WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Are these tests being done w new version or old version of the light?

Yelp, that’s what it means. I turned it completely around twice to make sure. I hold it in my finger tips and spin it while still in the tube.

LH351D 4000k 90cri

Not really a mode but on the upper level of the rotation, seems like around 500 lumens using a trustfire IMR16340 650mah (red-gold) when I tested it. I get 900 lumens at max, full rotation. Makes over a 1000 lumens with a olight 10c 16340.

That’s exactly the behavior I noticed but improved once the light had been on for awhile. I can run it max for a minute or so to warm up the light and try to test it again to make sure. In the first test a few weeks ago the drift became less after playing with it a few minutes but it did drift at first a lot. I’ll check it again to see if that does make a difference.

afaik nobody has the new version yet, my test is my original RRT-01 with led mod to n219b 4500k 9080…

moderator007 is testing a V11r w an LED mod to LH351D 4000k 90cri

thanks for all the details
no need to retest the drift for my sake
I would like you to test the greatest difference in output between 180 degree change of orientation. that is a different factor than the drift after the light stops moving (emulates after the dial stops turning), which is what you are testing so far.

Made a offer on HKEquipment’s Ebay ad for the new RRT01. Didn’t low ball the heck out of him or anything. Just trying to save a few dollars. If they accept I will have one on the way shortly. I never would have ordered one if it wasn’t for 18350 compatibility. 16340’s just don’t do it for me anymore. Got rid of all but 2 of my 16340 lights. I have a LH351 5000K emitter here waiting for it.

This thread has inspired me to dig out my old RRT001 and Mirage version of the V11R. I much prefer the RRT001, but do remember the pain in finding the 18350 cell I had didn’t fit, nor did some of my 16340’s. I resorted to the Nitecore cells, which are pretty poor. The ring on the V11R was really tight - for about 2 seconds, and now it’s far too loose.

Doubt if I’ll get the new version - would prefer if it had integral USB charging, but it’s nice to play with the old one after quite a few years. I seem to recall I bought it from Thrunite, when they had a phase selling other light brands.

thanks for trying to spend your money for our research department :wink:

the new model includes a USB battery, which you can also buy separately, Olight makes one.

I prefer a USB battery, instead of USB built into the light, because it lets me keep using the light with a spare battery, while charging the depleted one.

jon, thanks for the info on that! I don’t have stock protected 18350s so I couldn’t test one.

However, here are ome notes on the OLD versions of the RRT01 I have and the different batteries they work with or not!

The stock RRT01 works with unprotected button 16340 batteries (between 33,8mm - 34,3mm) and a protected 16340 button top battery (36,5mm, in this case a Wuben battery).
It doesn’t work with unprotected flat top 18350 batteries such as the Keepower 750mAh and Aspire 1100mAh (34,7mm and 35mm, respectively). However, it works with the CRX modded battery (flat top Keeppower with protection circuit) that has about 36,4mm.

About the triple RRT01 (that was also modded internally, in the positive contact, so that it could take flat tops) it works with all the mentioned types and sizes of batteries, button or flat top, protected or unprotected.

About the rotation tests and the changed in the values shown in the luxmeter, I’ll transcribe what I’ve talked with jon_slider some time ago when I received the CRX RRT01. They are not scientific tests, they were what they were and can, eventually, show some influence of earth magnetism in the magnetic ring of these lights:

And another test, not rotating the flashlight, but rotating myself in 4 different directions ( + ) with the flashlight on the same position over the luxmeter.

:beer:

MascaratumB
thank you for taking the time to do light meter tests of your CRX triple modded RRT-01. That information gave me confidence to risk having my RRT-01 modded to N219b 4500k 9080, and it is now my favorite light!

about magnetic direction sensitivity:
I would be very interested in tests of a single LED RRT-01, IF the LED is modded.

The test protocol I find most interesting, is to secure the RRT-01 to the light meter, and then rotate the whole light meter in quarter turns, or less, until the highest and lowest numbers are produced. Then I like to calculate percent change from lowest number to higher number. I try to use about 100 lumen ballpark for this test.

about batteries
for your stock RRT-01, you report:

I confirm the same result with my RRT-01, the 750 mAh Keepower 18350 I have does NOT work in my RRT-01. I do not have Aspire 18350, thanks for telling me they dont work in a stock RRT-01.

Im very happy that the Keepower 1200 mAh 18350 Works in my RRT-01, even though it is also a flat top :slight_smile:

I also have Olight and Fenix protected 16340 with USB charging built ink, both work fine in my RRT-01

The Olight version is a little shorter than the Fenix version. The Keepower 1200 mAh 18350 is also slightly shorter than the Fenix version.
the Protected Olight 16340 w USB is on the left:

all 3 pictured batteries work in my RRT-01

Of the protected 16340’s, I prefer the Olight version, because it also fits better (less tight fit) in my Ti and Copper Olight S Minis, and in my Olight S1 Mini’s. The Fenix version works fine in the RRT-01, because that light has more spring travel than my Olights.

Hi all,

I finally manage to check into this thread. Jon and I had a conversation about this little light earlier. I almost included one in my latest purchase to JB but earlier review of RRT01 held me back (self discharge, inefficiency, non flat regulation at max, etc…). I really like the idea because unlike most people in BLF, I hate single button UI but that’s the trend so I have to live with that. Why only one button when you can make more? Under panicking it’s completely useless. Single button works great only with single output. I prefer QWERTY over Phone portrait style keypads, it’s less work for my brain. Rotary UI keeps it fully functional with simple intuitive movement.

Just recently I work with JB but everything has been smooth and pleasant up to this day. I also like how they keep refining the same product they launched years ago. For example the tiny Jet-U launched in 2012, it’s the 3rd generation with so much better everything (except the price). I would not buy/use/sell early Jet-U for sure. The JB connection started months ago when my dentist friend asked me to get her a small high CRI AAA inspection light. Bought some Jet-U for her, installed some different E21A. Now she swears on 6500K E21A (Optisolis is too floody for her needs)

I have a few things about my built, which I think makes me not a good money maker. I only make things that I like. I have a STRONG preference for regulated runtime with any flashlight. If they can’t give me a flat curve (within 10% at reasonable duration) I simply dislike the rest of the light’s features. If its simple to fix, then I might like it, otherwise, a no go. To me, this also (partly) shows how reasonable the designed output for a given flashlight. Up to this day I only like current controlled driver be it PWM for the lower modes or not. I just can’t stand linear or DD, even if I forced myself to.

So, Jon asked me if I can make him a special RRT01 with JS style beam. I suggested him to avoid Optisolis whenever possible for the extra hassles it creates. I think it’s doable and simple (he doesn’t care much about efficiency). So the plan was to get one RRT01 XPL for him and start from there. If I like it then I’ll mass mod RRT01. Otherwise I will only make one RRT01 for Jon.

- Clemence

Thanks for posting an update Clemence. I hope the RRT-01 meets your requirements, Im extremely happy with mine.

And Im a huge fan of the E21a, it does not have to be Optisolis. Speaking of E21a lights, there is a new AAA that I just tested for prototyping… dont look here , or it might cost you money :-).

The light has a beacon mode, which I know is a weakness of yours, but I’m sure you will not like the UI, so your wallet is probably safe. :slight_smile:

Thanks Jon. It’s a little too big for me since I keychain/neckchain all of my AAAs. You’re right the UI is a big turn off for me.

- Clemence

there is no keychain connection on that Folomov, glad your wallet is safe

now back to the RRT-01, I look forward to your impressions
please dont hurry, my wallet needs time to recover :wink:

Jon_slider I ran the V11R test again in the lumen tube. The largest drift I get is 12 lumens turning the light at 500 lumens. At 8 lumens I got .2 lumens but that could have been partially from if the light moves in a different position in the lumen tube it reads slightly different. This was all tested after the light had become warm and stabilized.

When first turned on, on the high end of output a saw about a 100 lumen drift from cold start. Even in the lower end from a cold start the light will vary 30 to 40 lumens at about 100 lumen initial setting this is if I don’t even touch the light, just free standing on the first diffuser. But once the light becomes warm and I spin the light around about 180 degrees is when the largest drift occurs after warm. Turn it another 180 degrees and the drift goes back to where it was when I started. The most I saw turning it 360 degrees, was 12 lumens at 500 lumens.

I was curious about the larger drift from a cold start, so I did another test. I thought it might be the electronic components heating up on the driver causing the current to change and increasing lumens.

I turned on the light and let it warm up and stabilize in the tube. I can see when the lumen numbers become constant that way. I dialed in precisely 200 lumens and adjusted until it stabilized there. I then turned the light off and didn’t touch anything but the switch button, leaving it resting on the first diffuser for about 5 minutes to cool. Turned the light back on not touching anything but the switch. Out put started about 170 lumens and was climbing, after warm up guess where it settled at. Within .5 lumens of 200 lumens almost exactly where I had it set.

outstanding info!
thank you for taking the time

the largest change you are reporting is 40% at the 100 lumen level, without touching the light, and the change occurs as the light warms up. That is in the visible range, but most people would not notice.

The largest drift you see is 15% from cold to warm, with a 200 lumen setting… awesome! That is well below visually noticeable change…

at the 500 lumen level, once the light is warmed up, rotating it 180 degrees only produces a 12 lumen change, which is only about 2%.

My tests also show that at the lower levels, the change in lumens from turning the light 180 degrees is larger, than at higher lumen levels. That is why I chose to use a 100 lumen target for my tests. I do see larger drift at lower levels, but I dont actually notice unless I use a light meter, when testing my RRT-01 with an N219b 4500k

I have not researched the effect of warmup time, so thanks for making me aware of that variable as well.

moving forward it might be useful to begin to tabulate the vF of the leds being modded in, for now Im just happy your LH351 4000k 90CRI is working so well.

I have a hunch that your LH351 has a lower vF than my N219b, and that the N219c has an even lower vF, but I have not confirmed these details…

my present take away from the tests, is that LEDs with lower vF drift more, but, I dont have data to confirm that… Im just happy my 219b does not have the problem I saw when I tried a 219c in a V11r

the lower vF issue is my main concern about the E21a, I hope Clemence does not find it to be a problem, otherwise, I would want to stick to 219b mods, because of the higher vF. I would not be suprised if all these vF issues could be sorted by additional changes to the resistors in the magnetic ring circuit, but I dont expect to burden Clemence with redesigning the driver… time will tell what he will discover, when he has the time to investigate an E21a mod to the new RRT-01

congrats on the High CRI upgrade :slight_smile:
enjoy your light!

Watched it a few times, not 100% sure but in that youtube clip on HKequip page it looks to me like there is a click stop at the off position and at the high position. well I hope to have mine very soon and will let you know.

here, I flipped it so the rotation of the dial is correct, to the right increases

I agree there seem to be detents at off and max, same as the older version.
This model has strobe, I like that

thanks for buying one, so I can learn from you,
I look forward to your impressions

Oh good so no pocket turn on then. Yep, I’ll let you know.

Another control ring light that will get you shot at the other forum is the Niteye Zip20, also Niteye had a few other control ring lights, not small tho - Niteye12 &15, Niteye MSA10 & MSC20, Eye30 & Eye40 - then I think it became Jetbeam stuff, RRT26 & RRT-3 etc.

The first control ring light that I can remember (and I owned one and it was on CPF) and can’t remember the name but was made by a guy that eventually disappeared with peoples $$ as they were a little buggy - you twisted the control ring 1/4 of a turn and it sprang back each time to change the levels, it was space age magic at the time somewhere around 2006/7ish I think.

Was it the same product from the same guy that rumoured to be copied irresponsibly by Niteeye? I remember CPF encouraged it’s member to boycott Niteeye. The clone was later pulled off the market. AFAIK the model looks similar to the now super expensive coolfall jewelry. Correct me it I’m wrong.

- Clemence

You are right it was coolfalls 007 light - it wasn’t so much that it was copied as everything out there is copied eventually, it was that niteye didn’t ask if they could or pay royalties to coolfall - but hey they are almost all sold out of the 1000+ made.

You said he ran with people’s money. Did you mean the original maker or Niteeye? I never knew that part.
Looks like now he (coolfall) has established with good reputation.

- Clemence