Same here, and it’s a shame because they look great on high and turbo.
I’ve been thinking about getting some LEE Zircon minus green filters. It’s either that or de-doming/slicing, which I hear can lower the tint but I’d be worried about screwing it up.
Funnily enough, all my XM-L and XP-L HI 4Cs (above BBL) are rosier than the majority of emitters I have which are meant to be below BBL, 219B excluded OFC!
Be careful with the SST-20s, I’ve tried all the currently available 3000K, 4000K and 5000K and they all have a green tint to them at low to medium levels.
i dont see any green on my d4s 3000k…
Well I’m either very unlucky in the tint lottery or I’m more sensitive to green tints.
hi ,
Checking in, it appears there is a decision to be made.
my numbers are 739, 740, 889, 890. could you make it two of each emitter? thank you. Andy
hcanning wrote:
When do I need to specify which emitter I want? Never done a group buy before
No decision to made yet. I think they are going to make half and half of each type (if I’m remembering TK correctly). So the list is just for the total number of lights you want.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Be careful with the SST-20s, I’ve tried all the currently available 3000K, 4000K and 5000K and they all have a green tint to them at low to medium levels.
i dont see any green on my d4s 3000k…
I’ve tried the sst-20 in 6500k ,it only looks greenish if you shine it on a white wall next to XPLHI
Yesterday i finally jumped to the LH351D bandwagon and modded my OTR U16 with one and i’m pleased with the result, i didn’t find any odd tint.
On the other hand i’m waiting for my sst-20(4000k 95cri)to arrive to replace a xp-g3 ~6000k green puke tint, hoping not to see also a green puke tint!
So for now i’m in for one LH351D in this flashlight, and i’m not forgetting that there is only other option, the XP-L HI
I haven’t checked these forums in a while. Just caught up with the update on the first post. Decent timing on my part lol. I’m satisfied with the emitter choices. Looking forward to seeing more after the prototypes are received. Thanks for keeping this going guys!
maukka has already received his & posted a ton of photos & info. Did you see it??
I have not seen that, actually. I’ll look through his posts to find it. Thanks!
I think the minus green filters are a really good solution for anyone dealing with green tint on lower modes. You give up some output, but it’s reversible. I had great results on my Astrolux S43, which came with horribly green 219Cs.
—
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
I haven’t checked these forums in a while. Just caught up with the update on the first post. Decent timing on my part lol. I’m satisfied with the emitter choices. Looking forward to seeing more after the prototypes are received. Thanks for keeping this going guys!
maukka has already received his & posted a ton of photos & info. Did you see it??
I have not seen that, actually. I’ll look through his posts to find it. Thanks!
I think the minus green filters are a really good solution for anyone dealing with green tint on lower modes. You give up some output, but it’s reversible. I had great results on my Astrolux S43, which came with horribly green 219Cs.
Not sure if it’s the same tint issue but reversing the lens on my S42 removed a sickly tint from the beam and made it very nice indeed. I actually find this for all lights with AR coated lenses, i reverse them all for a much more satisfying beam.
Could be worth a test.
Not sure if it’s the same tint issue but reversing the lens on my S42 removed a sickly tint from the beam and made it very nice indeed. I actually find this for all lights with AR coated lenses, i reverse them all for a much more satisfying beam.
Could be worth a test.
Reversing the AR coated lens on the S43 has no effect. Removing the lens, however, does drop the duv from 0.0045 to 0.0031 and increases the output about 5%.
Reversing the AR coated lens on the S43 has no effect. Removing the lens, however, does drop the duv from 0.0045 to 0.0031 and increases the output about 5%.
Not sure if it’s the same tint issue but reversing the lens on my S42 removed a sickly tint from the beam and made it very nice indeed. I actually find this for all lights with AR coated lenses, i reverse them all for a much more satisfying beam.
Could be worth a test.
Switching from an AR coated lens to a plain one can reduce the yellow and vice versa. It’s an easy way to shift the tint a little bit. All the AR coated lens I’ve seen were coated on both sides so flipping it does nothing. Maybe your S42 lens is only coated on one side?
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
@JonnyUtah, I will be getting mine with the LH351D, for 3 reasons:
1. I like high CRI lights. They make every color pop.
2. I prefer 4000k-4500k for indoor use.
3. It’s cheaper than the XP-L HI, and since the LH351D 90CRI has about the same forward voltage as the SST-20, I’ll swap one LH351D for an SST-20 3000k, which will work fine and make the beam rosier.
I know this has been asked before, but can’t find the answer. When the light is in muggle mode, is there a memory function, or does it always ramp from its lowest setting?
I know this has been asked before, but can’t find the answer. When the light is in muggle mode, is there a memory function, or does it always ramp from its lowest setting?
Clicking to turn it on goes to the last-ramped level. Holding to turn it on starts at the bottom of the ramp.
Same here, and it’s a shame because they look great on high and turbo.
I’ve been thinking about getting some LEE Zircon minus green filters. It’s either that or de-doming/slicing, which I hear can lower the tint but I’d be worried about screwing it up.
Funnily enough, all my XM-L and XP-L HI 4Cs (above BBL) are rosier than the majority of emitters I have which are meant to be below BBL, 219B excluded OFC!
Well I’m either very unlucky in the tint lottery or I’m more sensitive to green tints.
No decision to made yet. I think they are going to make half and half of each type (if I’m remembering TK correctly). So the list is just for the total number of lights you want.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Black body locus or Planckian locus. Wikipedia if anyone wants to read about it.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Please put me done for another light. That will make 2 lights total. 1 of each emitter option.
I’ve tried the sst-20 in 6500k ,it only looks greenish if you shine it on a white wall next to XPLHI
Yesterday i finally jumped to the LH351D bandwagon and modded my OTR U16 with one and i’m pleased with the result, i didn’t find any odd tint.
On the other hand i’m waiting for my sst-20(4000k 95cri)to arrive to replace a xp-g3 ~6000k green puke tint, hoping not to see also a green puke tint!
So for now i’m in for one LH351D in this flashlight, and i’m not forgetting that there is only other option, the XP-L HI
I have not seen that, actually. I’ll look through his posts to find it. Thanks!
I think the minus green filters are a really good solution for anyone dealing with green tint on lower modes. You give up some output, but it’s reversible. I had great results on my Astrolux S43, which came with horribly green 219Cs.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
His post in this thread was hard to miss.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1452331#comment-1452331
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Not sure if it’s the same tint issue but reversing the lens on my S42 removed a sickly tint from the beam and made it very nice indeed. I actually find this for all lights with AR coated lenses, i reverse them all for a much more satisfying beam.
Could be worth a test.
Reversing the AR coated lens on the S43 has no effect. Removing the lens, however, does drop the duv from 0.0045 to 0.0031 and increases the output about 5%.
Fair enough, you’d know! What is duv?
The distance from the black body line (neutral light). Positive numbers are above the BBL = greenish. Negative numbers are below = rosy/magenta.
Got it, thanks
Where do I order the FW3A flashlight
You can’t order it yet. You can say how many you want in this thread, and when they’re available, you’ll get a notification.
Ceilingbounce – flashlight testing and runtime graphs for Android
Here is the link to maukka’s review thread….. TLF/BLF/Lumintop FW3A review (18650, 3x XP-L HI cool white)
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
I would like to buy 2 please
Thanks!
interested in one for sure, maybe 2 or 3 (friends)
The link to his review is already there. That’s why I didn’t post both. No biggie, though.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Switching from an AR coated lens to a plain one can reduce the yellow and vice versa. It’s an easy way to shift the tint a little bit. All the AR coated lens I’ve seen were coated on both sides so flipping it does nothing. Maybe your S42 lens is only coated on one side?
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Can’t have it in to many places though… makes it easy to find.
You never know how a horse will pull until you hook him up to a heavy load./"Bear" Bryant
.................................. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" ...................................
Texas Lumens Flashlights / M4D M4X Deals : sign up - save $$$$
Rudeness Level _ mΩ _ {width:70%} _ LightWiki _ LED Tint Chart
Xlamp size chart _ BatteryU _ Flashaholic? Need Professional Help??? TheOriginal _ TAB _ LightSearch _ BatterySearch _ 14500's _ DiCal
Just curious, to anyone getting just one of these which led will you be getting and why?
@JonnyUtah, I will be getting mine with the LH351D, for 3 reasons:
1. I like high CRI lights. They make every color pop.
2. I prefer 4000k-4500k for indoor use.
3. It’s cheaper than the XP-L HI, and since the LH351D 90CRI has about the same forward voltage as the SST-20, I’ll swap one LH351D for an SST-20 3000k, which will work fine and make the beam rosier.
My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547
I know this has been asked before, but can’t find the answer. When the light is in muggle mode, is there a memory function, or does it always ramp from its lowest setting?
Clicking to turn it on goes to the last-ramped level. Holding to turn it on starts at the bottom of the ramp.
Please update my quantity to two pieces, one of each emitter.
Thanks.
I’m interested for one. Thanks.
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