I would like to have 10 of the 3000K SST20’s with my (50 ea.) spring order please. I’m excited. I appreciate the service you provide for us BLF members. Thank you.
I just checked your latest list and I see my SST-20 3500's still on it -- is that ok, considering I received them already?
I see I got qty 30 of the 351D 4000K's, which is fine to keep as-is because going back and re-reading your posts, your tint tastes align about perfect with mine, so I trust you you can get good ones, and I do understand from what you said before, you won't buy if they aren't good in tint and bin.
I was think'n for a moment there's lots of choice in buying the 351D's now, but the tint/bin info isn't readily available and probably not so good.
I'm in the process of swapping out the 9 219B's in my ROT66 for the SST-20 3500K's. My hot air station would not do the job of getting the 219B's off, even at 500C - needed to use a torch. Cheap, or high temp solder on DTP copper is a pain...
This is only the interest part of the sheet. There’s also a shipped/received list separate from it. You have been checked off the list already since you received them
2. Yeah. I’ve asked Digikey about this, and my Digikey rep specifically said:
Hi! Here is what I found:
1-reel(800pcs) w/bin code: F2T6Q2
4-reels(3200pcs) w/bin code: F2T4R2
5-reel and more(4000pcs+): Chromacity bin code can be specified to be manufactured at Samsung without guaranteed flux bin
So, it’s a bit problematic. The only way to get a good tint bin(T4, way below the BBL at 1A) is to order 3200pcs, and to get specific tint binning, it’s almost impossible.
The only ones we current have access to is the T6 tint bin. Good above 1A, not so good below that.
3. Have you tried using a temperature controlled hotplate? That’s how I do my reflows and component preheating. It works extremely well, and with my DIY stencil, it’s easy as pie.
- No, I don't have a temp controlled hotplate - might have to investigate getting one. I used the hot air from under the MCPCB, usually works. For driver/PCB reflows, I use a coffee mug warmer - works well, an EE friend actually gave it to me because he no longer uses it, but uses a temp controlled skillet or hotplate himself, mainly to handle bigger boards, etc.
For the coffer mug warmer, I turn it on and let it warm up a big, set the board on it and you can see the solder paste already melting, spreading, then use my hot air station at a more reasonable temp from the top while the board sits on the mug warmer.
Any recommendations and/or links appreciated for a hotplate - I'll search BLF now...