TA?
Thanks for the test. I’m looking forward to the day a nice tint bin is available for this emitter.
In case anyone’s interested, led4power has it in FC1 bin.
I have some of these FC1 and unfortunately the hulk-factor is strong with this one. With high currents they are fine, but low currents are terrible
Every SST I’ve tried has some hulk in them 
My SST-20s(FB4) also have some hulk factor at lower currents, and at higher currents the beam is noticeably yellow through the Carclo 10507. I feel like 319A gives a cleaner light and 219C is only slightly green?
the 3000K and 3500K aren’t green but they are slightly yellow sometimes and quite a bit lower flux bin
Higher duv is green on higher CCTs and yellow on lower CCTs. Same thing.
what would the ugly child of 3000k + 4000k, both slightly high duv look like?
But seriously, it could be nicely ending up on top of the BBL 
Something like this? :laughing:
I guess I’ll have to try and see it myself
I wonder how came this emitter was so highly rated initially. Did worse batches hit the market? Or did we not understand it enough?
Does dedoming improve tint significantly? I ask partially because I’ve seen a mention of SFT-20-W on Luminus website and in several other places….this would be SST-20 but flat from the factory.
It might become better.
I think the negative comments on the SST-20 are in comparison to other emitters that have GREAT tint. When compared to other Cree emitters or recent 219C 5000K it is still pretty nice.
I think I have lights with 3000K 3500K and 4000K. I could try mixing them by just shining on a wall but problem is they are different output and reflector/tir.
If I recall the 3500K looks fairly good on its own (from Mouser / BlueSword) so if you haven’t purchased emitters yet I would suggest trying that over buying 2 emitters you know you dont like.
Shaving the dome off with a razor (not a very clean job), the tint got noticeably better.
Any beamshots? I’m tempted to do some slicing and dicing.
Also is there somewhere I can read up on how to interpret these charts? The only things I know are the numbers in the top right 
Could you please append here a non-sacrificial output test of the razor-dedomed emitter, maukka? It would provide nice information regarding the potential output loss versus domed emitter.
I second this, if it’s not too much effort. My triple had a better tint after shaving but it took a big output loss. That’s the thing with this LED, it’s throwy without dedoming so shaving the LED just to fix the tint is not a great trade off.
I lose about 30% output slicing the dome at the bond wire height, with no increase in throw but a noticeably rosier tint. Increasing the intensity requires trimming the dome around the die and carefully slicing as close as possible to the phosphor while avoiding the bond wires. The stock 3500K SST-20s I’m using get about 600m throw in a D1S/GT mini, which I was able to increase to 685m with careful trimming. It’s not pretty, but it works, and it could probably be increased further. This is the best option for a high CRI thrower right now.
30%? Ouch. I guess it will be better using a minus green filter to correct tint as there will be less risk? Do they decrease throw/intensity at all?
What is it about slicing that makes the tint rosier?
Do different depths of slicing have different effects, i.e. do deep slices, as close to the phosphor as possible, result in the rosiest tint, with the best increase in throw but at the expense of the biggest sacrifice in output and vice versa?