FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

Is he sure that the 5000k emitter is a L3 flux binned part?

The datasheet says that the L2501 chromacity bin is a L2 flux binned part with a chance of getting the DA tint bin, which seems good.

Thanks for the info KB & TomE.

@ TomE…. Excuse my ignorance, but what is the DA tint you mentioned?
What does the ’DA’ signify??

I dunno - maybe ask him. He first told me they were L3, then I asked for the other tint info and that's when he gave me the part #'s.

Doesn't KD sell them here: http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/LED-Emitters-or-LED-Star-on-PCB/Luminus-Leds/Luminus-SST-20-L3-DA-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter

They got a pic of the label.

Blue knows more bout this than I do, but from the SST-20 datasheet, the DA and DD tints are at or below the magical line thing...

https://download.luminus.com/datasheets/Luminus_SST-20-WxS_Datasheet.pdf

@TomE, good god you made me laugh. Magic Line thing. That’s a first :laughing:

Well, the DA tint bin is precisely what it sounds like: the color tint bin, or how the beam of the light tends to go to a certain color, being red or green, below or above the curve.

The magical line you see is, simply put, the black body line. A perfect 100CRI light source will be on this line, every time. Otherwise, it might actually drift to slight green, or slight red.

Slight red is preferred by most people since it looks more saturated.

OK, thank you Tom. :+1:

Thanks Blue!! So the ’DA’ is on the slight red side. Right??

- that about says it all about that...

@teacher, did not even recognize you initially. Thought someone else jumped in.

And yes, that means most of the LEDs will be on the slightly red side. At 5000k, you won’t be noticing it much, so it’ll pretty much be a pure white starting at 200-300 lumens rated.

Yeah…. I changed to a more neutral avatar when the real meaning of the other one was brought gently, but very effectively; to my attention. :wink:

But, moving right along…. Thank you for the info & verification. :beer:

FWIW, I put some pictures in the OP to provide a color reference. I hope it gives people a decent idea what to expect the light to look like. Basically, scroll down a bit or search for “color ref”.

I for one, REALLY like that darker gray tone.
N O I C E!!

I’m listed for qty of 2 … now I’ll commit to 1 of each emitter please.

It seems like a decent color reference, but more distinctly, it makes me crave a rainbow-anodized titanium version. :+1:

You’ll probably have to talk to Rey (WWEFANS) about that. I still don’t know how exactly he got a rainbow-splatter finish on the Ti Dawn:




Can this triple http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/LED-Emitters-or-LED-Star-on-PCB/Luminus-Leds/Luminus-SST-20-L3-DA-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter at KD fit FW3A ?

I love how this looks, especially with the frosted optics. Not sure whether to put my name down for a second one now, or wait until they’re available for general purpose.

When do I need to specify which emitter I want? Never done a group buy before :slight_smile:

Be careful with the SST-20s, I’ve tried all the currently available 3000K, 4000K and 5000K and they all have a green tint to them at low to medium levels.

I’ve noticed that on LH351D too — greenish at low levels. And low levels are about 95% of what I use. It’d be okay if the tint was significantly below BBL, so it’d be white at low levels and pinkish at higher levels… but those seem to be difficult to obtain. I’m really hoping Lumintop can follow through with a good tint bin.

However, I’ve been pretty happy with XP-L HI and Nichia 219B. And, with a frosted enough optic, also with any other Cree emitter in a neutral white “A” or “D” tint. They’re all pink-biased so they look okay at low levels.

i dont see any green on my d4s 3000k…

Same here, and it’s a shame because they look great on high and turbo.

I’ve been thinking about getting some LEE Zircon minus green filters. It’s either that or de-doming/slicing, which I hear can lower the tint but I’d be worried about screwing it up.

Funnily enough, all my XM-L and XP-L HI 4Cs (above BBL) are rosier than the majority of emitters I have which are meant to be below BBL, 219B excluded OFC!