost isn’t too scary, I could go for that.

I went to illumn and tried their protected 1200mAh 18350 Keeppower

Unfortunately, they are too long and the RRT-01 will not close…
left protected 1200mAh Keepower 18350, right unprotected 1200mAh Keepower 18350 that I am using in my RRT-01:

However, Im comfortable using unprotected IMR.

.

Clemence has very reasonable prices for his modding services and LEDs.

We may see some progress from Clemence modding an RRT-01 next month. We need to wait and see if the E21a and Optisolis are compatible with the magnetic ring.

here are the issues Im aware of, that need to be assessed:
The light needs to be tested on a light meter to determine IF the magnetic ring remains stable with the E21a and or Optisolis. It IS reasonably stable with the N219b. The drift is less than 10% and not visible to the naked eye.

by stable I mean, that I dont want the lumens to keep drifting once the ring stops turning.

I test that by putting the light on my light meter, and then rotating the whole light, 180 degrees, Im not turning the dial.
you can see the variation is less than 10%, not visible in actual use

this V11r w 3000k N219c was not acceptable, the drift was too large:
ranged from 65 lumens to 124 simply by rotating the light 180 degrees.

The V11r also had a very large continuing change in brightness, after I stopped turning the ring itself.

So Im reporting 2 different factors, first, the change from repositioning the whole light by 180 degrees. Second, the fact that the lumens continue to change significantly, after turning the dial and letting go.

Other issues with the RRT-01 is that there is photographable flicker (constant current ripple), but that is not visible to my naked eye. Most Constant Current lights do some form of this: (including Olights, and on the Olight it is visible)

I tried that same test you did with my modded V11R’s jon_slider after watching your video a few weeks ago. How to Mod Sunwayman V11R or V10R Driver For More Current
My test was slightly different though. I used it stuck in my maukka lights calibrated lumen tube. At high I get about a 7 lumen spread turning it 360 degrees.
At a low setting of 24 lumens I get about a 2 lumen spread turning it 720 degrees. I did notice though that if the light had not been on and warm that the lumens did jump up from the initial setting with out touching a thing. From cold at a setting of 89 lumens the lumens jumped up slowly over the next minute or so to about 113 lumens. Once the light had operated for that minute or so it became almost stable. Seems like some of the components are changing values with temp, changing the regulated output.

thank you for sharing your test results, very helpful
which LED?
which lumen level is high mode (battery type changes this)? but in either case that is less than 5% change.

thanks for the warmup change info, thats 27, but according to HDS we dont “see” a change of less than 40
at 24 lumens the change is just 8%, Im fine with that

I dont understand your use of 360 and 720 degrees, to me that means one full turn, and two full turns… is that what you meant?:slight_smile:

the change I see is by rotating the light 180 degrees, iow, half way around… first I locate which way it wants to face to get the highest level. I believe these effects are caused by the earth magnetic field interacting with the magnetic ring.

and I believe that some LEDs with lower forward voltage might be the cause of more magnetic sensitivity… not sure

regulation is not always precise. Even HDS fluctuates by 2% on a given setting, it will climb then drop, then climb again, within that range. It is not visible to the naked eye.

what bothers me more with a magnetic light is that the lumen drift continues after I stop turning the dial. And you might notice that if the dial is turned upward, the drift continues upward. And when the dial is turned to a lower level, and released, the drift continues downward. Kind of fun, but not if I can see the change and have to keep repositioning the dial over and over. That was the problem with my 3000k 219c modded V11r, the drift would continue after I stopped touching the dial, and it was a very large amount of drift, that I could see.

With my N219b 4500k 9080 in my RRT-01 the drift is small enough that I cant see it… less than 10% at the 100 lumen range. The drift is a larger percentage at lower levels, approaching 30%, but also a smaller number of lumens.

Very few “regulated” lights, actually produce constant lumen levels, but usually the fluctuation is not visible to the naked eye.

Are these tests being done w new version or old version of the light?

Yelp, that’s what it means. I turned it completely around twice to make sure. I hold it in my finger tips and spin it while still in the tube.

LH351D 4000k 90cri

Not really a mode but on the upper level of the rotation, seems like around 500 lumens using a trustfire IMR16340 650mah (red-gold) when I tested it. I get 900 lumens at max, full rotation. Makes over a 1000 lumens with a olight 10c 16340.

That’s exactly the behavior I noticed but improved once the light had been on for awhile. I can run it max for a minute or so to warm up the light and try to test it again to make sure. In the first test a few weeks ago the drift became less after playing with it a few minutes but it did drift at first a lot. I’ll check it again to see if that does make a difference.

afaik nobody has the new version yet, my test is my original RRT-01 with led mod to n219b 4500k 9080…

moderator007 is testing a V11r w an LED mod to LH351D 4000k 90cri

thanks for all the details
no need to retest the drift for my sake
I would like you to test the greatest difference in output between 180 degree change of orientation. that is a different factor than the drift after the light stops moving (emulates after the dial stops turning), which is what you are testing so far.

Made a offer on HKEquipment’s Ebay ad for the new RRT01. Didn’t low ball the heck out of him or anything. Just trying to save a few dollars. If they accept I will have one on the way shortly. I never would have ordered one if it wasn’t for 18350 compatibility. 16340’s just don’t do it for me anymore. Got rid of all but 2 of my 16340 lights. I have a LH351 5000K emitter here waiting for it.

This thread has inspired me to dig out my old RRT001 and Mirage version of the V11R. I much prefer the RRT001, but do remember the pain in finding the 18350 cell I had didn’t fit, nor did some of my 16340’s. I resorted to the Nitecore cells, which are pretty poor. The ring on the V11R was really tight - for about 2 seconds, and now it’s far too loose.

Doubt if I’ll get the new version - would prefer if it had integral USB charging, but it’s nice to play with the old one after quite a few years. I seem to recall I bought it from Thrunite, when they had a phase selling other light brands.

thanks for trying to spend your money for our research department :wink:

the new model includes a USB battery, which you can also buy separately, Olight makes one.

I prefer a USB battery, instead of USB built into the light, because it lets me keep using the light with a spare battery, while charging the depleted one.

jon, thanks for the info on that! I don’t have stock protected 18350s so I couldn’t test one.

However, here are ome notes on the OLD versions of the RRT01 I have and the different batteries they work with or not!

The stock RRT01 works with unprotected button 16340 batteries (between 33,8mm - 34,3mm) and a protected 16340 button top battery (36,5mm, in this case a Wuben battery).
It doesn’t work with unprotected flat top 18350 batteries such as the Keepower 750mAh and Aspire 1100mAh (34,7mm and 35mm, respectively). However, it works with the CRX modded battery (flat top Keeppower with protection circuit) that has about 36,4mm.

About the triple RRT01 (that was also modded internally, in the positive contact, so that it could take flat tops) it works with all the mentioned types and sizes of batteries, button or flat top, protected or unprotected.

About the rotation tests and the changed in the values shown in the luxmeter, I’ll transcribe what I’ve talked with jon_slider some time ago when I received the CRX RRT01. They are not scientific tests, they were what they were and can, eventually, show some influence of earth magnetism in the magnetic ring of these lights:

And another test, not rotating the flashlight, but rotating myself in 4 different directions ( + ) with the flashlight on the same position over the luxmeter.

:beer:

MascaratumB
thank you for taking the time to do light meter tests of your CRX triple modded RRT-01. That information gave me confidence to risk having my RRT-01 modded to N219b 4500k 9080, and it is now my favorite light!

about magnetic direction sensitivity:
I would be very interested in tests of a single LED RRT-01, IF the LED is modded.

The test protocol I find most interesting, is to secure the RRT-01 to the light meter, and then rotate the whole light meter in quarter turns, or less, until the highest and lowest numbers are produced. Then I like to calculate percent change from lowest number to higher number. I try to use about 100 lumen ballpark for this test.

about batteries
for your stock RRT-01, you report:

I confirm the same result with my RRT-01, the 750 mAh Keepower 18350 I have does NOT work in my RRT-01. I do not have Aspire 18350, thanks for telling me they dont work in a stock RRT-01.

Im very happy that the Keepower 1200 mAh 18350 Works in my RRT-01, even though it is also a flat top :slight_smile:

I also have Olight and Fenix protected 16340 with USB charging built ink, both work fine in my RRT-01

The Olight version is a little shorter than the Fenix version. The Keepower 1200 mAh 18350 is also slightly shorter than the Fenix version.
the Protected Olight 16340 w USB is on the left:

all 3 pictured batteries work in my RRT-01

Of the protected 16340’s, I prefer the Olight version, because it also fits better (less tight fit) in my Ti and Copper Olight S Minis, and in my Olight S1 Mini’s. The Fenix version works fine in the RRT-01, because that light has more spring travel than my Olights.

Hi all,

I finally manage to check into this thread. Jon and I had a conversation about this little light earlier. I almost included one in my latest purchase to JB but earlier review of RRT01 held me back (self discharge, inefficiency, non flat regulation at max, etc…). I really like the idea because unlike most people in BLF, I hate single button UI but that’s the trend so I have to live with that. Why only one button when you can make more? Under panicking it’s completely useless. Single button works great only with single output. I prefer QWERTY over Phone portrait style keypads, it’s less work for my brain. Rotary UI keeps it fully functional with simple intuitive movement.

Just recently I work with JB but everything has been smooth and pleasant up to this day. I also like how they keep refining the same product they launched years ago. For example the tiny Jet-U launched in 2012, it’s the 3rd generation with so much better everything (except the price). I would not buy/use/sell early Jet-U for sure. The JB connection started months ago when my dentist friend asked me to get her a small high CRI AAA inspection light. Bought some Jet-U for her, installed some different E21A. Now she swears on 6500K E21A (Optisolis is too floody for her needs)

I have a few things about my built, which I think makes me not a good money maker. I only make things that I like. I have a STRONG preference for regulated runtime with any flashlight. If they can’t give me a flat curve (within 10% at reasonable duration) I simply dislike the rest of the light’s features. If its simple to fix, then I might like it, otherwise, a no go. To me, this also (partly) shows how reasonable the designed output for a given flashlight. Up to this day I only like current controlled driver be it PWM for the lower modes or not. I just can’t stand linear or DD, even if I forced myself to.

So, Jon asked me if I can make him a special RRT01 with JS style beam. I suggested him to avoid Optisolis whenever possible for the extra hassles it creates. I think it’s doable and simple (he doesn’t care much about efficiency). So the plan was to get one RRT01 XPL for him and start from there. If I like it then I’ll mass mod RRT01. Otherwise I will only make one RRT01 for Jon.

- Clemence

Thanks for posting an update Clemence. I hope the RRT-01 meets your requirements, Im extremely happy with mine.

And Im a huge fan of the E21a, it does not have to be Optisolis. Speaking of E21a lights, there is a new AAA that I just tested for prototyping… dont look here , or it might cost you money :-).

The light has a beacon mode, which I know is a weakness of yours, but I’m sure you will not like the UI, so your wallet is probably safe. :slight_smile:

Thanks Jon. It’s a little too big for me since I keychain/neckchain all of my AAAs. You’re right the UI is a big turn off for me.

- Clemence

there is no keychain connection on that Folomov, glad your wallet is safe

now back to the RRT-01, I look forward to your impressions
please dont hurry, my wallet needs time to recover :wink:

Jon_slider I ran the V11R test again in the lumen tube. The largest drift I get is 12 lumens turning the light at 500 lumens. At 8 lumens I got .2 lumens but that could have been partially from if the light moves in a different position in the lumen tube it reads slightly different. This was all tested after the light had become warm and stabilized.

When first turned on, on the high end of output a saw about a 100 lumen drift from cold start. Even in the lower end from a cold start the light will vary 30 to 40 lumens at about 100 lumen initial setting this is if I don’t even touch the light, just free standing on the first diffuser. But once the light becomes warm and I spin the light around about 180 degrees is when the largest drift occurs after warm. Turn it another 180 degrees and the drift goes back to where it was when I started. The most I saw turning it 360 degrees, was 12 lumens at 500 lumens.

I was curious about the larger drift from a cold start, so I did another test. I thought it might be the electronic components heating up on the driver causing the current to change and increasing lumens.

I turned on the light and let it warm up and stabilize in the tube. I can see when the lumen numbers become constant that way. I dialed in precisely 200 lumens and adjusted until it stabilized there. I then turned the light off and didn’t touch anything but the switch button, leaving it resting on the first diffuser for about 5 minutes to cool. Turned the light back on not touching anything but the switch. Out put started about 170 lumens and was climbing, after warm up guess where it settled at. Within .5 lumens of 200 lumens almost exactly where I had it set.