AAAAAAH! thats it I had a brain fart it was Neofab, bringing out the Legion II was when he disappeared, a few got one and most didn’t.
It’s here and here
Could he actually dead rather than ran away?
- Clemence
Well he was able to buy a nice coffin with our money 
Also seem to remember it ended up being something to do with the Darkshadow brand here
Amazing how times have changed. A 742 otf lumens custom light back then used a (MC-E) quad emitter, 3 18650’s and a large host, the Worlds brightest single led flashlight.
Now a off the shelf Wuben E05 will do 900 lumens from a single 14500 with a single emitter and is about the same size as one 18650. Olight S1R II does 1000 lumens from a 16340 making it even smaller. What will the future bring?
Thanks. I can appreciate stability being important, as a visible drift after setting the brightness would be seriously annoying. I’m guessing that the emitters are carefully chosen for the magnetic control ring interface driver so that it’s very stable. Curious to see if that means a limited emitter choice results, and if at least a couple higher CRI emitters are within that range.
With microprocessor miniaturization, there would be some physical limits that are ultimately unable to be crossed (e.g. atomic level). The progression curve on increased processing power curve has started to lessen. I’m very curious to know if a similar kind of physical threshold limit awaits LED emitters, given the visibility aspect. Heat is still a difficult limiter to master. Perhaps some other composition will be discovered that can result in an LED emitting even more light with less heat. 
It sounds odd because it’s a perfect fit for my RRT01 old version and aspire 18350 1100mAh. The battery has small side rattles when inserted in the battery tube and stop rattling when both parts are assembled. :+1:
It’s becoming more challenging for sure. I modded a Ultratac A1 running a boost driver (mtn-bst2) with a single 14500 with a xhp50.2 making right at 2000 lumens. So there is still some room left for improvement. The heat is becoming the challenging part. The electronics seem to be passing all the other obstacles. The GXB172 driver is another fine example.
the reason the flat top battery does not work is that the head of the RRT-01 has a physical reverse polarity protection, a raised white plastic ring around the positive post in the head. The ring is preventing the flat top from reaching the positive post.
A small magnet would solve the problem, to extend the flat top so it makes contact. However, I have never tried using a magnet, Ive only read about it online. Others report solving the problem with a blob of solder on the battery… never tried that either, myself.
My concerns about a magnet is that neodymium can catch fire, and that it loses magnetism when it gets hot. My solution is to buy a battery that works, the 1200mAh 18350 Keepower. Or I use 16340 cells.
No the Original turned the Opposite way, Right Hand Threads to tighten the Head and the Ring turned to the Right for more Brightness which was the opposite direction iirc?
MascaratumB
Thank You for the Heads Up.
This light looks like it’s a Larger Diameter than the old style. With the Ring turning the other direction I Don’t know if I could get use to that very easily? My Sunwayman Rotery Lights turn to the Right for More Lumens Like the Old style JetBeam. That would take some getting use too. But it still looks Good.
It is odd but true mate!! :weary: I tried it a lot of times and I couldn’t get the Aspire or the Keepower 750mAh to work on the old RRT01 I got from you :zipper_mouth_face:
It really has to do with this:
I believe that if I “shave” that plastic ring or if I put a small disc on the top of the batteries, it will work, but so far I couldn’t make them “light the light”!
I am using an OTR 16340 700mAh in it!
Sorry about that last post showing up So Late 
I previewed what I had typed then pressed Save, But apparently it didn’t post until Just Now?
The Light does look good and it’s Sure to have some Nice UpDated features.
the old RRT-01 and the new one are the same. The head screws on the same direction, and the dial increases brightness the same direction.
Yes if I turn the dial all the way up, it is possible to unscrew the head on an RRT-01, if it was not screwed down tight.
Yes when I turn the dial all the way down, that is the same direction that tightens the head.
It is not actually a problem. I just tighten the head, and use the dial normally.
the confusion is caused by the video that HK posted being reversed.
if you watch the video I reposted, after flipping it, (post #115) you will see that the head threads and dial turns are the same in the new model, as the old model.
The new RRT-01 showed up today. The operation direction is the same as the V11R, unscrews the same too. This one has 2 quick turns to the right and its in strobe that vary’s brightness. 3 quick turns to the right and its in sos. Simple UI. It also has detents all the way around. The detents at off and high are more resistive in motion. It’s kind of like a lock in off and high.
It experiences the same drift in the same manner as the V11R. First turn on lots of drift until warm, stable once it warms up. Turning the light once stable 360 degrees about the same as the V11R, I saw 10 to 12 lumen drift at the upper end.
In my lumen tube using a Aspire 18350 the highest I saw was about 800 lumens for just a second. Settles around 700 lumens and decreases slightly as the battery depletes.
Working on taking the light apart. More to come.
Nice! Looking forward to seeing your breakdown.
TIP: Assuming the new RRT-01 is constructed the same way as the old one, it is critical to desolder the driver wires from the star and completely remove the driver from the head of the light before twisting the two halves of the ring apart to get to the magnetic ring. If you twist the two halves of the head apart around the ring with the driver installed you will torque the driver wires and break them.
congrats on your new light!
did you just tell me that there are more than just the 2 detents at off and max, in the new RRT-01?
iow, similar to the Eye10? which btw also has the strobe…
I have an Eye10 and the detents do not produce consistent lumen levels at each notch…
now Im sad, and my wallet is happy
No real continuous variable brightness huh? This is not what I expected.
Detents all the way around, count me out then.
One of the best things was the smooth ramping. A single detent for off would have been fine.
It doesn’t really stop at the detents, its just a small catch you can feel when you turn it. If you didn’t want any detents at all, besides off and high you could sand or file them out. Their pretty small little grooves, a small ball bearing rides in the curved grove with a spring behind the ball.
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