Second Generation Silver Plated High Current Beryllium Copper Springs and 95+CRI SST20!

@Led4Power, I’ve found the error, and I’ve emailed Richard about it.

Apparently, Richard actually put in the same sentence from the Intl Outdoor BeCu spring and put it in the listing.

He meant:

This spring starts out at ~11mm, but after a few compression cycles the spring will remain at ~8,5mm.

I would like to have 10 of the 3000K SST20’s with my (50 ea.) spring order please. I’m excited. I appreciate the service you provide for us BLF members. Thank you.

No problem.

The list has been updated:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18SyWGP08EpK5OOcv1vZbLokQGv1KojNW04DGz_ywSbQ/edit?usp=sharing

BTW, the small nickel plated BeCu spring is now available at MTN Electronics!

I just checked your latest list and I see my SST-20 3500's still on it -- is that ok, considering I received them already?

I see I got qty 30 of the 351D 4000K's, which is fine to keep as-is because going back and re-reading your posts, your tint tastes align about perfect with mine, so I trust you you can get good ones, and I do understand from what you said before, you won't buy if they aren't good in tint and bin.

I was think'n for a moment there's lots of choice in buying the 351D's now, but the tint/bin info isn't readily available and probably not so good.

I'm in the process of swapping out the 9 219B's in my ROT66 for the SST-20 3500K's. My hot air station would not do the job of getting the 219B's off, even at 500C - needed to use a torch. Cheap, or high temp solder on DTP copper is a pain...

1. Yes it’s ok.

This is only the interest part of the sheet. There’s also a shipped/received list separate from it. You have been checked off the list already since you received them :slight_smile:

2. Yeah. I’ve asked Digikey about this, and my Digikey rep specifically said:

Hi! Here is what I found:

1-reel(800pcs) w/bin code: F2T6Q2

4-reels(3200pcs) w/bin code: F2T4R2

5-reel and more(4000pcs+): Chromacity bin code can be specified to be manufactured at Samsung without guaranteed flux bin

So, it’s a bit problematic. The only way to get a good tint bin(T4, way below the BBL at 1A) is to order 3200pcs, and to get specific tint binning, it’s almost impossible.
The only ones we current have access to is the T6 tint bin. Good above 1A, not so good below that.

3. Have you tried using a temperature controlled hotplate? That’s how I do my reflows and component preheating. It works extremely well, and with my DIY stencil, it’s easy as pie.

- all good bout the LED's

- No, I don't have a temp controlled hotplate - might have to investigate getting one. I used the hot air from under the MCPCB, usually works. For driver/PCB reflows, I use a coffee mug warmer - works well, an EE friend actually gave it to me because he no longer uses it, but uses a temp controlled skillet or hotplate himself, mainly to handle bigger boards, etc.

For the coffer mug warmer, I turn it on and let it warm up a big, set the board on it and you can see the solder paste already melting, spreading, then use my hot air station at a more reasonable temp from the top while the board sits on the mug warmer.

Any recommendations and/or links appreciated for a hotplate - I'll search BLF now...

@BlueSwordM Just checking if you got my pm?

Ok, this looks bout perfect maybe: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07456SPMF/ref=psdc_13838451_t1_B01LE0PD5Q?th=1

Reasonably priced, good rating, says it's a consistent heat - no cold spots, etc.

@hodor, I’ll remove you, don’t worry.

@TomE, here’s a pic of the hotplate I use.

Thanks. That hotplate’s seen some action.

Yep. That’s a relatively recent botch on my part though.

The light brown/orange stuff was some flux from experimentation trying to solder my springs with a hotplate. Ended up buying a heatgun after that.

The dark brown stuff is metallic copper sludge remnants(Cu3+), an oxide. I literally can’t remove it…

@TomE, try to visit some universities/colleges.

I actually found mine at my college last year, and it’s been so helpful ever since.

If you want some good hotplates, I can help you out.

Here’s a cheap one, and small:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UYUE-110-220-V-Mobilephone-Built-in-Pump-Vacuum-Metal-Body-Glass-LCD-Screen-Separator-Machine/32801227476.html

A larger one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UYUE-946C-110-220V-850W-5-5-inch-Electronic-Hot-Plate-Preheat-Preheating-Station-200x200mm-for/32800325561.html

BlueSwordM: Please could you add 10no SST-20 4k & 10no LH351D 4k, in addition to the springs on line 19 of the s/sheet?

No problem Rusty :slight_smile:

The list has been updated:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18SyWGP08EpK5OOcv1vZbLokQGv1KojNW04DGz_ywSbQ/edit?usp=sharing

Hhhmm. Guess the 100x100 size would be good enough to do least a few 17 mm drivers at a time, and can handle the biggest drivers or MCPCB's. The shipping cost is big though. I like they can go up to 200C, better than 212F (100C) max of the burners.

I have this hotplate https://www.aliexpress.com/item/UYUE-946-1010-LED-Display-Preheating-Platform-for-Mobile-Phone-Repair-220V-110V/32954192636.html

Good price w/shipping, not much info on it - do you know the max temp? Hoping for 200C or better.

Found other listings that say 50-350 or 50-400 -- that's good, assuming in C!

I have used it at around 200-220C but I think the max temp is 400C.
In a few hours, when I return to my home I check it.

So how do you like that hotplate? It looks very small and convenient, I almost bought one. What time does it take to reach the set temperature?