WTB: Jetbeam RRT01 – Any place to buy it?! + [RRT01 2019 discussion]

Jon_slider I ran the V11R test again in the lumen tube. The largest drift I get is 12 lumens turning the light at 500 lumens. At 8 lumens I got .2 lumens but that could have been partially from if the light moves in a different position in the lumen tube it reads slightly different. This was all tested after the light had become warm and stabilized.

When first turned on, on the high end of output a saw about a 100 lumen drift from cold start. Even in the lower end from a cold start the light will vary 30 to 40 lumens at about 100 lumen initial setting this is if I don’t even touch the light, just free standing on the first diffuser. But once the light becomes warm and I spin the light around about 180 degrees is when the largest drift occurs after warm. Turn it another 180 degrees and the drift goes back to where it was when I started. The most I saw turning it 360 degrees, was 12 lumens at 500 lumens.

I was curious about the larger drift from a cold start, so I did another test. I thought it might be the electronic components heating up on the driver causing the current to change and increasing lumens.

I turned on the light and let it warm up and stabilize in the tube. I can see when the lumen numbers become constant that way. I dialed in precisely 200 lumens and adjusted until it stabilized there. I then turned the light off and didn’t touch anything but the switch button, leaving it resting on the first diffuser for about 5 minutes to cool. Turned the light back on not touching anything but the switch. Out put started about 170 lumens and was climbing, after warm up guess where it settled at. Within .5 lumens of 200 lumens almost exactly where I had it set.

outstanding info!
thank you for taking the time

the largest change you are reporting is 40% at the 100 lumen level, without touching the light, and the change occurs as the light warms up. That is in the visible range, but most people would not notice.

The largest drift you see is 15% from cold to warm, with a 200 lumen setting… awesome! That is well below visually noticeable change…

at the 500 lumen level, once the light is warmed up, rotating it 180 degrees only produces a 12 lumen change, which is only about 2%.

My tests also show that at the lower levels, the change in lumens from turning the light 180 degrees is larger, than at higher lumen levels. That is why I chose to use a 100 lumen target for my tests. I do see larger drift at lower levels, but I dont actually notice unless I use a light meter, when testing my RRT-01 with an N219b 4500k

I have not researched the effect of warmup time, so thanks for making me aware of that variable as well.

moving forward it might be useful to begin to tabulate the vF of the leds being modded in, for now Im just happy your LH351 4000k 90CRI is working so well.

I have a hunch that your LH351 has a lower vF than my N219b, and that the N219c has an even lower vF, but I have not confirmed these details…

my present take away from the tests, is that LEDs with lower vF drift more, but, I dont have data to confirm that… Im just happy my 219b does not have the problem I saw when I tried a 219c in a V11r

the lower vF issue is my main concern about the E21a, I hope Clemence does not find it to be a problem, otherwise, I would want to stick to 219b mods, because of the higher vF. I would not be suprised if all these vF issues could be sorted by additional changes to the resistors in the magnetic ring circuit, but I dont expect to burden Clemence with redesigning the driver… time will tell what he will discover, when he has the time to investigate an E21a mod to the new RRT-01

congrats on the High CRI upgrade :slight_smile:
enjoy your light!

Watched it a few times, not 100% sure but in that youtube clip on HKequip page it looks to me like there is a click stop at the off position and at the high position. well I hope to have mine very soon and will let you know.

here, I flipped it so the rotation of the dial is correct, to the right increases

I agree there seem to be detents at off and max, same as the older version.
This model has strobe, I like that

thanks for buying one, so I can learn from you,
I look forward to your impressions

Oh good so no pocket turn on then. Yep, I’ll let you know.

Another control ring light that will get you shot at the other forum is the Niteye Zip20, also Niteye had a few other control ring lights, not small tho - Niteye12 &15, Niteye MSA10 & MSC20, Eye30 & Eye40 - then I think it became Jetbeam stuff, RRT26 & RRT-3 etc.

The first control ring light that I can remember (and I owned one and it was on CPF) and can’t remember the name but was made by a guy that eventually disappeared with peoples $$ as they were a little buggy - you twisted the control ring 1/4 of a turn and it sprang back each time to change the levels, it was space age magic at the time somewhere around 2006/7ish I think.

Was it the same product from the same guy that rumoured to be copied irresponsibly by Niteeye? I remember CPF encouraged it’s member to boycott Niteeye. The clone was later pulled off the market. AFAIK the model looks similar to the now super expensive coolfall jewelry. Correct me it I’m wrong.

- Clemence

You are right it was coolfalls 007 light - it wasn’t so much that it was copied as everything out there is copied eventually, it was that niteye didn’t ask if they could or pay royalties to coolfall - but hey they are almost all sold out of the 1000+ made.

You said he ran with people’s money. Did you mean the original maker or Niteeye? I never knew that part.
Looks like now he (coolfall) has established with good reputation.

- Clemence

Oops no no not niteye that did a runner, it was the light with a magnetic controller ring I can’t remember the name of it - it was a one of a kind, he was making a MKII and that’s where he and the $$ disappeared. Trying to find it but couldn’t on CPF, think it’s on CPFmarket place that is now gone.

Just remembered another light I wanted but didn’t get when I could now can’t, the Sunwayman M25C Ti.

I think the light you are talking about was the Legion. Don’t remember the maker who skipped town though.

AAAAAAH! thats it I had a brain fart it was Neofab, bringing out the Legion II was when he disappeared, a few got one and most didn’t.
It’s here and here

Could he actually dead rather than ran away?

- Clemence

Well he was able to buy a nice coffin with our money :smiley:

Also seem to remember it ended up being something to do with the Darkshadow brand here

Amazing how times have changed. A 742 otf lumens custom light back then used a (MC-E) quad emitter, 3 18650’s and a large host, the Worlds brightest single led flashlight.
Now a off the shelf Wuben E05 will do 900 lumens from a single 14500 with a single emitter and is about the same size as one 18650. Olight S1R II does 1000 lumens from a 16340 making it even smaller. What will the future bring?

Thanks. I can appreciate stability being important, as a visible drift after setting the brightness would be seriously annoying. I’m guessing that the emitters are carefully chosen for the magnetic control ring interface driver so that it’s very stable. Curious to see if that means a limited emitter choice results, and if at least a couple higher CRI emitters are within that range.

With microprocessor miniaturization, there would be some physical limits that are ultimately unable to be crossed (e.g. atomic level). The progression curve on increased processing power curve has started to lessen. I’m very curious to know if a similar kind of physical threshold limit awaits LED emitters, given the visibility aspect. Heat is still a difficult limiter to master. Perhaps some other composition will be discovered that can result in an LED emitting even more light with less heat. :sushi:

It sounds odd because it’s a perfect fit for my RRT01 old version and aspire 18350 1100mAh. The battery has small side rattles when inserted in the battery tube and stop rattling when both parts are assembled. :+1:

It’s becoming more challenging for sure. I modded a Ultratac A1 running a boost driver (mtn-bst2) with a single 14500 with a xhp50.2 making right at 2000 lumens. So there is still some room left for improvement. The heat is becoming the challenging part. The electronics seem to be passing all the other obstacles. The GXB172 driver is another fine example.

the reason the flat top battery does not work is that the head of the RRT-01 has a physical reverse polarity protection, a raised white plastic ring around the positive post in the head. The ring is preventing the flat top from reaching the positive post.

A small magnet would solve the problem, to extend the flat top so it makes contact. However, I have never tried using a magnet, Ive only read about it online. Others report solving the problem with a blob of solder on the battery… never tried that either, myself.

My concerns about a magnet is that neodymium can catch fire, and that it loses magnetism when it gets hot. My solution is to buy a battery that works, the 1200mAh 18350 Keepower. Or I use 16340 cells.

No the Original turned the Opposite way, Right Hand Threads to tighten the Head and the Ring turned to the Right for more Brightness which was the opposite direction iirc?

MascaratumB
Thank You for the Heads Up.
This light looks like it’s a Larger Diameter than the old style. With the Ring turning the other direction I Don’t know if I could get use to that very easily? My Sunwayman Rotery Lights turn to the Right for More Lumens Like the Old style JetBeam. That would take some getting use too. But it still looks Good.