If only there was an option to have my FW3A made with those colours :heart_eyes:
Since its no longer āstraight off the latheā itād be incredible to have a colourful option :innocent:
That rey light is a 100$ or something right? i prefer the cleaner look on the fw3a and since its under 40$ i dont complain.
Wasnt complaining just making chit chat, I think I mentioned it would be incredible to have an option and I didnāt say free :disguised_face:
iknow no problem, would be fun see such color options for those that want, probably advanced process coloring the light like that one.
All you need is a box of crayons 
or just leave in on the floor in a room that my misus is decorating 
The LH351D 90CRI actually has about the same forward voltage as the SST-20 actually.
My daughter is two so the crayons are HERS ONLY :person_facepalming:
Iāve been surfing the forum for a bit. This is my first post.
I just received, and love, the recent delivery of 2x BLF A6 (black/clear) from BG. Seeing this thread and the new knowledge Iāve gleaned from this forum, I have to get in on this GB! Put me down for one (XPL-HI), please. #1887
Heck, Iām still waiting for the slow canoe from China (FT shipper) thatās carrying my 2x Convoy S2+ (black/clear).
Happy to be here. Iāll post more soon (still in learn mode).
Welcome to BLF! Happy to see you here.
Youāll be included in the next interest list update.
Always in learn mode. Learn mode is life.
Welcome to BLF Dougiestyle, enjoy your stay!! . 
You can change the colour of Ti with voltage.
Some of the Rey pattern look like if they used a flexible PCB with a pattern, wraped it arround the tube and then applyed different voltages for different colors.
Or you have resistors on the flex PCB to get automatically the different voltages.
Maybe they work with one voltage for the body color and than they do the pattern.
Heat works also
Other Ti parts I see look if someone wraped a heated wire around it.
But this are only guesses.
Yeah, hereās a rough colour guide to voltage effect: (Borrowing TKs picture)
Thereās instruction videos on how to do it.
Looks like the Dawn sections were submerged separately for a base colour then āpaintedā.
You can submerge the Ti or apply the electrodes to a painting implement and kinda paint different colours on, cool.
I did this light with heat:
But, we would need a titanium version for this of course 
āTitanium anodize is an electrochemical process that varies the mass of the oxide layer that naturally occurs on the titanium base metal. By varying this mass using different voltages, a wide range of unique colors can be produced without the use of dyes or harsh brighteners, leaving the chemistry and structure of the substrate unchanged.ā
Your probably right joechina about using a pattern. One way to get the same effect is to use a small sponge soaked in electrolyte on your negative lead after first doing a base colorā¦ but this method would be much to labor intensive & slow for mass production.
As CRX said, Titanium can also be heat coloredā¦ but that is not as durable as anodizing. And I donāt think the splash effect could be achieved with heat.
.
You can stack colors. The Rey lamp has blue, brown, purple as base = low voltage.
Ontop you can apply yellow and red with higher voltage.
/\ Exactlyā¦
You can achieve various base colors by varying immersion times and/or voltage.
And then come back with higher voltages in the āsplash stageāā¦ as you said.
And 6 months later you can do it all over again as it will gradually turn back to the natural Ti color with even the slightest wear and tear. 
So a different design every so oftenā¦
This just gets better & better
Itāll be like Christmas twice a year with a new design āevery 6 monthsā.
I see no downsideā¦ā¦
Thatās why I donāt think I should actually use it. Itās pretty, but I donāt trust it to stay that way if it gets used. If itās anodized like I think it is, the finish wonāt be very durable.
The FW3A gets used a lot though ā more than any other light I have.