FW3A, a TLF/BLF EDC flashlight - SST-20 available, coupon codes public

You’ll probably have to talk to Rey (WWEFANS) about that. I still don’t know how exactly he got a rainbow-splatter finish on the Ti Dawn:




Can this triple http://kaidomain.com/Flashlight-DIY-and-Tools/LED-Emitters-or-LED-Star-on-PCB/Luminus-Leds/Luminus-SST-20-L3-DA-Neutral-White-5000K-LED-Emitter at KD fit FW3A ?

I love how this looks, especially with the frosted optics. Not sure whether to put my name down for a second one now, or wait until they’re available for general purpose.

When do I need to specify which emitter I want? Never done a group buy before :slight_smile:

Be careful with the SST-20s, I’ve tried all the currently available 3000K, 4000K and 5000K and they all have a green tint to them at low to medium levels.

I’ve noticed that on LH351D too — greenish at low levels. And low levels are about 95% of what I use. It’d be okay if the tint was significantly below BBL, so it’d be white at low levels and pinkish at higher levels… but those seem to be difficult to obtain. I’m really hoping Lumintop can follow through with a good tint bin.

However, I’ve been pretty happy with XP-L HI and Nichia 219B. And, with a frosted enough optic, also with any other Cree emitter in a neutral white “A” or “D” tint. They’re all pink-biased so they look okay at low levels.

i dont see any green on my d4s 3000k…

Same here, and it’s a shame because they look great on high and turbo.

I’ve been thinking about getting some LEE Zircon minus green filters. It’s either that or de-doming/slicing, which I hear can lower the tint but I’d be worried about screwing it up.

Funnily enough, all my XM-L and XP-L HI 4Cs (above BBL) are rosier than the majority of emitters I have which are meant to be below BBL, 219B excluded OFC!

Well I’m either very unlucky in the tint lottery or I’m more sensitive to green tints.

No decision to made yet. I think they are going to make half and half of each type (if I’m remembering TK correctly). So the list is just for the total number of lights you want.

Black body locus or Planckian locus. Wikipedia if anyone wants to read about it.

Please put me done for another light. That will make 2 lights total. 1 of each emitter option.

I’ve tried the sst-20 in 6500k ,it only looks greenish if you shine it on a white wall next to XPLHI

Yesterday i finally jumped to the LH351D(4000k 90cri) bandwagon and modded my OTR U16 with one and i’m pleased with the result, i didn’t find any odd tint.
On the other hand i’m waiting for my sst-20(4000k 95cri)to arrive to replace a xp-g3 ~6000k green puke tint, hoping not to see also a green puke tint!

So for now i’m in for one LH351D in this flashlight, and i’m not forgetting that there is only other option, the XP-L HI

I have not seen that, actually. I’ll look through his posts to find it. Thanks! :slight_smile:

I think the minus green filters are a really good solution for anyone dealing with green tint on lower modes. You give up some output, but it’s reversible. I had great results on my Astrolux S43, which came with horribly green 219Cs.

His post in this thread was hard to miss.

Not sure if it’s the same tint issue but reversing the lens on my S42 removed a sickly tint from the beam and made it very nice indeed. I actually find this for all lights with AR coated lenses, i reverse them all for a much more satisfying beam.
Could be worth a test.

Reversing the AR coated lens on the S43 has no effect. Removing the lens, however, does drop the duv from 0.0045 to 0.0031 and increases the output about 5%.

Fair enough, you’d know! What is duv?

The distance from the black body line (neutral light). Positive numbers are above the BBL = greenish. Negative numbers are below = rosy/magenta.